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Your set up now will get you 375 to 385 rwhp from what others have shown with intake,full exhaust and tune.You need a mild cam to get around 400 to 410rwhp.
I've seen 800rwhp cars run 13's all day long and 340rwhp cars break into the low 11's... its all driver, experience, and setup...I get a little offended when a dynometer is also showing ET's.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
St. Jude donor in memory of jpee '14
Originally Posted by 5.0_CJ
I've seen 800rwhp cars run 13's all day long and 340rwhp cars break into the low 11's... its all driver, experience, and setup...I get a little offended when a dynometer is also showing ET's.
Yup, see it at the track all the time! Its one thing to make the horsepower and quite another to get it to the ground. Hopefully, Dyno Dons car will run low 11's but we will have to wait till spring, good luck
Comp Cam (.228/.232,.588/.595, 114lsa)
Dynatech LT headers w/ highflow cats & x-pipe
Corsa sport exhaust
Halltech Stinger & CAI
12" PS2's (probably being replaced with DR's for the track)
I went to the track for the first time ever this past summer with just the headers and exhaust, on stock tires. After 10+ runs my best time was a 2.0 60', 12.9 sec @ 108 mph.
With unlimited traction any car can run 11's. But I don't see a stock IRS C6 getting anything better than a 1.6XX 60' time without breaking something...
With my new mods I am making in the 410-420 RWHP range. I am praying for an 11.5 best run next time at the track... maybe I'll even bring a pro-driver along to see what the car is fully capable of... of course, by next season I will probably be spraying a 100-shot as well...
It's seems easy on paper.BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.first of all...to achieve the rpm needed.you need a high stahl converter.around 2800--3000.also IMPOSSIBLE.without some kind of traction.I have a C6 that spins the tires in low gear out of the gate,.bone stock..13.05@109 MPH........
Well.....Recently, I spoke to an instructor at the GM Technical center at Carlisle, Pa. who told me there are alot of mis conceptions about ignition timing when it comes to computerized vehicles. From what he tells me, the only way to know your actual timing is to log the runs with a computer or scanner...People talk about ignition timing like we are back in the old days with distributors....Wherever you set initial timing is where it is fixed....Also, add whatever centrifical advance you like with weights and springs....and that's what it is..fixed..dosen't change.
However, in the case of the LS1 computer, the Timing tables that everyone talks about are somewhat misleading. These tables are not absolute timing values like most people think, but they are actually just upper limits...or optimal timing...People on the forum go around asking each other what timing they are running.....and that is a meaningless question to answer without referencing at least 10 other tables in the tune.... Timing is specific to each and every vehicle, tune, software, and tuner with a multitude of factors each effecting the computers decision to apply a final timing value to the coils. With computers, it is not possible to say "what's your timing?" The only person who can answer that is the guy who is logging the vehicle while he is driving it.....and it's always changing.
Dyno Dons answer should be.... "OH my timing, I have no idea..." Which is what your answer should be, unless you have a Laptop on the passenger seat.
Well.....Recently, I spoke to an instructor at the GM Technical center at Carlisle, Pa. who told me there are alot of mis conceptions about ignition timing when it comes to computerized vehicles. From what he tells me, the only way to know your actual timing is to log the runs with a computer or scanner...People talk about ignition timing like we are back in the old days with distributors....Wherever you set initial timing is where it is fixed....Also, add whatever centrifical advance you like with weights and springs....and that's what it is..fixed..dosen't change.
However, in the case of the LS1 computer, the Timing tables that everyone talks about are somewhat misleading. These tables are not absolute timing values like most people think, but they are actually just upper limits...or optimal timing...People on the forum go around asking each other what timing they are running.....and that is a meaningless question to answer without referencing at least 10 other tables in the tune.... Timing is specific to each and every vehicle, tune, software, and tuner with a multitude of factors each effecting the computers decision to apply a final timing value to the coils. With computers, it is not possible to say "what's your timing?" The only person who can answer that is the guy who is logging the vehicle while he is driving it.....and it's always changing.
Dyno Dons answer should be.... "OH my timing, I have no idea..." Which is what your answer should be, unless you have a Laptop on the passenger seat.
Hope this helps...
FJB said it all.The only acurate thing I can say is its more than I started with
None of the tables in the PCM are absolute, anyone who's worked with them knows that. Lots of modifiers are used everywhere. Honestly, I can't remember anyone else ever mentioning old fashioned "initial timing" in the C6 forum before today.
Your set up now will get you 375 to 385 rwhp from what others have shown with intake,full exhaust and tune.You need a mild cam to get around 400 to 410rwhp.
I think you might have overlooked Dyno Don's rear Axle ratio.....
We are quite sure Don Recieved the first set of 4.10's in a non ZO6 C6....
Most guys think of engine mods effecting RWHP only....Stop right there!
Just like a torque converter....the 4.10's multiply the HP coming from the transmission tailshaft and put even more to the ground...
Most people don't realize this. Our shop does a trmendous amount of rear ratio changes and the results are always amazing.....
Also, from a tuning standpoint, you can be much more aggressive with tuning because with a higher ratio there is less load on the engine...
Things not to overlook when comparing his engine mods to others...Don's got something big...and it ain't under the hood!
Since when does going to 4.10's multiply HP? Dyno back to back and you'll see you'll lose HP on the dyno. The only thing that may increase is torque. New math I guess.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
4:10 is traditionally too much gear for the 1/4 mile. Most of the big boys run 3:42 rear or at the most 3:73 which is usually considered the best street/ strip gear. 4:10s are very good for breaking traction but might cause some issues on the street. I guess we shall see when Don takes this monster to the track. My guess stands 12.5/12.1.
4:10 is traditionally too much gear for the 1/4 mile. Most of the big boys run 3:42 rear or at the most 3:73 which is usually considered the best street/ strip gear. 4:10s are very good for breaking traction but might cause some issues on the street. I guess we shall see when Don takes this monster to the track. My guess stands 12.5/12.1.
Cajun
Cartek ran a 3.90 in their test car with the z51 transmission. All motor and in the 10's. 450-460rwhp?...before the turbos
Anyway, why all the hostility toward a guy with no track experience that was just enthusiastic about a great car and how good it runs with some mods he did? Some people act like it was a challenge to their manhood. If you want to straighten the guy out about how hard low 11's are to run then just say to him what the deal is without insulting the guy. The fact is that if you do run low 11's, you probably don't have any real handling worth talking about with 20 lbs of air in your rear street et's and no front sway bar on you bouncing 90/10 shock set-up. Get real and back off already.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Dec 11, 2005 at 11:39 PM.
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