Z51 rotor replacement recomendations
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 16
From: Monroe Township New Jersey
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
St. Jude donor in memory of jpee '14
Originally Posted by BLK-DVL
The car has already been aligned after I changed all the suspension parts out.
I am going back to have it 're-aligned' to take care of any suspension settling that may have occured in the last 2 months since it was all put on. Like said before, it was not doing this until the brakes were put on so that is why I am chasing this as a brake question. The alignment is just going to be a sanity check.
I am going back to have it 're-aligned' to take care of any suspension settling that may have occured in the last 2 months since it was all put on. Like said before, it was not doing this until the brakes were put on so that is why I am chasing this as a brake question. The alignment is just going to be a sanity check.
My best guess would have been loose lug nuts on a rusted rotor where the wheel meets the rotor....but we know it ain't so
If everything that has been suggested checks out........ it is time to re check the caliper & brake installation. You may need to look at the weird stuff............ Something like a brake pad not sitting correctly in the caliper saddle, cocked so that it will not move freely.
Once again good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
do u do any of your own work? if so, you can try some stuff.
1. concentrate on one problem at a time.
2. for the pedal pulsing, if they were used rotors, always have them
surfaced b 4 u install them. If they were new, and laid flat in
storage over a season, they will warp sitting on the shelf. as a new
purchaser you don't know so get them turned.
3. for the pulling,
A. check tire pressure.
B. jack up the front wheels and see if they both rotate freely
or with the same amount of drag. a lot of time being that
close to the problem might make it self obvious.
C. you mentioned plenty of grease on the pins. Check to see
that the side that doesn't pull is not grease contaminated
D. if you can remove the calipers, pop the pads off, and
scrub them lightly face down on a really flat area on a
concrete slab (ie. sidewalk) to scuff off anything that
might be contaminating the pad contact area. it's better
than sand paper, and the sanded material falls free instead
of building up on the sand paper and recontaminating the
pad again, and it flattens ridges, etc. It works if you don't
want to replace the pads ($100) and you have to replace
just one rotor.
E. If your brake fluid reservoir is low enough, get a large pair of
channel-locks (slotted pliers) and squeeze the piston back
into thecaliper. then put that corner back together, and
gently pump the pedal to put the pads against the rotor,
repeat for the other side, then drive it around the block .
See if it still pulls. if normal, and if you scuffed the pads,
use light brakes for a couple of hours of normal stop and go
driving.
F. See? solutions can be low cost , and now you are infinitely
familiar with your brakes
1. concentrate on one problem at a time.
2. for the pedal pulsing, if they were used rotors, always have them
surfaced b 4 u install them. If they were new, and laid flat in
storage over a season, they will warp sitting on the shelf. as a new
purchaser you don't know so get them turned.
3. for the pulling,
A. check tire pressure.
B. jack up the front wheels and see if they both rotate freely
or with the same amount of drag. a lot of time being that
close to the problem might make it self obvious.
C. you mentioned plenty of grease on the pins. Check to see
that the side that doesn't pull is not grease contaminated
D. if you can remove the calipers, pop the pads off, and
scrub them lightly face down on a really flat area on a
concrete slab (ie. sidewalk) to scuff off anything that
might be contaminating the pad contact area. it's better
than sand paper, and the sanded material falls free instead
of building up on the sand paper and recontaminating the
pad again, and it flattens ridges, etc. It works if you don't
want to replace the pads ($100) and you have to replace
just one rotor.
E. If your brake fluid reservoir is low enough, get a large pair of
channel-locks (slotted pliers) and squeeze the piston back
into thecaliper. then put that corner back together, and
gently pump the pedal to put the pads against the rotor,
repeat for the other side, then drive it around the block .
See if it still pulls. if normal, and if you scuffed the pads,
use light brakes for a couple of hours of normal stop and go
driving.
F. See? solutions can be low cost , and now you are infinitely
familiar with your brakes
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 134
From: merritt island fl
C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2016 C1 of the Year Finalist
2015 C2 of the Year Finalist
[. If they were new, and laid flat in
storage over a season, they will warp sitting on the shelf. as a new
purchaser you don't know so get them turned.
BS!
