Guys, I found this laying on the floor mat, I looked up and all the springs look like they are still there! What's this from? I also got a code, Clutch switch, could this be why?

Thanks

 

part of the clutch spring... I took mine out of the car 15,000 miles ago, the clutch engagement feels much better without it, to my foot, as well as many others that have done the same... just pull the rest of it out. It will be a little more stiff to push than before, but you won't have that midline breakover feel when releasing the clutch...
Jeremy

 

Yep, most likely. Part of the clutch return spring, I'd bet. Its that double-coil thingy on the clutch pedal. I'd guess that one end broke, and it is interefering with the switch.

Here's a picture of what (we think) it should look like:


Notice the two ends that go into the bracket on either side - I'm guessing that one of yours broke off.

 

It is not recommended to remove the clutch pedal spring. If the spring fractures it should be replaced.

The over center spring returns the clutch pedal to the very top of the its travel to expose the compensation port. Also, the clutch spring provides for a desired tactile clutch feel.

Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to "hang in" an at some rest position with the piston just short of the compensation port. If the internal pressure is not vented, the clutch compensation port may get stroked too far and the clutch hydraulic system may fail. The clutch pedal must be in the "full up" or out position, with the compensation port exposed, to bleed the hydraulic clutch fluid as intended.

Removing the clutch return spring may cause poor shifting, improper clutch release or damage to the transmission synchros.

 

Thanks all! I looked up and saw the spring was still there, just didn't think to look at where it hooked!

 

The gas pedal also has spring under it. Here's a pic:



Tom

 

Yep, same thing happend to me after about 15k miles. One minute to replace and 1 hour to wait at dealer.

 

Several of us have done this mod to our C6's... Those that have taken the spring out, have had nothing but good to say... It is NOT a RETURN spring... It actually makes the clutch easier to depress, by assisting actuation... Those of us that do this mod, want a more positive return, and a more linear feel... You may believe what you wish...
Jeremy

 

According to GM it also helps in return;


"The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles. This is not a good practice and we need to discourage it.

Recommendation/Instructions:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles. This is not a good practice and we need to discourage it.

One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port. The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel.

Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang in an at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port. If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result.
The C5 clutch hydraulic systems were built by AP. The C6 systems were manufactured by FTE. Also, the pedal must be in the full up position, with the compensation port exposed, to bleed properly.

Anytime a dealer gets a hydraulic system complaint, the tech should inspect to insure that the spring is in place and properly connected. Related customer complaints might include poor shift performance, improper clutch release or transmission synchronizer damage."

 

I only believe in data and facts, not opinions.

 

And experience...My point exactly...

 

The spring actually holds the clutch back by 1/8 inch from a "full out" stroke... taking the spring out makes the clutch spring return MUCH faster and further out from standard...Sounds like the tech that wrote this doesn't know the car very well, they are prone to mistakes as well...we're only Human...
Jeremy

 

Fact - when my clutch spring broke my clutch became firmer and I had to adjust my seat back a tiny bit to compensate for the clutch returning to a higher position.

The "feel" of the clutch underfoot increased. I do not think everyone will like the increased pessure required to operate the clutch but those used to an American Perfromance Cars will like it, IMO

 

sorry guys, i am with mr. big and midnite on this one, i took it out to see what it is like and attempted to put in back in. if you have tried this you will noticed GM is dead wrong on this one as a return spring. if this is a return spring the clutch should be lighter once the spring is off, but this isn't the case. as you try to put the spring back in with the clutch pedal all the way up / not depressed. it is impossible to do without any special tool, but if some one were to depress the clutch all the way down and you attempt to put the spring back in, you will notice it will be much easier since the spring DOESN'T have to be stretch as far as compare to if the pedal were not depress at all. sorry to disagree with GM data, but i am speaking from actual experience, don't believe me, try it for yourself and discover the truth.

