Yesterday, I got in my C6, pressed the start button and all I got was kind of a clicking noise even though the dash lights and radio came on. I shut it down and tried it again with the same results. I then released the hood and as I was getting out of the car I got 3 chimes like it wasn't in reverse but it was. I then hooked up my battery tender plus and it had a flashing green light indicating that the battery was at least 80% charged. I left it on the battery tender for about an hour and then disconnected it. The car then started up like normal. FYI, I've been hit with DBS twice in thae past year so I don't know if this plays into the problem.

 

Is this an 05 or 06?

Tom

 

if you're still using the same battery then yep most likely. chances are the battery was discharged too much and will not take and hold the proper charge.

try replacing the battery and see how it goes.

DBS and '05s, I sure wish they would not only find a resolution but hook us up with a 'priority start' for piece of mind.

 

yep that is usually the case when the fob is not detected. You might want to get the battery in your fob checked and them proceed to debug from there. It has happened to me numerous times in my car but it is usaully because it did not detect the fob or I have not pushed the clutch in far enough for it to start.

 

It's an 05.

 

Battery problem, for sure.

 

 

FOB not detected. At times mine doesn't locate it in my left pants or jacket pocket. Move it into the open and it starts right up. I thought it was battery too the first time.

 

Time for a new battery.

 

If your battery voltage was a little below 11.2 volts, it is not going to crank, but all the computers will turn on. Yes, sounds like a bad battery.

 

Go for an Optima Red Top battery and put the battery tender on it once a month and forget you Battery issues

 

I have experienced something similar to this on at least 4 occasions during the last 29,000 miles on my 05 Z51 MN6. In some cases I have gotten various DIC messages and/or check engine light. In all cases, I have moved the FOB around, shifted to neutral and back to reverse, made sure the clutch was in, turned the car off and retried. The car has always started - sometimes after 5 or 6 attempts and I have never had to replace my battery. Usually when I experience this, I replace the FOB battery if over 6 months old. I am highly suspicious of some type of RFI interference.

 

Just left the dealer about this problem. I have the same problem but the car does it about every other time I try to start it. We hooked up the tech 2 and it doesn't give any error codes on it. It showed the ignition command then a miscommunication error. ( U code ). Battery under hood is fully charged and both remotes have the same effect. I have to take the car back next week because they have narrowed it down to 3 possible problems. 1. The theft deterent is not disengaging and needs an update. 2. The FOB's need to be re synced with in dash chip. 3. The start relay is failing to close. I'll try to keep you posted on a solution.

 

Thanks I appreciate the feedback.
Pappi

 

This happened to me when I had my fobe in my purse and put my purse in the back. The fobe was not close enough to the front of the car, so the starter just clicked. As soon as I move the fobe closer, the problem was solved.

 

I get this every now and again (clicking, not recognizing Fobs, beeping horn for no reason) . I just move things around like autoxnut does and it works. Mine is always clicking, sometimes while driving. I just try to ignore all this so as not to get annoyed. It's just the sh*tty Delco electronics and poorly programmed interface acting up.

And it's not DBS: 8K on mine and two major road trips and never a problem. I had to get the BCM replaced twice on my 00 Coupe (car wouldn't start and was totally dead - had to be towed), so the sh*tty electronics in these cars is nothing new.

 

I've had this happen to me on occasion and have now concluded that the key fob interferes with my garage door opener.

I have complained to the dealer, who has checked and not been able find a problem. Also this problem has never happened anywhere except at home in my garage. When I put the fob in the slot in the glove box, it always starts up fine.

 

My 05 has never had a problem, maybe if you guys drive them more than once a month it won't be an issue.

 

3 things have to happen for a manual car to perform a start sequence. The RCLDR and the fob must negotiate the proper rolling code (if you were able to unlock the door and get in the car, you know that's working), the clutch safety switch must be activated (fully depress the clutch), and the start button must be pressed momentarily. Gear selection doesn't matter, though for safety the transmission should be in neutral.

For automatics it is the same except that there is no clutch safety switch, but the transmission must be in either park or neutral and the brake switch must be activated (foot on brake).

If all of those conditions aren't satisfied, you get clicky-clicky under the dash, but no start. The most common cause in manual cars with no DIC message is failure to fully depress the clutch. The most common cause in automatics is failure to depress the brake pedal.

If the car is not detecting the fob, you should get a "No FOB" message in the DIC. There aren't any warning messages about the clutch or brake being pressed. So no message would point toward either operator error or a faulty clutch or brake switch.

Other rarer problems would include a bad RCDLR module (but if the doors unlocked that should be fine), bad BCM (traffic cop for passing messages between the other modules), contention on the Class II bus (likely caused by aftermarket accessories connected to the Class II bus, though the OEM radio can sometimes be the culprit, pulling its fuse will eliminate it as a possibility), ECM problems, a faulty starter relay, or a faulty starter bendix.

If the lights, horn, etc work, you don't have a dead battery, the BCM is working, and the Class II bus is not being jammed (all have to work to blow the horn or turn on the lights). Being able to unlock the door proved the RCDLR and fob are working. So you're down to operator error or a problem with the primary starting circuit.

If you get a series of loud clicks from the starter bendix but no start, the ECM and starter relay are working. You might have a weak battery, or the starter may have a fault. But from the described symptoms, I'd have to say the battery is probably fine. Since the car started later, I'd tend to lean toward the conclusion that you didn't have the clutch fully depressed the first time.

 

GREAT INFO !! I have this problem constantly and tech 2 wouldn't show no errors. I will try to ensure I press the clutch all the way down each time to see if this could be my problem. Thanks for the info..