Has anyone thought about putting the newer 2002 LS6 cam into their LS2? They only cost $215 from Scoggins Dickey. I assume since the LS2 already has the LS6 springs it should work fine without replacing the valve springs. Plus the base circle is only .012" less so I'm assuming you don't have to switch out the pushrods (can someone confirm this?). If that's the case, then a cam swap is really easy.

I did the cam in my 01 Z28 and it was a long job mainly from replacing all the valve springs and the dual row timing chain. If I just have to swap out the cams, then it's just taking off the harmonic balancer (oh, but on a Vette this means taking off the steering rack!), then take off the water pump, take off the cam cover, take off the valve covers and remove all the rockers and pushrods, then spin the cam, insert the lifter rods to hold them up, and swap out camshafts. I'm betting I can do this in under a day. How long does it take to get the steering rack clear?

From a cost standpoint, if you don't need new pushrods for the slightly smaller base circle, then it's just the $215 cam and another $40 for gaskets and a new harmonic balancer bolt. Compare that to a new Comp Cam, springs, retainers, and pushrods for around $800. It would be worth 15 hp.

Thanks,
Glenn

 

You can probably find a take-out cam for $125-$150.

If you are looking for mild - you may consider one of the grinds you may use with the LS6 springs - ala LPE GT2-3.

 

I think you would want the 02' style sodium filled valves as well, and I don't think the LS2 comes with them.

Steering rack isn't too bad, if you know what your doing. Disconnect everthing and it should slide right over to the side.

 

Like he said, steeering rack is no big deal, don't take it out, just remove all the bolts and lines and move it out of the way. You also need to remove the radiator, that was not noted in your description.

If you never swapped a cam in a C5/C6, I'd give yourself 2 days, just to be safe. If you've done it before, one is more than enough.
I swapped my cam 4 times in my C5, 1st time it took 12 hours, the third time about 5.5. Since your not planning on doing springs, it should be realtively quick.

Be sure to replace the front seal, no matter how new it is. I learned this the hard way...

Dave

 

You can't even begin to compare the work involved in swaping cams from a Z28 to a C6 corvette. First , you don't do this with jack stands!
You need a lift , the right tools and a lot of practical knowledge. I've had two cams installed in my C6 by people who do this everyday at A&A corvette. Believe me these guys are the best at what they do. With that said, it took them a day and a half including valve springs.
It took a full day on the second cam with no valve springs change. The rack and pinion alone is a monster. BTW don't cut the air bag wire in the steering column. That a $900 dealer fix only. But you already knew that, right? And BTW if you're going to all that trouble to install a cam then put a cam in it. Something like a 220/220/581/581/114LSA's. That would work with no tunning. If you're going any larger then you'll need headers, tunning, intake etc.
If all you want is what the 2002 Z06 will give you then , just put some 1.85 rockers on and you'll get 8-10 HP increase. Don't waste you money. My ,02 cents

Andreas G.

 

Thanks for the advice, I did know about the airbag disconnect. Of course, I didn't have to do that on my Z28. Also, not sure why you need a lift, other than to make it easier to remove the steering rack. Two other people that did their own swap instead of paying someone else to do it said the rack was no big deal. Other than the rack and disconnecting the airbag, it shouldn't be that different than the LS1 I've swapped cams on before. As far as the 220, the one you specified has .581 lift. First off that ramp is more agressive than the 224XER .581 112 LSA cam I have now in my 01. My 01 sounds like a sewing machine, the cam you specified is going to be noisier. Plus if I go with that much lift, I have to change out springs and replace them every 30,000 miles to be safe. I want to keep this as a street car. Maybe it's not worth a day of my time and $250 for 15 hp. I'll have to decide that.

The rockers are a consideration, but again, you run into spring issues because it takes the lift from .525 up to .571, too much for the LS6 springs.

Also, please don't assume that someone doesn't have the practical experience and knowledge to change out cams just because you don't.

Thanks,
Glenn

 

Ive heard a couple cams with 220ish duration and in the 580ish ballpark as described. Common grind. Certainly there was some valvetrain noise but I would not have described it as sewing machine like. Anybody else comment on that?

 

3 of my 4 cam swaps were done with a jack and numerous 2X10's under the front tires. Sure, a bit archaeic, effective.
The rack is no big deal, its only held on by 2 bolts other than the ends, plus teh 2 lines. The power steering pump bracket is tougher to remove than the rack, and again, do not bother removing the rack, just push it out of the way to get the pulley off.

I do however, think it is a really, really, really bad idea to put that cam in your car. Did I mention it's not a good idea? While the cam may not be easily detectable, if the dealer did find it, you will have thrown away your warranty for minimal gains. If you get a cam, do it right, get the springs and go larger, make it worth your effort.

If you have done a cam swap in an F Body, the C6 will be no big deal, just remember, basically, everything in front of the throttle body has to come off with the exception of the condensor, you can use a couple of zip ties to get it out of your way while your working in there. Make sure you use plenty or RTV on the timing cover, I like the red.

More people should do their own work, good luck and keep us posted

 

Were you driving the car? The sewing machine sound is heard inside the car, not really from the outside, and not at all during idle. It is there with almost all cams, its no big deal, and you get used to it, it's just an odd sound at first, thats why you notice it.

 

CYA-Vette, you gave me excellent advice. I guess I'm just kind of on the fence with this thing. I love the 224/.581/112 in my 01 Z28. I couldn't believe how easy a cam only swap was on an LS1, you don't even have to pull the intake manifold. I just wanted to avoid doing the springs even though the next time will be a lot easier. I used the top dead center method with the "Larry" tool (from LS1Tech.com).

