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Intake Manifold swap caution

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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 05:38 PM
  #1  
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Default Intake Manifold swap caution

I've seen a new issue today that I've never seen happen before and I wanted to share it so others can be cautious.

When tightening down an intake manifold bolt it was noted that the "post" that the intake bolt goes through started to mushroom out under the bolt as it was tightened down. This occured while using a torque wrench set at 7.5 lbs (89 in/lbs is the spec). I've never even heard of this happening before. The bolt jsut continued ot draw down and never exceeded the torque setting... no "click."

In any event, take care when swapping out intakes and retorquing them down. Just pay close attention to the bolts and how they draw down. Apparently at least one is capable of being damaged in this way.

Now, if it is too late and you have some mushrooming you can use a oversized washer to spread the load a little better over the entire surface and retighten.

Personally, I will no longer be using the torque wrench for this procedure. Simply tight will be good enough and will keep you aware of what is going on rather than simply focusing on the "click."
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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I wondered if that would happen on the Vette's too. That is a common problem with the 3.8-K motors. The higher the mileage/heat cycles the better the chance is of splitting those posts. Snug with a 1/4 inch drive is good enough for those bolts.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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Define snug. Do you mean tighten down the intake manifold bolts evenly by hand then add an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn?
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GMautotech
I wondered if that would happen on the Vette's too. That is a common problem with the 3.8-K motors. The higher the mileage/heat cycles the better the chance is of splitting those posts. Snug with a 1/4 inch drive is good enough for those bolts.
This intake was brand new on a first install. I ordered it and ported it to add it to my inventory.

I would agree with the 1/4 drive or simply "choke-up" on the 3/8 drive so you hand is on the ratchet point. Run it down to snug and give it just a little more. 1/4-1/2 turn should do fine in my opinion. The gaskets on these are quite thick and one need only compress them evenly to obtain a seal.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Was that my intake you were working on?
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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No. It was a local install of the ported intake.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by achilds
Was that my intake you were working on?
lol, that would be a messed up way to find out it was yours.

P.S. charris85vette thanks for the advice on the intake porting I had. I installed it today and it works great, thanks again
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Abomination
P.S. charris85vette thanks for the advice on the intake porting I had. I installed it today and it works great, thanks again
No problem on the porting info... you're very welcome.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by achilds
Define snug. Do you mean tighten down the intake manifold bolts evenly by hand then add an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn?
If you tighten the bolts down by hand you can feel when the gaskets stop compressing. At that point I would go 1/4 to 1/2 turn more like CHarris85Vette said.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by achilds
Was that my intake you were working on?
No, it was my intake...but I was right there with Cory watching and the torque wrench never clicked...the post just starting muchrooming. Luckily, I was on the other side looking in and noticed it quickly...so not a big issue. Just be carefull. The bolts are a pretty fine thread, so you would have to turn a few complete revolutions past the danger point to mess them up...just dont put your trust in the torque wrench on these...or at least not the ones that have the metal sleeves (only 6 of them do).

PS - and Cory offered to replace the intake without hesitation... I wasn't worried about it... He does great work and offers great customer service.. I would definitely do it again... especially since the mishap happened when he was installing my intake for me... should have been my job. Thanks Cory!!

Last edited by robotpedlr; Jul 10, 2006 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by robotpedlr
No, it was my intake...but I was right there with Cory watching and the torque wretch never clicked...the post just starting muchrooming. Luckily, I was on the other side looking in and noticed it quickly...so not a big issue. Just be carefull. The bolts are a pretty fine thread, so you would have to turn a few complete revolutions past the danger point to mess them up...just dont put your trust in the torque wrench on these...or at least not the ones that have the metal sleeves (only 6 of them do).

PS - and Cory offered to replace the intake without hesitation... I wasn't worried about it... He does great work and offers great customer service.. I would definitely do it again... especially since the mishap happened when he was installing my intake for me... should have been my job. Thanks Cory!!
I was just joking around with my post. I have spoken with Cory a couple of times and he seems to be a straight up guy. I am looking forward to getting my intake next week so I can carefully install it. When I am done I will put up a post regarding the intake. Unfortunately I will not be dynoing the car until I put headers on it so the results will be for both mods.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 05:59 PM
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I glad you're happy, Mark. I always try hard to do the right thing. I also like to share my hard lessons so maybe someone else doesn't have to!

I was thinking more about the potential "shroom" issue. If it happened to a guy he could cut off an inch or so (however much was required) of the damaged post and simply buy a shorter bolt for it. No real harm done. Those posts are very long and don't really need to be. Cosmetically, the issue is hidden by the Fuel Rail Cover, so again, no real harm done.

Just be cautious.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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Thanks for the info!
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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Just use the proper tools, If you had used an inch pound tq wrench you would have had a click.I have found that most ft pound tq wrenches do not stay accurate at that low of setting.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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I agree. A 150 Ft. Lb. torque wrench will not be accurate below 20 Ft.Lbs. Most of them are now labeled 20-150 for that reason.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Cavallo GT
I agree. A 150 Ft. Lb. torque wrench will not be accurate below 20 Ft.Lbs. Most of them are now labeled 20-150 for that reason.
It was a 0-80 ft lb wrench that is in proper calibration. I actually have the calibration lab at my workplace check my tools periodically. I do appreciate you pointing out that possible deficiency, though. It might help another.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by C6400hp
Just use the proper tools, If you had used an inch pound tq wrench you would have had a click.I have found that most ft pound tq wrenches do not stay accurate at that low of setting.
I agree. I've installed lots of LS1/LS6/LS2 manifolds with the proper inch/lb wrench, and never had an issue. A 0-80 ft/lbs wrench doesn't seem like a good choice for 86 in/lbs.
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