I keep getting a check engine light and was wondering whats others who had this do to fix the issue. Ithink raising the idle may help cool them by getting more air through. Any tuning issues help?

 

Knock on wood but I have had no codes or check anything after about 1,000 miles.

 

hey whatever happened to the pissing cometition between headers with LG and Kooks. Did none of them take you up on it?

 

Most of the CELs from Kooks are related to the Cats. There is a cat upgrade from Kooks that fixes it or you can address with the edit tune.

 

Check both of the 02 sensors. Make sure both are back in place. Also check the wiring connections of BOTH sensors since it is now connected to an extentions; make sure the extentions are connected correctly.

 

I will be doing the test myself and using an independent shop dyno for the comparison. The winner stays on my car....sorry no repeatability testing will be done unless the LG's must com eback off due to losing. The engine light issue must be resolved before hand so I can sell these things if need be.

All wires are correct.

Kooks if offering the cat swap to anyone with the engine light?

 

I don't understand why you don't just get 02 sims.

 

I've checked this in the past and (I may be wrong now) it is my understanding that 02 sims aren't yet made for the C6 and that the C5 sims will not work correctly with our setup. I had originally planned using sims but chose to tune the car and address the cats in that manner.
And no CEL issues with my Kooks.

 

Why do I need to bypass an emsion control device or use a bandaid to fix something that shouldn't need fixing. I kept my car legal with cats and I don't want to turn off the warning indicator that the landing gear isn't working.... so to speak....

 

Your car is not legal being that you have reloacted the cats more than 1 inch from the OEM location.

Check engine light only comes on after extend low rpm cruise ... and will shut off after some stop and go and spirited driving.

 

upgrade the cats. they arent heating up properly. kooks has new cats that will heat up quicker and stay warm. or i think they do. either way thats probably the problem.

 

Why bother modding the car if you're still worried about "complying?"

As stated, the new cats are not legal. Often new cats change the way the gasses flow thus changing how the rear 02's pick up the signal. Rear 02 sensors serve no purpose but emissions. Why risk having a light on when you go to emissions?

BTW, my truck had no cats, kooks long tubes, and a bassani exhaust and still passed emissions....yup, you guessed it, rear 02's turned off.

 

You're entitled to work on your car in any way you wish but please stop pushing that type of fix on my thread. You seem to want to argue or prove your point but I don't wish to argue. The sensors are saying something is wrong that needs to be fixed. I choose to do things the harder correct way. With that said, good luck with your car and drive safe.

The problem has been solved without hack fixes, turning off the rear O2's, or bypassing their function with sims.

Using HPtuners I data logged for extended periods of time and the rear O2's read the extended time period running too lean on the long term fuel trends (LTFT's) and set off the code. Anyway, I tuned the idle/cruise closed loop fuel trends to be non-positive near zero as they should be and then using a wideband, brought the car back to 12.5 at WOT (nitrous car). The car's ability to maintain 14.7 a/f is within limits and the car runs lean outside those limits by what other mods you have. If the limits of the LTFT's exceed 24% then you get the code/light. The surprising thing was that the car although running really lean at idle, was pig rich at WOT. It was 11.8 to 11.2 over the rpm range; talk about the worst of both worlds.

Anyway, 3 days now and 150 miles in all types of driving and for the first time in five months--since the headers are on the car...no codes and no smell at idle from running lean. Finally the thing idles like stock with no band-aid fixes and all sensors working as they should.

The kooks headers are not at fault. You need tuning after mods or certain combinations of mods.

Hope this helps those with these headers.

 

How were you able to get HP Tuners. They said it is not available to public till later this month.

 

A friend that owns a tuner shop nearby helped with this preliminary tune just to get me running. It was a beta unit and I don't own it. For a nominal fee, I received a road tune while he visited.

I bet I gained more power than any other mod to date except the cam and nitrous.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...0&forum_id=101

 

Aren't the LTFT's built over time? So, for example, if the battery resets, those tables are blown away and built from scratch?

 

wait, does this imply it uses an algorithm instead of preset values ? would that also imply that without modding the algorithm you would be hard coding the numbers ?

 

or are they (the rear o2's) getting too hot ? if the cat passes too much heat it will trip the sel, which will also cause it to go rich at WOT - prevents burning up the cats.

if the rear o2 is too close to the cat it eventually synch with the front one and trip the sel.

what type of intake etc. oh wait you said this was a nitrous car... oh shoot.. ignore me.. i gotta rethink this one...

 

I believe that there is also a stipulation in the same law with regard to replacing a presumably non damaged catalytic converter.

The EPA guidelines state that replacement converters may be installed only in the following situations:

1. The vehicle is missing a converter.
2. The state or local inspection program has determined that the existing converter needs replacement.
3. The vehicle has exceeded the age or mileage conditions of the original equipment catalytic converter. Consult vehicle owner’s manual or emissions warranty manual for specific details on your vehicle. Additionally, a legitimate need for replacement has been established and documented.
.

In other words, federal law prohibits removal or replacement of properly functioning O.E. catalytic converters.


In any event, I am glad that you seem to have gotten it fixed SpinMonster. Hope the light stays out for good.

 

The EPA guidelines state that replacement converters may be installed only in the following situations:

1. The vehicle is missing a converter.

2. The state or local inspection program has determined that the existing converter needs replacement. - cool, doesn't say why just says if it is determined that it needs to be replaced. well, to install headers it would need to be replaced.

3. The vehicle has exceeded the age or mileage conditions of the original equipment catalytic converter. Consult vehicle owner’s manual or emissions warranty manual for specific details on your vehicle.

Additionally, a legitimate need for replacement has been established and documented.
(see no. 2 above) .

does federal law permit or prohibit the removal or replacement of properly functioning O.E. catalytic converters.