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Just had my Cam installed 2 weeks ago and ever since the day I got the car back the clutch peddal has been falling to the floor after I get on it. Thought it might be the hydrolics and I bled the master and put new fluid in it. Looks like its the pressure plate. The car will go right back to shifting and driving normal as soon as pull the pedal off the floor. Spoke to the dealer and from what I understand I am still owed a new clutch under warranty if it is a presure plate problem. The clutch still grabs great and has not slipped once since the cam install. I am thinking its just the 60 extra HP thats putting a strain or more heat on those springs at high RPM. I did go ahead and buy an LS7 clutch. My (mod friendly) dealer says I should take the new LS2 clutch first since there is a recall on it. Do you guys think I should take this clutch or not. The dealer says if the problem persist after the new clutch then they will put the LS7 clutch in labor free as long as I supply parts. Has any else had these types of problems with their LS2 clutch after adding power. I used to hear this all the time in my LS1, but have heard no one on this board talk about the LS2 clutch falling to the floor.
There's a TSB regarding the "clutch pedal on the floor" issue. I'm still running the stock clutch, and I've got 200HP over stock at the crank with no issues yet @ 44K mi. (actually, it seems to slip LESS than before the mods). So I don't think the extra power is the issue.
I am having an issue with the clutch SLAVE however, and I'm hoping to get my extended warranty company (American Mercury) to cover it. When it comes apart, I'm doing a SPEC-3+ clutch and steel flywheel.
Out of curiosity - HOW did you bleed the clutch hydraulics, when the bleeder is on the SLAVE (buried in the bell housing).
FYI - Horsepower Sales (and probably other vendors too) has a bleeder extension that can be installed on the slave (when it's apart) so it can be bled without pulling the whole car apart.
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
as sickrick says, there is a tsb for early '05s with 'clutch pedal doesn't return at high rpm shifts 6k+'.
i just had mine done, 35904 miles. the tech said it's the same part number as the original, i'm hoping they redesigned it and fixed the issue. i just haven't gotten the time to run the car hard to find out if the new clutch is any stronger. the tsb refers to weak return springs in the clutch. centrifugal forces exceed return strength and keep the clutch engaged until rpms drop below 4k or so.
as sickrick says, there is a tsb for early '05s with 'clutch pedal doesn't return at high rpm shifts 6k+'.
i just had mine done, 35904 miles. the tech said it's the same part number as the original, i'm hoping they redesigned it and fixed the issue. i just haven't gotten the time to run the car hard to find out if the new clutch is any stronger. the tsb refers to weak return springs in the clutch. centrifugal forces exceed return strength and keep the clutch engaged until rpms drop below 4k or so.
I've been looking for this TSB for the 05 but all I can find is the one for the 2006 models. Does anyone know the TSB for the 2005 problems at 6k+ shifts?
Just had my Cam installed 2 weeks ago and ever since the day I got the car back the clutch peddal has been falling to the floor after I get on it. Thought it might be the hydrolics and I bled the master and put new fluid in it. Looks like its the pressure plate. The car will go right back to shifting and driving normal as soon as pull the pedal off the floor. Spoke to the dealer and from what I understand I am still owed a new clutch under warranty if it is a presure plate problem. The clutch still grabs great and has not slipped once since the cam install. I am thinking its just the 60 extra HP thats putting a strain or more heat on those springs at high RPM. I did go ahead and buy an LS7 clutch. My (mod friendly) dealer says I should take the new LS2 clutch first since there is a recall on it. Do you guys think I should take this clutch or not. The dealer says if the problem persist after the new clutch then they will put the LS7 clutch in labor free as long as I supply parts. Has any else had these types of problems with their LS2 clutch after adding power. I used to hear this all the time in my LS1, but have heard no one on this board talk about the LS2 clutch falling to the floor.
I just installed the LS7 clutch and had it balanced with a fidanza C6 flywheel. No matter what you hear from people dont beleive for a second that the LS7 is balanced when you get it. The machine shop that I deal with for years zero balanced the flywheel first and then the pressure plate. They said the pressure plate was one of the worst ones they have seen to date. It wasnt even close. The orientation to the flywheel isnt marked in any way with the steel wheel and therefore the rumors of it being zero balanced to a zero balanced flywheel when you receive it are false.
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
I just installed the LS7 clutch and had it balanced with a fidanza C6 flywheel. No matter what you hear from people dont beleive for a second that the LS7 is balanced when you get it. The machine shop that I deal with for years zero balanced the flywheel first and then the pressure plate. They said the pressure plate was one of the worst ones they have seen to date. It wasnt even close. The orientation to the flywheel isnt marked in any way with the steel wheel and therefore the rumors of it being zero balanced to a zero balanced flywheel when you receive it are false.
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by Brett Hunter
I've been looking for this TSB for the 05 but all I can find is the one for the 2006 models. Does anyone know the TSB for the 2005 problems at 6k+ shifts?
let me know if this is the one you already found. i didn't know '06s have a clutch tsb.
