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Transmission fluid ???

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Old May 28, 2006 | 03:44 PM
  #21  
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Done deal guys. I put Mobil 1 synthetic in the Tranny , and Penzoil synthetic in the rear diff. Both were very dirty , ESPECIALLY for a car with 4500 miles.

Thanks for all the recommendations.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 06:29 PM
  #22  
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All I can say is the Redline made a difference between selling one of my other 5 spd. cars and keeping it as the shifting gears was difficult in putting it in gear while moving and grinding between shifts. In short it wasn't working right. After I put in Redline it was like slicing cake so I kept the car.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
Here's a shot of the plugs on the differential. The drain is just above the spring, so I held a stack of newspaper under it to direct the oil into the drain pan without making a mess.



I used Royal Purple in both. Even though the manual says you don't need to change it unless there is a leak, it also says to wait until your oil life monitor runs out before the engine oil needs changing. And we know how often that happens on forum member's cars.

I checked my 05 manual for instructions for the A4. It seems that there is only one plug for draining and filling. It says that after letting the fluid out, to drop the pan and let the rest of it out. The thing is, I'n not sure how necessary that is because the procedure includes instructions for changing the filter, which requires taking off the pan. So I guess it depends on how much gets left in the pan after draining. Maybe it's a lot.

Then, after filling back up to the fill hole, it says to install the plug, turn on the engine and let the fluid get up to temp. Move the lever through each gear, pausing for a few seconds in each one. Put it back in park, and with the enging running, undo the fill plug again and top it off.


Torque spec for the plug is 22lb-ft
for the great pic. What are the sizes of the ratchet you use to remove those 2 bolts? Is this information you getting from the 2005 shop manual? I don't remember seeing this in the owner's manual.
Drop the pan and change a filter never done this before and don't know if I want take this to that level. One big mess. But it would seem to me to do a complete auto trans service one would have to drop the pan and change filter since there is old tranny fluid in the filter and pan. Now just have to find out how to do that part.

The rear end has to be easier I hope just drain and change and 2 bolts? No pan removal?
But that is another picture

So then like the first engine oil change to get out the metal shavings after its broken in it is the same with the two above components the auto trans and the rear differential?
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Old May 28, 2006 | 06:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
Here's a shot of the plugs on the differential. The drain is just above the spring, so I held a stack of newspaper under it to direct the oil into the drain pan without making a mess.



I used Royal Purple in both. Even though the manual says you don't need to change it unless there is a leak, it also says to wait until your oil life monitor runs out before the engine oil needs changing. And we know how often that happens on forum member's cars.

I checked my 05 manual for instructions for the A4. It seems that there is only one plug for draining and filling. It says that after letting the fluid out, to drop the pan and let the rest of it out. The thing is, I'n not
sure how necessary that is because the procedure includes instructions for changing the filter, which requires taking off the pan. So I guess it depends on how much gets left in the pan after draining. Maybe it's a lot.

Then, after filling back up to the fill hole, it says to install the plug, turn on the engine and let the fluid get up to temp. Move the lever through each gear, pausing for a few seconds in each one. Put it back in park, and with the enging running, undo the fill plug again and top it off.


Torque spec for the plug is 22lb-ft
That looks like the rear end differential cover I hope that doesn't have to be removed to be changed
Otherwise if you take it to a dealership for that mess I don't think if you bring Redline with you to put in they will not do that
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Old May 28, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #25  
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The diff is just like the manual tranny, drain out the drain plug and fill up to the fill plug. No cover removal necessary. Simple as that.

Yea, this info is from the shop manual, not the owners manual. That would be wishful thinking.

Which bolt sizes are you asking about? The fill plug on the diff takes an allen. I don't remember the size, or what the drain plug was, but I can check. For the A4 plug, it doesn't say what size it needs.

I have seen posts where members have brought in their oil of choice and had their dealer swap it in. So that's an option if your dealer has a cool service department.

