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C6 cooling problem?

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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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Default C6 cooling problem?

This past weekend I drained enough coolant out of the cooling system so I could add a bottle of Redline waterwetter. I then started the car to get it up to temp to make sure the Redline was circulated throughout the cooling system. However, as the coolant temp rose, it seemed to just keep getting hotter. Within a couple minutes it had reached 216 degrees and the cooling fan had not come on once. Can anybody tell me at what temp. is the cooling fan supposed to come on? As a matter of fact, I have never heard the cooling fan come on at all. However, when I drove it later that day, the temp never went above 206, but most of the time I was moving and pushing air through the radiator. I would just like to know if this could be a potential problem or is this normal. Thanks in advance for any help on this, vette54.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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Did you refill with coolant, or distilled water. Didn't think that any water wetter product worked well with coolant. Probably a waste of money, using it with coolant. Think a better choice would have been a 160* t'stst with cooling fans adjustment thru the computer. My car runs in the hi-170* range with the 160* t'stat at highway speeds. Just my $0.02.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.my fan does not come on till dic reads 216, then cycles off @ 212, 06 C6, mn6, z51
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 09:26 AM
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Sounds like you got an air bubble in the system, try and blled it. There is a bleed screw on the T-housing
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by EuroRod
Did you refill with coolant, or distilled water. Didn't think that any water wetter product worked well with coolant. Probably a waste of money, using it with coolant. Think a better choice would have been a 160* t'stst with cooling fans adjustment thru the computer. My car runs in the hi-170* range with the 160* t'stat at highway speeds. Just my $0.02.
It still helps some, but the less coolant you use, the better it works. The following is from their tech info. They tested an iron chevy 350 with aluminum heads, a 160 stat and ran it for 3 hours at 7200rpm.

50/50 228deg
50/50 + water wetter 220deg
water 220deg
water + water wetter 202deg

http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf

I use it in my bike with just water. Since that cooling system is so small, I still have most of the bottle left over from flushing it last week. I'll probably put it in the Vette, and if I drain the system I'll still use coolant, but less than 50%.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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And Redline Water Wetter isn't only to help the motor run slightly cooler, it's also a wetting agent that helps increase surface/contact area and helps in inhibiting corrosion as well.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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Just using water alone your car will run cooler if you want to take that risk.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LS WON
Just using water alone your car will run cooler if you want to take that risk.
I remember hearing from a friend with a Viper down in South Florida a few years back about how some of the Viper guys were using straight water with a few bottles of Water Wetter year round with great results.
The real risk is in the northern states/colder months....can't do that here in NJ.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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I am actually going this route when I put in my electric water pump, in vegas the possiblity of needing antifreeze is slim to none and it sure will help when the temp pegs 120.

I also agree with the others, are you sure its not an air bubble?
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by EuroRod
Did you refill with coolant, or distilled water. Didn't think that any water wetter product worked well with coolant. Probably a waste of money, using it with coolant.
The company I worked for ran some dyno cell tests on wetting agents in cooling systems. I don't have the data but remember that Redline Water Wetter performed about as calimed, icluding in a coolant/water mix. Note that redline doesn't claim as much improvement with a coolant water mix.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LS WON
Just using water alone your car will run cooler if you want to take that risk.
How will the water pump be lubicated with just water- Alsothere is no rust inhibitor in plain water could be a problem unless that additive contains both.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by c6vette
How will the water pump be lubicated with just water- Alsothere is no rust inhibitor in plain water could be a problem unless that additive contains both.
I thought the water pump had sealed bearings.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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There is a special way that you have to bleed the system.
You have to do this a couple of times until the temp's regulate.
Or something like that... Just had my Mod guys put in a 160 degree t-stat and they had to bleed it, heat it up, bleed it again and then it regulated.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by c6vette
How will the water pump be lubicated with just water
Originally Posted by rwpatte
I thought the water pump had sealed bearings.
You're right Patte, I just happened to read that in the service manual last night.

Originally Posted by c6vette
Alsothere is no rust inhibitor in plain water could be a problem unless that additive contains both.
As LS1LT1 said, WW does provide rust/corrosion protection, which makes it ok to use without any coolant. Although Redline reccomends to run at least a little bit of coolant in street cars to reduce the freezing point.

Originally Posted by GooseyGoose
There is a special way that you have to bleed the system.
You have to do this a couple of times until the temp's regulate.
Or something like that... Just had my Mod guys put in a 160 degree t-stat and they had to bleed it, heat it up, bleed it again and then it regulated.
Also true. For just a drain and fill, drain the radiator, fill the system through the surge tank, start the engine and let the thermostat open, and add more water/mix as the air gets released from the system. For a complete flush, you repeat the procedure until the fluid draining from the radiator is clean/fresh.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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One of the guys (I think ShopDog) came up with a great procedure. I used it and it worked great. Fill as much as you can, take off the hose that goes to the front of the heads, put your finger over the overflow hose and your mouth over the place where you pour in the antifreeze and BLOW. Keep putting more antifreeze in until that when you blow antifreeze come out of the hose you took off. Put the hose back on and top off. I know it sounds funny, but it works.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 01:05 AM
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Not sure I understand why a 160 therm will help keep it cooler? If the normal temp is higher than the oem therm what good will a lower setting therm do? The temp will not be held down by a valve that opens sooner. I can see where at first it will open sooner to alow flow sooner but the temp will still climb to what ever it did before as long as it was running higher than the 190 that is stock. ie if normal temp is 205 it will be 205 no matter what therm you install (160 or 190). What am I missing here?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimailer
Not sure I understand why a 160 therm will help keep it cooler? If the normal temp is higher than the oem therm what good will a lower setting therm do? The temp will not be held down by a valve that opens sooner. I can see where at first it will open sooner to alow flow sooner but the temp will still climb to what ever it did before as long as it was running higher than the 190 that is stock. ie if normal temp is 205 it will be 205 no matter what therm you install (160 or 190). What am I missing here?

It will run cooler if you are at speed, but if you want it to run cooler in traffic, you have to reset the fan on temps.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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The lower thermostat thing seems to be one of those debateable mods that people will never agree on. At least for a stock/almost stock car.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mlongo99
The lower thermostat thing seems to be one of those debateable mods that people will never agree on. At least for a stock/almost stock car.
In Hot Climates it's probably worth it. I lost 18 hp on back to back dyno pulls on a stock car. I ran a week later and didn't not lose any power on back to back runs after doing the 160 stat.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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If my memory serves me correctly, the water pump has a mechanical seal that is lubricated by the coolant in the system. The seal and the bearing are one, thus it get lubed by the coolant.

But I could be wrong, it has been 20 years since I worked for a waterpump co.
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