They are cast iron- no way they will warp just sitting on a shelf!
storage over a season, they will warp sitting on the shelf. as a new
purchaser you don't know so get them turned.
BS!
They are cast iron- no way they will warp just sitting on a shelf!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 41
From: Corinth TX
Originally Posted by dave pawlowski
[. If they were new, and laid flat in
storage over a season, they will warp sitting on the shelf. as a new
purchaser you don't know so get them turned.
BS!
They are cast iron- no way they will warp just sitting on a shelf!
storage over a season, they will warp sitting on the shelf. as a new
purchaser you don't know so get them turned.
BS!
They are cast iron- no way they will warp just sitting on a shelf!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 134
From: merritt island fl
C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2016 C1 of the Year Finalist
2015 C2 of the Year Finalist
I find this very hard to believe. I agree- the manufacturers may say this but it makes no sense. Any metalurgists here that can comment? Unless the properties of cast iron have changed since I took a metalurgy course, it just isn't so.
But I could be wrong.
But I could be wrong.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Bethesda MD
Originally Posted by BLK-DVL
So I puchased a set of used Z51 calipers and rotors from a unnamed source and it appears that the front rotors may be 'warped' or uneven. My car has started pulling since I had them installed and when rolling at low speeds you can feel the car sort of 'studdering' or 'pulsing', not as evident at higher speeds but just feels like something is not right. Also from the time I bought them, there has been flaking from the center of the rotors. Just to make sure I am going to go get an alignment to make sure I am not smoking crack and that is the issue.
Anyways, I am going to contact the seller and see if they can do anything about this, maybe sell/discount some new rotors. Who knows, hopefull something can be done.
However, main purpose of this is to ask your opinions on what I shoiuld get/do:
1) Bring the rotors to a brake shop and have them resurfaced and see if that can fix it. (note they are flaking from the rotor core).
2) Buy a new set of Z51 rotors from somewhere (anyone know a place?)
3) Get a set of aftermarkets- dont want to spend a whole lot since I already wasted on the ones I have now. Any recomendations? or place to get them.
Help is much appreciated.
Anyways, I am going to contact the seller and see if they can do anything about this, maybe sell/discount some new rotors. Who knows, hopefull something can be done.
However, main purpose of this is to ask your opinions on what I shoiuld get/do:
1) Bring the rotors to a brake shop and have them resurfaced and see if that can fix it. (note they are flaking from the rotor core).
2) Buy a new set of Z51 rotors from somewhere (anyone know a place?)
3) Get a set of aftermarkets- dont want to spend a whole lot since I already wasted on the ones I have now. Any recomendations? or place to get them.
Help is much appreciated.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Bethesda MD
Originally Posted by BLK-DVL
So I puchased a set of used Z51 calipers and rotors from a unnamed source and it appears that the front rotors may be 'warped' or uneven. My car has started pulling since I had them installed and when rolling at low speeds you can feel the car sort of 'studdering' or 'pulsing', not as evident at higher speeds but just feels like something is not right. Also from the time I bought them, there has been flaking from the center of the rotors. Just to make sure I am going to go get an alignment to make sure I am not smoking crack and that is the issue.
Anyways, I am going to contact the seller and see if they can do anything about this, maybe sell/discount some new rotors. Who knows, hopefull something can be done.
However, main purpose of this is to ask your opinions on what I shoiuld get/do:
1) Bring the rotors to a brake shop and have them resurfaced and see if that can fix it. (note they are flaking from the rotor core).
2) Buy a new set of Z51 rotors from somewhere (anyone know a place?)
3) Get a set of aftermarkets- dont want to spend a whole lot since I already wasted on the ones I have now. Any recomendations? or place to get them.
Help is much appreciated.
Anyways, I am going to contact the seller and see if they can do anything about this, maybe sell/discount some new rotors. Who knows, hopefull something can be done.
However, main purpose of this is to ask your opinions on what I shoiuld get/do:
1) Bring the rotors to a brake shop and have them resurfaced and see if that can fix it. (note they are flaking from the rotor core).
2) Buy a new set of Z51 rotors from somewhere (anyone know a place?)
3) Get a set of aftermarkets- dont want to spend a whole lot since I already wasted on the ones I have now. Any recomendations? or place to get them.
Help is much appreciated.