I don't think the filter change is too hard. Just more bolts to turn. I can write up the details if you'd like.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 01:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
The diff is just like the manual tranny, drain out the drain plug and fill up to the fill plug. No cover removal necessary. Simple as that.

Yea, this info is from the shop manual, not the owners manual. That would be wishful thinking.

Which bolt sizes are you asking about? The fill plug on the diff takes an allen. I don't remember the size, or what the drain plug was, but I can check. For the A4 plug, it doesn't say what size it needs.

I have seen posts where members have brought in their oil of choice and had their dealer swap it in. So that's an option if your dealer has a cool service department.
This is what I do

I don't think the filter change is too hard. Just more bolts to turn. I can write up the details if you'd like.
Thanks I love details.
The oil filter and oil change is very easy it uses a 13 mm drain plug.
On the drain plugs for the rear end and the auto 4 spd. trans I was wondering what the drain plug size is. What size ratchet do you use.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 02:25 AM
  #27  
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So now how about some pics on the rear differential and the automatic transmission fluid and pan with filter.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 07:04 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Subdriver
Nope, VI is correct:...
Yes, I later read my owners manual and saw that VI was what it said...apologizes to 2LT-Z51.

I still would think it is a typo on GM's part though.....how's they get from 3 to 6?
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Old May 30, 2006 | 11:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
The diff is just like the manual tranny, drain out the drain plug and fill up to the fill plug. No cover removal necessary. Simple as that.

Yea, this info is from the shop manual, not the owners manual. That would be wishful thinking.

Which bolt sizes are you asking about? The fill plug on the diff takes an allen. I don't remember the size, or what the drain plug was, but I can check. For the A4 plug, it doesn't say what size it needs.

I have seen posts where members have brought in their oil of choice and had their dealer swap it in. So that's an option if your dealer has a cool service department.

I don't think the filter change is too hard. Just more bolts to turn. I can write up the details if you'd like.
Chevy parts told me they carry magnetic plugs for the transmission.
What are the service intervals for the rear end fluid and the automatic transmission? I know it says in the manual unless you have a leak leave it along.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:30 PM
  #30  
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The plugs on the differential take a 10mm allen. These drawings are looking from the right-rear. Drain on the left, fill on the right. I don't know why they show a tag or something on the fill plug. Mine didn't have it.



A4 fluid capacity:
Oil pan removal - 5qt
Overhaul - 10.8qt
No mention of bolt sizes.

After draining fluid out the drain hole in the pan (from the pic in my previous post), reinstall the drain plug. Support the pan and remove it's bolts. (see below) Lightly tap the pan or pry it loose. Remove the pan and dran the rest of the fluid in it. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the mating surfaces.



Pull down on the filter with a twisting motion to remove. (above)

Remove the filter seal and discard. (below)



Coat the new filter seal with some transmission assembly lube (), and install onto the case. Gently tap it into place using a socket. (see above) Install the new filter.

Inspect the oil pan bolts. Reuse them if they look like the left image (#1 below), replace if the washers have reversed like in the right image.



Install a new oil pan gasket to the pan's sealing surface. Install the pan and tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 8lb-ft.

Then, as I stated before, fill the pan and top it off with the engine running.

One more thing... it also says "The maintenance schedule information will only be found in the owners manual"

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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:46 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
Here's a shot of the plugs on the differential. The drain is just above the spring, so I held a stack of newspaper under it to direct the oil into the drain pan without making a mess.



I used Royal Purple in both. Even though the manual says you don't need to change it unless there is a leak, it also says to wait until your oil life monitor runs out before the engine oil needs changing. And we know how often that happens on forum member's cars.

I checked my 05 manual for instructions for the A4. It seems that there is only one plug for draining and filling. It says that after letting the fluid out, to drop the pan and let the rest of it out. The thing is, I'n not sure how necessary that is because the procedure includes instructions for changing the filter, which requires taking off the pan. So I guess it depends on how much gets left in the pan after draining. Maybe it's a lot.

