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Has anyone installed FAST intake manifold with ATI Procharger on a C6? A thread in FI section says you have to use a Trailblazer SS throttle body to make it fit. WTF?
im 99% sure it'll fit....i doubt FAST would be so stupid not to consider the guys supercharging their vettes. I know it worked fine on my buddies C5...i'll look into it
I'm 100% sure and here is a picture of it with his post on the topic:
Originally Posted by Mr.Big
When we did mine, we only saw 11rwhp however it was part of getting more air in the engine, with the final plan later to supercharge it... After the s/c was installed it has well paid for itself by rwhp and tq #'s compared to other similar s/c setups with out the fast intake, we saw a much larger increase because of more efficient air flow into the motor... was it worth it before the supercharger you ask??? My answer is YES... I like to get every last bit out of the motor, before I get into the bottom end... As for the L.P.E. kit, it's VERY clean no "glassing" once the install is done, you would think it came that way from B.G....
Jeremy
And there you also have a trail blazer SS throttle body... But hey, don't take my word for it... give it a try with the stocker and see how far you get .... On a serious note yes you must change the T.B. the fast intake pushes the T.B. @ an inch forward, the servo motor on the T.B. is then where the s/c head unit wants to be... The trail blazer ss T.B. moves the servo motor to an aft position and is compatible with the wiring harnesss, also it's 90mm... Viola
You sure don't want to be half way through this install and figure this one out as we did... Just trying to share so my PITA could help someone else...
Jeremy
Correct me if I am wrong, but is it not a waste of money to go with a larger intake man. when you are talking about a pressurised system. You have all the air you need if you want more air just use a smaller pulley. I mean it makes sense if you are talking N/A, but not S/C.
Correct me if I am wrong, but is it not a waste of money to go with a larger intake man. when you are talking about a pressurised system. You have all the air you need if you want more air just use a smaller pulley. I mean it makes sense if you are talking N/A, but not S/C.
Vert,
The goal with any I/C motor is to be as efficient as possible... If you have an F.I. motor with high compression, want big rwhp and want to avoid knock, you have to be smart about how you get the air in... just like a N/A motor... The right cam, intercooler, tubing, manifold, head config... however you can skin a cat 1000 ways, I just choose to do it the smart way... find another LS2 with only 5.5psi making 620rwhp and 518rwtq... the numbers speak volumes IMHO...
So you figure out if would be a waste of money to you...
My decision is obvious...
Jeremy
I see your point about just adding more boost if you want to add more air. But more boost also means hotter air. It would be better to get as most condensed air as you can to the engine in the most effecient manner possible. A FAST intake manifold will help get the most out of your present boost level without adding more heat.
Burn ethanol! It's cheap, it burns cool, and you can increase your compression with no ping and best of all, it works great with forced air intake systems!
Boost is a measurement of restriction in the intake tract. So, improve airflow, and stay at a certain ammount of boost you will make more HP. Sure S/C help overcome inefficent intake tracts, but that is still no excuse not to improve the motors ability to breathe a motor is still an airpump.
Burn ethanol! It's cheap, it burns cool, and you can increase your compression with no ping and best of all, it works great with forced air intake systems!
Just a thought
Cheers,
Frank
That is an o.k. solution, but just a bandaid to a bigger problem... plus it's a PITA to fill and keep filled... I have been this route before...
Jeremy
Vert,
The goal with any I/C motor is to be as efficient as possible... If you have an F.I. motor with high compression, want big rwhp and want to avoid knock, you have to be smart about how you get the air in... just like a N/A motor... The right cam, intercooler, tubing, manifold, head config... however you can skin a cat 1000 ways, I just choose to do it the smart way... find another LS2 with only 5.5psi making 620rwhp and 518rwtq... the numbers speak volumes IMHO...
So you figure out if would be a waste of money to you...
My decision is obvious...
Jeremy
Yes, I definitely agree with you on making more power easier, ie. i/c cam, valves and so on. My thinking is you could have runners in the manifold the size of fire hose pipe, but the size of the valve, lift, and duration of the cam is going to determine how much air will flow into the engine, and once you go to positive boost essentially you have air in the intake that is being held back if you will, which creates the positive pressure. I mean obviously we are not talking 30 psi here, 5.5 is minimal. My feeling it is your heads, valves, and cam that are making you such great #s.
And you could be right, I am just thinking of it from a general physics point if you have a stock man on a stock enging, and fast man on a stock engine, both with s/c pushing 5.5 psi any everything else the same, I would bet they would put out the same hp.
Look, the intake is a source of restriction. In fact a stock ls6 intake robs about 20+ cfm (if memory serves me correctly) off peak flow compared to the flow numbers for heads you see quoted without an intake. A FAST is less restricted than an ls6. Thus if you bolt up a FAST instead of a Ls6 you would in fact see more HP at a given boost level as you have improved the efficency of the whole intake tract. Great heads are nothing if they are choked by a poor intake. If this held true, you could run an ls1 intake instead of an ls6 ona supercharged car. I think you can find evidence of improvement there also.