As far as the noise, you are also correct, it's not noticeable inside the car. Your other excellent point is that if you are going to void the warranty then go for it. I will most likely keep the stock cam until the warranty is up, then I'll most likely go with the 224/.581/114 lsa cam. By the way, the LS1 seemed to really like a cam with the same intake and exhaust duration, but most Vette people go with higher exhaust duration. Is this because of the better flowing exhaust system on the Vette?

My frustration is it seems to me that Chevy should have put the 02 LS6 cam in the LS2 to begin with. Why did they cheap out? So, I guess this will be an easy upgrade for GM in 07 or 08 to make it a 415 hp Vette.

Thanks,
Glenn

 

Same here, I've done C5 and C6 cam swaps in my garage with no issues (but I do have a lift). It sounds like you know exactly what you're getting into. I'd do it again in a heartbeat, but not for the 02 Z06 cam. It's too close to the stock LS2 cam to be worth all the effort and expense. Go with something bigger, or leave the stock cam in there and run the rockers along with the stock springs. FYI, the LS6 springs can definitely deal with .572 lift, I ran them with my GT2-3. LPE supplies them along with the GT2-3 cam, and it has more lift than that. It won't coil bind at that lift.

Noise is a subjective thing, so you'll get lots of opinions on this, but I can tell you that most aftermarket cams are too noisy for me. Even the GT2-3 is louder than stock because of it's aggressive intake lobe. My LS2 upgrade plans for this year include everything except for an aftermarket cam. CNC heads, headers, intake, rockers, tuning, etc., just no more sewing machine cams for me.

 

Thanks for the input. I'll stick with just doing headers, cutouts, and maybe an inlet (however, I'm deathly afraid of hydrolock).

Thanks,
Glenn

 

Just a few questions, first off to CYA-Vette. You said to make sure that you replace your front seal. I was told by the guys a corvettes of Houston that there is a special alignment tool that is used when putting the timing cover back on, is this true and how does that relate to the seal that you refer too.


To Flareside, is the noise really that noticable? This is the first I have heard off this. I was looking at putting in a blower cam 220/224 .581 115lsa. Do you feel this cam will make enough noise that I will hear it over the headers and exhaust? I want an engine that breathes well, but I don't care to hear anything sounding like a sewing maching.

I have never swapped out spring on heads that was actually on the car. What all is involved. Obviously a spring compressor, what holds the valve in place? If any of you guys have any other tips on a cam and spring swap I would love to hear it. Thanks

 

Swapping springs with the heads on is not that bad, it just takes some patience. Take all the spark plugs out, take off the valve covers, pull the rockers and push rods. Rotate the crank until the cylinder you are working at has the piston at top dead center. Put the car in gear if it's a manual and pull on the parking brake. For an auto, you have to get a tool that locks the flywheel. Get either the Vinci tool (really nice) or the Larry tool (search on LS1tech.com) (it's really cheap and works fine) and compress the spring. Remove the keepers, loosen the tool and take out the old spring. Replace the valve seal if you have more than 20,000 miles, otherwise, I'd leave them alone. Put in the new spring, retainer, and compress back down. Put in the new keepers and release the tool. It's not too hard, it's just frustrating to get the keepers in sometimes. If you compress far enough it's pretty easy. Make sure you get some extra keepers because those rascals can get away from you and they are hard to find. Put the push rods and rockers back on and loctite the bolts.

Good luck,
Glenn

 

I understand rotating the piston to TDC, but why put the car in gear if your just changing the springs?

What PSI do you torque the rockers to. You say that you use lock tight on the rocker bolts?

 

Subjective for sure. I have done (ran, not installed) a number of cams. Some moderate ones, one big cam, no monsters. Im familiar with the sound. I would not have described it as sewing machine like. At any rate I thoiught maybe some cams had a different sound I hadnt heard and this was what was being described. Valvetrain noise doesnt bother me at all. I rather like it actually. Drone on the other hand makes me want to slit my wrists. Ear of the beholder I guess.

 

That is the same front seal, and yes, there is a "special" tool. Between me and my friends, we've done about 15 cam swaps with no special tools. As long as you press the balancer back on quickly BEFORE you tighten the timing cover it will center itself. If you tighten the cover first, although the balancer will still go on, it will not be centered and it will leak, ask me how I know Not only will it leak, but that plastic seal will quickly score the balancer and your be spending $120 on a new balancer too.
To do a cam swap, many special tools are supposedly needed. Or you can use your own ingenuity like most of us do. You also need a tool to press the balancer back on, but a simple piece of threaded rod will do the trick. There are also a few ways to hold up the lifters, change the springs, the list goes on and on..
While a cam swap takes a decent amount of time, it's fairly simple, just tedius. It takes more patience than ability. More people can/should do it on their own.

Who wants to open up a shop?

 

Thanks for the great info, I have built a few engines in my past, 351W and chevy 400, its just been a while, and I know they are "new" tricks to these new style engines. When you say a treaded rod, just basically a long bolt to compress it back on. How long would you say?

In all of your cam experience, how you describe this "cam noise" I have had some mild cams in some cars, but never noticed and specific noise before that I knew was coming from the cam, maybe I just missed it.

 

I gotta go with Andreas on this one. Replacing a cam to me is the start of the dreaded "you might as well..." with the motor. Going to new rockers like SLP's 1.85 & CompCams Beehive Springs may just slip by the Warranty *****. Crane makes a great tool for springs and it does two springs at once without taking the heads off.

 

You need to lock the engine down so it doesn't rotate out of the way when the valve hits the top of the piston. I don't remember the torque value for the rocker bolts, but I did use blue loctite on them.