Then, after filling back up to the fill hole, it says to install the plug, turn on the engine and let the fluid get up to temp. Move the lever through each gear, pausing for a few seconds in each one. Put it back in park, and with the enging running, undo the fill plug again and top it off.


Torque spec for the plug is 22lb-ft
On the 2005 corvetee A-4 transmission is the heavier duty 4L65E transmission?
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:49 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
The plugs on the differential take a 10mm allen. These drawings are looking from the right-rear. Drain on the left, fill on the right. I don't know why they show a tag or something on the fill plug. Mine didn't have it.



A4 fluid capacity:
Oil pan removal - 5qt
Overhaul - 10.8qt
No mention of bolt sizes.

After draining fluid out the drain hole in the pan (from the pic in my previous post), reinstall the drain plug. Support the pan and remove it's bolts. (see below) Lightly tap the pan or pry it loose. Remove the pan and dran the rest of the fluid in it. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the mating surfaces.



Pull down on the filter with a twisting motion to remove. (above)

Remove the filter seal and discard. (below)



Coat the new filter seal with some transmission assembly lube (), and install onto the case. Gently tap it into place using a socket. (see above) Install the new filter.

Inspect the oil pan bolts. Reuse them if they look like the left image (#1 below), replace if the washers have reversed like in the right image.



Install a new oil pan gasket to the pan's sealing surface. Install the pan and tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 8lb-ft.

Then, as I stated before, fill the pan and top it off with the engine running.

One more thing... it also says "The maintenance schedule information will only be found in the owners manual"

Is it alot easier to have the shop or Chevy do this complete Trans service since they have the tools, parts and lift for it. How much does
this transmission service cost?
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:56 AM
  #33  
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Drop the pan and change a filter never done this before and don't know if I want take this to that level. One big mess. But it would seem to me to do a complete auto trans service one would have to drop the pan and change filter since there is old tranny fluid in the filter and pan. Now just have to find out how to do that part
The rear end has to be easier I hope just drain and change and 2 bolts? No pan removal?
But that is another picture
So then like the first engine oil change to get out the metal shavings after its broken in it is the same with the two above components the auto trans and the rear differential?:QUOTE]
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:18 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Driver_WT
My dealer says put in anything except Dexron III and they will void my warranty, even though the car does not shift that great.
Royal Purple is DEXTRON III. No problems here

It is really slippery stuff. Makes the car shift a little smoother
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by LS WON
On the 2005 corvetee A-4 transmission is the heavier duty 4L65E transmission?
I think so. My manual is only for the 05 model year, and the title in that section says 4L60-E/4L65-E.

Originally Posted by LS WON
Is it alot easier to have the shop or Chevy do this complete Trans service since they have the tools, parts and lift for it. How much does
this transmission service cost?
I agree. If I had that tranny, I'd probably just pay the dealer to do a complete flush with that machine, since it will change about twice as much fluid out as this method will. And I'd bring in my own fluid too.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
I think so. My manual is only for the 05 model year, and the title in that section says 4L60-E/4L65-E.


I agree. If I had that tranny, I'd probably just pay the dealer to do a complete flush with that machine, since it will change about twice as much fluid out as this method will. And I'd bring in my own fluid too.
So your stealership will let you bring whatever trans fluid you prefer? Not the factory fill?
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:38 PM
  #37  
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I don't know, I've never asked. I'm sure most will, and as long as they meet the specs called for in the manual, I don't see why anyone wouldn't.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
I don't know, I've never asked. I'm sure most will, and as long as they meet the specs called for in the manual, I don't see why anyone wouldn't.
Let us know what the cost of this service is since you are also in California. It probably does involve removal of pan, replace filter and fluid. What mileage interval will you do it at?
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 04:10 PM
  #39  
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SHELL MTX fluid is GM # 12345349 approved and recommended. Also GM spec # 9985648.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NORTY
SHELL MTX fluid is GM # 12345349 approved and recommended. Also GM spec # 9985648.
How about Redline?
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