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I see that slp callaway and lingenfelter all use a 160 stat.Any + or- to using one.
REPLY: The only drawback i can see is if you live /drive your vette in a cold climate as it will take longer to heat your cab. Ive had a 160f. from day one almost, and , it works very well. Not only on mild days...but even on hot days too ; had the vette out last weekend when it was 88 f outside and the Coolant Temp maintained 176-180 f going down the Interstate at 70 mph in 5th gear (2000 rpms approx). Even being in town during normal slower driving, i didnt see higher than 185 f. when it was 88 f out. The C6's Cooling System is very effective . It lowers your oil temps a bit too --- maintained 198-200 f. on the highway going 70 mph/88 f outside. I highly recommend it especially if you are in a hot climate or do alot of spirited driving/autocross/racing, etc...
I ran back to back dyno pulls with an almost stock A6 (just had K&N Inlet). Ran 334 hp the first pull, then did only 316 hp on the second pull. Car was getting hot and pulled a lot of timing at 3200 rpm. Outside temp was around 100 F.
I put in the 160 stat along with some LG headers. Did back to back pulls again. First pull netted 359 hp, second pull netted 360 hp. The only bad thing is that the outside air temp was around 96 F, so it was a little cooler, but not by much.
So my conclusion was the 160 stat made my car much more consistent.
I ran back to back dyno pulls with an almost stock A6 (just had K&N Inlet). Ran 334 hp the first pull, then did only 316 hp on the second pull. Car was getting hot and pulled a lot of timing at 3200 rpm. Outside temp was around 100 F.
I put in the 160 stat along with some LG headers. Did back to back pulls again. First pull netted 359 hp, second pull netted 360 hp. The only bad thing is that the outside air temp was around 96 F, so it was a little cooler, but not by much.
So my conclusion was the 160 stat made my car much more consistent.
becareful the god of 12 sec c6 jimman will come and tell us on all the books or articles that he has authored on why stock stat will be the only way to go.
Thanks I live in central Florida,it's warm most of the year.
REPLY: Your welcome Gene. If i lived in Central FLA, what id do to my Vette is run 25% Coolant to 75% distilled water with a bottle of Redline Water Wetter ... in addition to the 160 f. thermostat. Youd really improve the Cooling Systems capability then for those blistering hot days in traffic.
becareful the god of 12 sec c6 jimman will come and tell us on all the books or articles that he has authored on why stock stat will be the only way to go.
I see that slp callaway and lingenfelter all use a 160 stat.Any + or- to using one.
The primary negative is that a 160 stat will be wide open long before then engine reaches normal operating temperature. That means the stat can't regulate engine temperature by controlling water flow, and engine temperatures will vary much more widely depending on the airflow through the radiator and the load on the engine than would be the case if the thermostat was working in its design range.
There's a roughly 15 degree span where an automotive thermostat is not fully closed or fully open. It is that span where the thermostat can exercise control. That span needs to fall right smack in the middle of the normal operating temperature range of the engine/radiator in the car. Coolant temperatures in a fully warmed up C6 will never fall below 175 degrees, so a car with a 160 stat will act like a car with a thermostat which is stuck open.
The reason this is important from a tuning standpoint is that optimum spark advance and fuel mixtures are sensitive to combustion chamber, piston head, and cylinder wall temperature. By using an essentially stuck open thermostat, these temperatures will vary over a greater span under varying driving conditions, and a tune that's optimized for one engine load/speed can be far from optimum when the temperature varies wildly at a different load/speed.
Unless you're going to install a larger radiator, the thermostat in a C6 should be at least 180 degrees so that it will have control authority over the temperature span where the engine will normally operate.
The primary negative is that a 160 stat will be wide open long before then engine reaches normal operating temperature. That means the stat can't regulate engine temperature by controlling water flow, and engine temperatures will vary much more widely depending on the airflow through the radiator and the load on the engine than would be the case if the thermostat was working in its design range.
There's a roughly 15 degree span where an automotive thermostat is not fully closed or fully open. It is that span where the thermostat can exercise control. That span needs to fall right smack in the middle of the normal operating temperature range of the engine/radiator in the car. Coolant temperatures in a fully warmed up C6 will never fall below 175 degrees, so a car with a 160 stat will act like a car with a thermostat which is stuck open.
The reason this is important from a tuning standpoint is that optimum spark advance and fuel mixtures are sensitive to combustion chamber, piston head, and cylinder wall temperature. By using an essentially stuck open thermostat, these temperatures will vary over a greater span under varying driving conditions, and a tune that's optimized for one engine load/speed can be far from optimum when the temperature varies wildly at a different load/speed.
Unless you're going to install a larger radiator, the thermostat in a C6 should be at least 180 degrees so that it will have control authority over the temperature span where the engine will normally operate.
The thermostat MTI (Atlanta) is going to install in my car begins to open at 160 and does not open fully until 180. I do not know the manufacturer or name of the therm. but will get that information as soon as I can. This "sounds" to me like it would address the concerns shopdog raises?
Has anyone actually used this 180* stat in the C6? I'm not sure about the C6s but I know on my previous car that in the colder winter months, my car did nor run as well with a 160* stat as it did with a 180*. It would almost never reach operating temperature for optimal performance. Living in north jersey, I would be more inclined to go with the 180*
Has anyone actually used this 180* stat in the C6? I'm not sure about the C6s but I know on my previous car that in the colder winter months, my car did nor run as well with a 160* stat as it did with a 180*. It would almost never reach operating temperature for optimal performance. Living in north jersey, I would be more inclined to go with the 180*
Stock Thermostat is 86C which is 187 F, so it's pretty darn close to 180.
Stock Thermostat is 86C which is 187 F, so it's pretty darn close to 180.
Thats what I thought. So would a better way to go to be to have a tune to change the fan on cycle? anyone know what stock on/off is?
Just sold my 96 Z28 after only three days, I'm a little bummed Hate to see it go.... but, I guess I'll just go cry in the c6 until I shift into 2nd at 6500 rpm.... Only thing left is my name and a lot of great memories...
Last edited by jsk96z28; Jun 21, 2006 at 09:20 PM.
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