Is there only one drain plug on this transmission which is on the driver's side?

 

 

A bump for you. I can look in the shop manual this evening if all else fails and find your answer.

 

Yes, there's only one.

 

Only one plug that I can find on drivers side so the pan probably has to be removed and filter and powerflushed. I only have 11,080 on 2005 C-6.
Anyway main reason I'm wondering if I will notice any difference by switching to a synthetic auto trans fluid for the A-4 instead of the non synthetic fluid Dexron III (H) that comes from the factory. Will the synthetic make the auto shift better or give it more protection from heat? Run cooler? When I used REDLINE MTL on my other car which is a 5 spd. it made the difference between selling and keeping the car and now 18 years later I still have the car with REDLINE in it like cutting a piece of cake made it that smooth but that is in a manual. I'm not sure if it will have any benefits I can feel or tell with REDLINE synthetic for the 4 spd. auto?

 

 

Procedure for changing fluid (bold are my comments):
1. Raise and jack....
2. Place a drip pan under transmission.
3. Clean any dirt from around the transmission check/fill plug. (this is shown as being on driver side of pan toward the rear)
4. Remove the the transmission check/fill plug and allow fluid to drain.
5. Support the transmission oil pan.
6. Remove the transmission oil pan bolts.
7. Loosely reinstall the fluid check/fill plug.
8. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry gently in order to loosen the pan.
9. Remove the transmission oil pan.
10. Drain remaining fluid from the oil pan.
11. Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter.
12. Remove filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal.
13. Discard the seal.
14. Inpect transmission fluid.
15. Inspect transmission fluid filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart.

Installation is reverse
There is a step to check conical washers on pan bolts to make sure they are not reversed. Small portion of conical washer should be toward bolt head, otherwise replace bolts and washers.
Pan bolts - 11 N-m (97 lb in)
Check fill plug - 30 N-m (22 lb ft)
Filling fluid: Fill till it runs out, then warm it up moving shift lever through all ranges and then check and fill while warm and running through the check/fill plug.

 

Thanks for the info very informative best info I have got here so far. But it is beyond my capabilities so I will have dealer do complete transmission service at 25,000 this with powerflush, drop pan, change filter and add the Dexron III (G) fluid all for a bit over $200.00.
Should I decide to have them add Redline Transmission fluid instead of the regular Dexron III The REDLINE will cost me an extra $150 just for the fluid unless I can get REDLINE on sale which is very doubtful.

 

 

Yes, synthetics can be just as beneficial in an auto as they are in your manual but only IF the trans is designed for/capable of handling synthetics.
Many people have warned against using synthetic trans fluid in the 4L60E/4L65E but I have yet to get a definitive answer on it so please consider that as well.

 

Dexron is a synthetic, but one with a very particular chemistry designed to be compatible with the transmission's wet clutches and seals. Do not substitute off-brand fluids.

 

Like REDLINE?
Isn't Dexron III (H) a regular non synthetic fluid?
Sounds to me then keep it factory or find the equivalents to the Dexron III (H). Perhaps Mobil One has a tranny fluid for the 4L65E? What would be a good equivalent if you aren't able to get Dexron III (H) from Chevrolet?
I would think any good parts store would carry this Dexron III (H) except I thought it was just regular non synthetic fluid.

 

Is it? I thought that maybe the new Dexron IV (or is it Dexron V or VI now?) for the 6L80E/A6 might've been but I still can't see ALL those Dexron tranny fluids on the shelves at auto parts stores and selling for a mere $1.89 a quart being a full synthetic.

 

Exactly my point. REDLINE is about $7.95 a quart and the auto trans is 12 quarts. I would think that the REDLINE is the superior fluid though this Dexron IV is suppose to be good for 160,000 miles?

 

It's Dexron VI and it is supposedly synthetic.

 

So is it any better than REDLINE?

 

I highly doubt from a technology/lubricity/longevity standpoint that it's better than Redline/Amsoil/Mobil synthetics but as far as suitability to our transmissions it may very be the better choice.
I'm a big fan of synthetics in all areas of the car but I've just heard a few horror stories of using it in certain applications.

 

Sounds like you are saying stay with the factory mix or improvements.
I have used synthetic oil in older cars and found out that it leaked all over the place on the engine. talk about nightmares ended up having to get all new valve cover gaskets a few times.

 

I agree with Shopdog on this issue.

It's hard for me to imagine how small specialty companies with short experience histories and limited resources can deliver a product that is technologically superior to major refiners, from whom they no doubt buy the base blending stocks. Do they have a little old genius in a lab coat working in the back room that comes up with a magic formula that is better than those of corporate laboratories and GM?

LSWON, good advice would be to just drive your Corvette, and forget about trying to fix what ain't broke. Cooler and smoother than it is now?...Snake oil salesmen always will sell you something better to "fix" your car. Your car will probably need a fluid change in about ten years...use the Dexron VI (or whatever they're using) then.

 

I know Mobil One is a big company but REDLINE and AMSOIL are also very well known reputable products perhaps considered more high end but they are much more difficult to find and do cost more at roughly $7.95 to 8.95 per qt. than mobil One.
Well you know how **** us Corvette people can be just like parking in a public lot.
I just want to make everything last as long as possible and get the best product possible.
Thus by just driving it I will probably save lots of $$$$ by not end up buying expensive unnecessary stuff so you are probably right in this respect plus less chance of some mechanic messing something up in the process of putting in these fluids.