 

Midnite & Cbr to the rescue!!! LOL...
Jeremy

 

What your saying is unproven and that GM has been seeing clutch failures and found that springs had been taken off so tha PI was sent out in June for a good reason and will void warranty if its off.

I would rather believe GM understands their design rather then others saying just yank it.
I had it off for 3 months and for 1 it does not prevent pedal sticking and 2 with the spring in the pedal feel is smoother and shifts are better
I suggest reading that PI again and understanding how it effects fluid movement.
Same goes for drilling out the orfice in slave line for that did not prevent sticking pedal ether

 

hi boosted_z06, i am assuming you have a c6 z06, is it possible the z06 are not the same as c6? the reason that i am asking is, since you took yours off for 3 months and i assume that you had put the spring back. did you notice while putting it back if the pedal is all the way up and you attempt to put the spring back in, you would really have to STRETCH the spring vs if the pedal is depressed all the way? was i the only one that notice that? did you noticed the samething? if you did, can i assume that you agree that is not a return spring then? more like a spring that help driver depress the heavy clutch instead? 2nd, if you can agree that this is a spring that help ease the heavy clutch, then with the spring on it is more likely to have a clutch stick on the bottom / not return to the top. i would be interest in your thoughts, thanks

 

I think its supposed to be a return spring and an assist spring. During the first part of the clutch pedal travel, the spring winds up, resisting the pedal force. At some point 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down, the spring flips over, so that during the lower part of the pedal travel, it unwinds, acting as an assist spring.

This is if it is installed correctly. Apparently not all are, and some have gotten stuck in one or the other position, causing great confusion. I wonder if this was designed by the chief top retention engineer?

I'd suggest that if you want to eliminate it putting in a small return spring would be a good idea - that would provide the improved clutch pedal feel and still ensure that the pedal returns to uncover the transfer port.

 

Well said, exactly my experience also.

 

I can't imagine in my head what is happening with the spring to do this, but Buffy's explanation of the clutch spring sounds the most correct. This is definitely not a simple linear one way type of a spring most people think about, including me in the beginning.

Maybe because it's complex is the reason it always breaks. My clutch spring broke 2 times and replaced 2 times (I have close to 30,000 miles). It usually breaks one part of one side, and the other side still remains on the clutch and functions normally but the pedal usually gets a little stiffer. On my 1st replacement, dealer removed the remaining 1/2 spring, but realized the new spring was not the correct part, so they returned the car to me and I had to drive a week with no spring. The pedal definitely becomes stiff and linear feeling without the spring, so I would agree that the "feel" may be better without it. However, during this week is when I noticed the chattering when shifting from 1st to 2nd, something I never noticed before even though it may be considered normal. I also noticed the clutch pedal had a little bit of play to it without the spring, both side to side and in to out. I was worried the pedal might in effect be "riding" my clutch, but the dealer told me it's not a problem, the clutch pressure plate itself will push the pedal back up. Which is true, but I felt pedal did not sit all the way up and I could feel some vibration when I touched it lightly with my foot.

As such, I would definitely follow Buffy's recommendation to have some kind of a simple linear return spring that will bring the pedal back full up, if you dislike the GM clutch spring.

When my clutch spring broke for the 2nd time, I made sure the 1/2 spring was still left in there while the dealer ordered the replacement.

My main complaint to all of this is, why can't GM make a spring that lasts more than 15,000 miles of normal commuting? If this complex POS can't handle the tension/compression/flipping routine it was designed to do, GM should just go back to a simple linear return spring and let the pedal be a little stiff.

Every time a new spring is installed the clutch pedal is RIDICULOUSLY soft, so soft that even a weak left leg like mine has trouble driving smoothly because it's too soft. But over few weeks, the pedal starts to firm up, and I can feel even this 3rd spring is getting cold worked slowly into another failure. Either the material used is cheap or more likely, this complex spring is asked to do things a normal spring isn't, sort of like hyperextending your elbow or knee continuously and expecting it to stay intact. Nice concept/idea, but a bad execution for production.