Jacking - Opinions/Facts/Observations
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Jacking - Opinions/Facts/Observations
I have followed a lot of threads on the subject and I am interested in your opinions on the following observations. 1) With the primary recomended locations on the suspension castings, Is lifting the car from the frame corners's (puck locations) a good idea? Are those locations only good for a simultanious lift, or jackstands after a center lift? Do you think there is a chance you would twist the frame if you did only one corner from the puck location?
2) Using a piece of wood to span the recomended front casting secondary locations. For those using that, doesn't the wood deflect and therefore transfer the load to the center of the casting? Has anyone found a rectangular pipe heavy enough to withstand the 1600 (or so) pounds without deflecting? Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
2) Using a piece of wood to span the recomended front casting secondary locations. For those using that, doesn't the wood deflect and therefore transfer the load to the center of the casting? Has anyone found a rectangular pipe heavy enough to withstand the 1600 (or so) pounds without deflecting? Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 7,457
Likes: 144
From: NC
I can tell you what I have done without issue. When changing rims/tires, there was no issue with just hitting the one jack point for each of the fronts. I raised the car just enough to get the wheel off. Did the same for the other front wheel. For the rears, I just stuck a board between the jack pad and the center crossmember is the rear.
In addition, when swapping exhausts, I put the front tires up on race ramps. For the rears, I jacked up the rear as mentioned above, put jacking pucks under the proper rear locations, and then jack stands under the pucks. Lowered the cars weight onto the stands/pucks and it worked fine as well.
In addition, when swapping exhausts, I put the front tires up on race ramps. For the rears, I jacked up the rear as mentioned above, put jacking pucks under the proper rear locations, and then jack stands under the pucks. Lowered the cars weight onto the stands/pucks and it worked fine as well.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 12,438
Likes: 919
From: CONCORD NC
a 3/4" piece of wood under the frame rail is great, as over time, jacking can "squash" the bottom of the frame if you dont use something to distribute the load. This is only for those of us doing constant jack etc, however.
You can jack under any part of the frame or subframes safely, imho.
You can jack under any part of the frame or subframes safely, imho.