Originally Posted by VetteShop
Some have inquired:
Clutch Pedal Does Not Return to Up Position During Shifts at High Engine RPMs (Inspect Date Code and Replace Clutch Kit) #05-07-31-001 - (Apr 8, 2005)
Clutch Pedal Does Not Return to Up Position During Shifts at High Engine RPMs (Inspect Date Code and Replace Clutch Kit)
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
2005 Chevrolet Corvette, SSR
with Tremec T56 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPOs M10, M12, MM6)
Condition
Some customers may comment that while shifting at engine speeds greater then 6000 RPMs, the clutch pedal does not return to the up position. As the engine speed decreases, the clutch pedal will return to the up position.
Cause
It is possible that when the engine speed is greater than 6000 RPM and the clutch pedal is depressed, centrifugal loads on the clutch diaphragm spring may be greater than the clutch return load from the diaphragm spring. This force created by RPM would be directionally opposite to the clutch bearing force, causing a near net zero or less than zero return force. As a consequence, the clutch pedal may be stuck at the bottom of travel at the floor. Once the engine speed reduces to less than 6000 RPM, spring return load dominates and the clutch pedal returns to normal function.
Correction
Inspect the clutch date code and replace the clutch kit if built PRIOR to the following date code:
• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR
• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette
Remove the transmission to inspect the date code on the clutch pressure plate (4). Refer to the applicable procedure below:
- Corvette -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (SI Document ID #1399532)
- CTS-V -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (CTS-V) (Document ID #1453054)
- SSR -- Clutch Assembly Replacement (SI Document ID #1581481)
Important:
The suspect clutches were built PRIOR to the following date codes:
• 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR
• 4M13A/B/C for Corvette
The date code is located on the pressure plate cover as shown above.
Replace the clutch kit (see part list below) if the date code on the pressure plate is PRIOR to the following date code:
- 4M21A/B/C for CTS-V and SSR
- 4M13A/B/C for Corvette
The date codes are interpreted as follows:
- The first character is the year.
• 4 = 2004
• 5 = 2005
- The second character is the build month.
Important: The letter J is not used in the month code.
• January = A
• February = B
• March = C
• April = D
• May = E
• June = F
• July = G
• August = H
• September = I
• October = K
• November = L
• December =M
- The third character is the day of the month.
- Important: It is possible that the fourth digit, the shift code, may not be present on the date code. The shift code does not pay a critical part in determining a suspect clutch kit.
The fourth, and final, character is the shift code = A/B/C.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
12581713
Plate Asm, CLU Press & DRVN (W/CVR)
(CTS-V and SSR)
1
24233084
Plate Asm, CLU Press & DRVN (W/CVR)
(Corvette)
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
The fidanza is 17 pounds lighter and frees up power usually lost in the drive train. It is the same shape as the stock flywheel. The C5 flywheel fits the car if you want to use any of the proven C5 clutches. If it is for street use and you dont do clutch dumps get the LS7 clutch.
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
The fidanza is 17 pounds lighter and frees up power usually lost in the drive train.
that's why i asked about the weight. 17 lbs. is a bunch.
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
It is the same shape as the stock flywheel. The C5 flywheel fits the car if you want to use any of the proven C5 clutches. If it is for street use and you dont do clutch dumps get the LS7 clutch.
uummm...i can have a tendancy to be rough on clutches.
i want / need something that's gonna hold up to 6k+ shifts, but doesn't require 'Ahnold' thighs.
i've had mine replaced under the tsb but i'm thinking about 'upgrading'.
something that is lighter than stock but stronger.
Spec 3+. I have about 1200 miles and 15 track passes on it. Pedal is lighter than stock. I just replaced it after the dealer gave me trouble since they said the TSB was for a 2005 and not a 06.
that's why i asked about the weight. 17 lbs. is a bunch.
uummm...i can have a tendancy to be rough on clutches.
i want / need something that's gonna hold up to 6k+ shifts, but doesn't require 'Ahnold' thighs.
i've had mine replaced under the tsb but i'm thinking about 'upgrading'.
something that is lighter than stock but stronger.
I didnt say you couldnt shift at 6800 as I do that. I said it isnt the right clutch to dump it at 6k rpms.
The best clutch is the textrailia and it is 1050 with the aluminum flywheel and comes fully balanced. If you get any clutch it will run 400 and up and the flywheel is about the same. Add 100 to balance the assembly and you're at 900 bucks. For another 150 you can have the best one for street use.
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
I didnt say you couldnt shift at 6800 as I do that. I said it isnt the right clutch to dump it at 6k rpms.
please explain, i almost followed you.
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
The best clutch is the textrailia and it is 1050 with the aluminum flywheel and comes fully balanced. If you get any clutch it will run 400 and up and the flywheel is about the same. Add 100 to balance the assembly and you're at 900 bucks. For another 150 you can have the best one for street use.
i agree, if you're gonna spend the money might as well get the best bang for the buck.
i was a bit dissapointed when i was checking out some of the spec stage clutches. i think it was the stage 2 that said it held up to multiple 4k launches. well, not too impressed.