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I purchased a cags eliminator from zip products and installed it per instructions. It worked perfectly, but now the check engine light is on. I would appreciate info on how to reset the light and to read the code if that is possible without any extra equipment. It is a 2005 built in 3/05. thanks for the help!
That was the only thing done. As you know it is a very simple procedure and it is possible it was unrelated, but I have only had the car a couple of weeks and it had not come on before this. It came on immeditely after I installed the device and drove it so the timing made the device very questionable. There is only about 5k miles on the car and it is bone stock with the exception of the corsa exhaust the prior owner had installed within the first week of him owning the car. Thanks for your help. I would also appreciate a link to a good, inexpenise scanner to hook to the car.
I also highly doubt the 2 are related.
I installed the same CAGS elim from ZIp and havent had any check engine lights for 9k miles since the install.
If it comes on again, you should bring it in for service. chances are, if you bting it in without the light on, they wont do anything
Originally Posted by kentrx1
I purchased a cags eliminator from zip products and installed it per instructions. It worked perfectly, but now the check engine light is on. I would appreciate info on how to reset the light and to read the code if that is possible without any extra equipment. It is a 2005 built in 3/05. thanks for the help!
I removed the cag eliminator but the light is still on. I was also wondering if there are any mileage indicators(just passed 5k) that could trigger the light to come on. Sure would like to cut the light off and see if it comes back on.......any way other than battery d/c? thanks
Take it into the shop. Also I just left from Carolina Automasters down in Durham which is my home town. The two are not related and you need to have the car checked out.
I have yet to have it happen on this car, but I have had other GM's in which the check engine light came on due to the gas cap not being sealed properly.
Take out the cags eliminator and put it back to stock. Reset your ecu by disnocecting the battery for a few minutes. If the check engine lights goes away, then the resistor on your cags eliminator is no good. Cags eliminator has to have a good working resistor to prevent check engine light. Give it a shot
I purchased a cags eliminator from zip products and installed it per instructions. It worked perfectly, but now the check engine light is on. I would appreciate info on how to reset the light and to read the code if that is possible without any extra equipment. It is a 2005 built in 3/05. thanks for the help!
the CAGS and eventually the check engine light went off. ? Bad CAGS
or the 2006 OBC can detect any variation in resistance or the CAGS eliminator needs to be redisigned. Now I just out-accelerate it.
the CAGS and eventually the check engine light went off. ? Bad CAGS
or the 2006 OBC can detect any variation in resistance or the CAGS eliminator needs to be redisigned. Now I just out-accelerate it.
the CAGS and eventually the check engine light went off. ? Bad CAGS
or the 2006 OBC can detect any variation in resistance or the CAGS eliminator needs to be redisigned. Now I just out-accelerate it.
For a simple fix:
1. Acquire 0.99 dollars.
2. Go to your nearest Radio Shack or similar supplier and buy a 5 pack of 2200 ohm 1/2 watt resistors.
3. Install one of the five resistors in the female half of the 1-4 shift connector on your transmission. It is the part on the end of the cable not the part connected to the transmission. You can give the other four to friends who have the same problem.
Last edited by ronsc1985; Apr 3, 2006 at 07:07 PM.
Before you condemn the CAGS you purchased you need to know the code that triggered the CEL. Do you have a code reader? This is why I bought one - http://www.diydiagnostics.com/. I can now read any codes the C6 may generate then clear them as we could on the C5.
Best $70 you can spend to avoid a trip to the dealer for some passing error code.
thanks tom...i just ordered one and plan to do exactly as you suggested. i love the corvette, but the cags has got to go and i do not want to cause any warranty issues. I really appreciate your suggestions as well as everyone elses. Just fyi, I have contacted zips customer service and they are mailing me another cags eliminator. I wish to compliment them on their prompt and professional service and I must admit I have not proven their product is at fault....but the timing did point to their product.
CAGS on the C-5 and C-6 and no issues at all. Find out what the problem is and reinstall a CAGS. They do work fine. Should not be any warranty issues with any reasonable service person.
Just a follow up. Today I had the engine code checked and the dealership told me it was related to the 1-4 shift. The code had cleared itself by the time I got to the dealership but it was still stored in the computer. They did not tell me the exact code, but did confirm it referred to the 1-4 shift system.
I examined the device I purchased from zip products today and noticed the part that plugs into the wiring harness has two wire prong----and in mine they are not of equal length. I tried using needle nose pliers to pull on the "short" prong lightly, but it did not pull out any. Just wondering if anyone has noticed if their prongs were of equal length. I really feel my problem was the one prong was not making contact---i.e. a defective plug.
One other note is I have the glass top and it gets noisy sometimes with a creaking sound. I mentioned this to the dealership and they said their was a tsb about this and it involved installing some shims----which they have ordered.
Just a follow up. Today I had the engine code checked and the dealership told me it was related to the 1-4 shift. The code had cleared itself by the time I got to the dealership but it was still stored in the computer. They did not tell me the exact code, but did confirm it referred to the 1-4 shift system.
I examined the device I purchased from zip products today and noticed the part that plugs into the wiring harness has two wire prong----and in mine they are not of equal length. I tried using needle nose pliers to pull on the "short" prong lightly, but it did not pull out any. Just wondering if anyone has noticed if their prongs were of equal length. I really feel my problem was the one prong was not making contact---i.e. a defective plug.
One other note is I have the glass top and it gets noisy sometimes with a creaking sound. I mentioned this to the dealership and they said their was a tsb about this and it involved installing some shims----which they have ordered.
I would sent it back to ZIP. I'm sure they will take care of it.
I would sent it back to ZIP. I'm sure they will take care of it.
Maybe one of the following DTCs?
Most likely cause would seem to be a pin in original CAGS eliminator that was not fully seated, leading to an intermittent or an open circuit.
These eliminators are widely used (I wonder if anyone has tried a poll to determine the percentage of manual trans users who get one?) and rarely have I heard of any issue -- yours was a rarity.
I'll bet the replacement will be fine.
P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction
One other note is I have the glass top and it gets noisy sometimes with a creaking sound. I mentioned this to the dealership and they said their was a tsb about this and it involved installing some shims----which they have ordered.
Please keep us advised on this. I have a creaking clear top too. The TSB that I am aware of only address the painted top and involves re-gluing it to its magnesium frame. This shim TSB for the clear top is a new one. Anybody got a copy of it or the number of the TSB?