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Under drive pully

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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:34 AM
  #21  
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If you underdive don't complain when the battery goes dead.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 04:47 PM
  #22  
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You be sure and let us know when the FIRST person with a C6 or C5 has a dead battery from using one. My original C5 battery (2001) is alive and well.

Maybe that should read, I dont have an underdrive pulley so I wonder if it kills batteries.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:12 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by timd38
If you underdive don't complain when the battery goes dead.
Every morning when I start my car my battery is sitting at 14 volts. I have had the UD almost a year
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by midnite902
Every morning when I start my car my battery is sitting at 14 volts. I have had the UD almost a year
I just spent all day at a car company in Detroit talking about the amount of amperage their cars put out at idle and it is not enough to run the ignition. The car companies have put small pulleys on the alt to reduce noise and improve fuel economy, so if you make it smaller, you increasing the likelihood of not having enough amperage to charge the battery unless you drive the car.

In the last battery return program that one of my engineeers ran, over 45% were discharged only and a smaller pully aggrivates this. This is a very common number and it doesn't really matter what brand of car it is. CAN bus is the best thing that ever happen to the battery business, because it leaves modules on and kills batteries.

You can tell me that I don't know what I am talking about, but I have 4 battery engineers working for me and we make over 110M batteries a year, so I think I have a clue.

Last edited by timd38; Sep 15, 2006 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:24 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by timd38
I just spent all day at a car company in Detroit talking about the amount of amperage their cars put out at idle and it is not enough to run the ignition. The car companies have put small pulleys on the alt to reduce noise and improve fuel economy, so if you make it smaller, you increasing the likelihood of not having enough amperage to charge the battery unless you drive the car.
In the last battery return program that one of my engineeers ran, over 45% were discharged only and a smaller pully aggrivates this. This is a very common number and it doesn't really matter what brand of car it is. CAN bus is the best thing that ever happen to the battery business, because it leaves modules on and kills batteries.
You can tell me that I don't know what I am talking about, but I have 4 battery engineers working for me and we make over 110M batteries a year, so I think I have a clue.
It's possible now that with this because in a twist of irony shortly after I posted this:
Originally Posted by LS1LT1
I do have one (ASP) on my bolt on Z28 and it has been fine with a full size battery but when running a lightweight (save 22 pounds of the nose) battery it really dimmed the lights even though the idle was bumped up another 50rpm.
I went out to my Z28 one morning after letting it sit for 5+ days straight (was driving the C6 for a bit ) and the brand new, now FULL size battery (to replace my little race battery) that I'd bought 2 weeks earlier was stone cold dead.
Not sure if the UD pulley caused it or if I stressed the alternator/charging system too much with the lightweight race battery (which even when letting the car sit for a few weeks without starting never died like this one) over time and now it won't charge as well, I don't know. I jumped it and it did fire back up but I am still concerned.
I might have my idle bumped up a little more maybe.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Vette_Fan
I am not understanding this.... IF I put on a UD Pulley on my Stock A4, C5 - does that mean I'll have to raise the RPM in idle?
On a stock C5 (or C6)...probably. However, hardly anyone goes to the trouble of installing an underdrive pulley on a totally stock LSx. I think the point of mentioning the raised idle is that this mod is typically done at the same time as a cam swap (because almost the same labor is involved in gaining access to the front of the motor). Since a cam swap almost always necessitates raising the idle, the concern about electrical accessories spinning slower at idle becomes moot. For example, let's say we are installing a cam and 15% ud on an automatic which idles stock @ 600rpm w/ AC on (pretty typical). If you raise the idle to 700 after the job is complete (also pretty typical), you have more than overcome the 15% reduction.

FWIW, my LS2-based 402 stroker with automatic and mild cam idles at 800/850rpm (AC off/on), and is totally streetable.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Tommy, you should come down and have a laugh while you hear some new words never heard before by humans as I change it out with RJ (aintqik) this weekend.


What is so hard about cobra longtubes?
On our soon to to sold 97 Cobra a whole bunch of fun for a guy with one good arm
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 02:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Lucky
I think the point of mentioning the raised idle is that this mod is typically done at the same time as a cam swap (because almost the same labor is involved in gaining access to the front of the motor).
Not in my case.

I was addressing the silly argument that it spins the alternator slower when you put it on.

So: if the alternator is spinning 10% slower from the pulley and you raise the idle 10% then the alternator now spinning at the same as factory speed?No more slow alternator issue.

I was simply saying there is an easy fix for the guy that thinks its an issue.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 09:42 AM
  #29  
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For anyone seriously considering an underdrive pulley on a totally stock motor that is concerned about the alternator spinning more slowly, there is always the option of simultaneously adding an alternator overdrive pulley (e.g., http://speed-eng.com/store/index.php?cPath=22_49_1052).
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