c6 lowering kit
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
From: Doha Qatar
c6 lowering kit
I've recieved a c6 lowering kit that I ordered from wcc
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/ps-...-bolt-kit.aspx
have anyone installed these yet?
if so, how long does it take to install them?
is it hard?
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/ps-...-bolt-kit.aspx
have anyone installed these yet?
if so, how long does it take to install them?
is it hard?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 767
Likes: 6
From: near Spokane WA
BTW, you may not want to change the front bolts. Try lowering the front on the stock bolts ... the front lowers more than the rear (GM sends C6s out of the factory with the rear bolts lowered almost to the limit).
I changed only my rear bolts and kept the front stock ones and lowered all to the limit.
Norm
I changed only my rear bolts and kept the front stock ones and lowered all to the limit.
Norm
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 0
From: Clemmons NC
Zip sells a set of bushings that go on the end of the stock bolts which will give their (Zips) desired lowering by removing the bolts and removing the bushings and then replacing with their bushings. Looks like the WCC already has the shallow bushings.
Either way you're in for some work to remove the bolts front and back.
Either way you're in for some work to remove the bolts front and back.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,566
Likes: 2
From: Goleta CA
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
It's not hard. Undo the sway bar end links and drop the lower control arm, then you can swap the bolts. Put it all back together, drive around a bit to make sure it's settled, and readjust to your desired height. Then head to the alignment shop with desired specs in hand. 
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,874
Likes: 68
From: Rochester Hills Michigan
Lowered
I just lowered the back of mine this past weekend by cutting the rear bushing. By removing the lower shock bolt you can get enough clearance to cut the bushing with a saws-all and you don't have to remove the lower control arm.
With the front bolts all the way up and the rear all the way up with the bushings cut the wheel to wheel well clearance is perfect.....
With the front bolts all the way up and the rear all the way up with the bushings cut the wheel to wheel well clearance is perfect.....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
From: Doha Qatar
Originally Posted by mlongo99
It's not hard. Undo the sway bar end links and drop the lower control arm, then you can swap the bolts. Put it all back together, drive around a bit to make sure it's settled, and readjust to your desired height. Then head to the alignment shop with desired specs in hand.
What alignment are you talking about???
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,566
Likes: 2
From: Goleta CA
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
The mounts of the lower control arm are adjustable for setting the alignment. It's pretty much impossible to take them off and put them back on in the exact same position. So by doing that you pretty much ruin the wheel's alignment. But lowering the car will change it a bit anyway, and it's well knows that many cars are out of alignment from the factory, so it's something that should be done anyway.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 767
Likes: 6
From: near Spokane WA
You don't want to "take the lower A arm off" ... you just want to disconnect the ball joint and the sway bar attachments to the lower A-arm and then the lower A-arm will drop enough to screw the bolt out and replace with WWC bolt(s).
Alignment is a good idea because the camber will go a little negative with lowering & toe-in may change some too.
The most challenging part of the process is separating the ball joint from the lower A-arm. Tap it and pry.
Norm
Alignment is a good idea because the camber will go a little negative with lowering & toe-in may change some too.
The most challenging part of the process is separating the ball joint from the lower A-arm. Tap it and pry.
Norm
Last edited by Norm_427; May 22, 2006 at 09:21 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 767
Likes: 6
From: near Spokane WA
Yes, you have to remove one bolt holding the lower part of the shock to the lower A-arm -- that's a piece of cake. I don't have pix but once you get in there it really is simple. WWC sends pretty good instructions with it.
Later, when you have it back together and it comes time to actually adjust the ride height, you'll want to have a second small jack to lift the transverse spring up to the point that the rubber cushion of the bolt is lifted off of the A-arm. That way it will be easy to turn the adjusting bolt with a 10 mm wrench. It turns very easy then.
I went with WCC bolts in the rear adjusted all the way down and in the front I left the stock bolts and adjusted them all the way down. I think that is about the best look. And the really good thing about this whole process is that you really don't increase the harshness of the ride.
Norm
Later, when you have it back together and it comes time to actually adjust the ride height, you'll want to have a second small jack to lift the transverse spring up to the point that the rubber cushion of the bolt is lifted off of the A-arm. That way it will be easy to turn the adjusting bolt with a 10 mm wrench. It turns very easy then.
I went with WCC bolts in the rear adjusted all the way down and in the front I left the stock bolts and adjusted them all the way down. I think that is about the best look. And the really good thing about this whole process is that you really don't increase the harshness of the ride.
Norm
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 0
From: Clemmons NC
Originally Posted by normlunt
You don't want to "take the lower A arm off" ... you just want to disconnect the ball joint and the sway bar attachments to the lower A-arm and then the lower A-arm will drop enough to screw the bolt out and replace with WWC bolt(s).
Alignment is a good idea because the camber will go a little negative with lowering & toe-in may change some too.
The most challenging part of the process is separating the ball joint from the lower A-arm. Tap it and pry.
Norm
Alignment is a good idea because the camber will go a little negative with lowering & toe-in may change some too.
The most challenging part of the process is separating the ball joint from the lower A-arm. Tap it and pry.
Norm
You can do a search under any C5 section and come up with instructions on how to lower the car with pictures and especially how to deal with the ball joints. The bolts are different on the C6 (especially in the rear) but the basics are the same on the C5.
Have fun.
