When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Home Depot:
WATTS A-293 3/8" x 1/4" Hose Barb to MIP Adapter 2 @ 1.78 (3.56)
Husky Mini General Purpose Filter USA-SKU: 401-910 1 @ 11.97 (11.97)
Teflon Tape 1 @ .97 (.97)
Found in Tool Box:
3/8" Fuel Line 24" 1 @ free (free)
Total: $18.26
Wrap a layer of teflon tape onto the screw end of the MIP adapter.
Insert and tighten adapters into the openings on the general purpose filter.
Remove the existing pcv tubing connection from the intake (post maf).
Position the catch can assembly in the location of your choice.
Use the 3/8" line to create a connection from the catch can to the existing pcv nipple (located in the intake duct)
Use the 3/8" line to create a connection from the catch can to the existing pcv tube (metal, located on top of the right valve cover - right next to the oil fill tube).
Done.
The 'can' section of the filter assembly, unscrews for easy maintenance.
The 'can' has an 'air valve nipple' (like a tire valve stem) on the bottom, allowing one to remove the 'valve' and adding a connecting drain valve and hose if so desired.
Since it's on the same side as the dipstick it would be interesting if one was able to incorporate an 'oil feed' into the dipstick tube. It would be very handy if one was able to add a drain valve and hose to the bottom of the 'filter/can' and have it empty into the dipstick tube. If the 'drain valve' was a vacumm design, I would think that it would permit one to drain any captured oil back into the 'drainpan' without intervention. If the 'drain valve' from the 'can' closed when under pressure (while the engine is running) and opened when there was no pressure (when the engine was off) wouldn't it automatically drain or empty the 'catch' back into the 'system' but still have the benefits of the pcv system.
The air compressor mini filter is a common mod to turbo and super charged motors. Works great! The Schraeder valve at the bottom of the filter is usually sealed with epoxy when the filter is used as a catch can, it's been known to leak.
Looks like a clean install. Let us know how it does!
I would not recommend a drain line back into the dip stick tube. On my previous catch can installs the stuff that collects isn't purely oil theres a "yohoo" beverage like quality because of water and condensation. Also the oil collection shouldn't be that significant so the loss of a couple mL of oil per oil change simply won't matter. Better to just drain it and be done with the collected waste. Up here in the NW I get a lot of condensation with the temp swings and large amount of moisture in the air.
zig, there is the other pcv hose, it runs from the lower lifer valley cover to the intake (just after the TB) did you do anything with that one? that one seems to have more oil to catch. thanks
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by cbrf4i1
zig, there is the other pcv hose, it runs from the lower lifer valley cover to the intake (just after the TB) did you do anything with that one? that one seems to have more oil to catch. thanks
not yet, i've been thinking about it but currently i'm just watching the vent.
if i start seeing alot of oil out the vent, i'm thinking it's gonna be tell me something abnormal it occuring.
i'm thinking i'd need a larger can and a need to watch it more closely, if i was to 'catch can' the tb line.
the point about the 'caught' oil being corrupt is valid. good point. no need to drain it back into the system, shouldn't be catching that much anyway.
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by CHarris85Vette
Looks like a clean install. Let us know how it does!
I would not recommend a drain line back into the dip stick tube. On my previous catch can installs the stuff that collects isn't purely oil theres a "yohoo" beverage like quality because of water and condensation. Also the oil collection shouldn't be that significant so the loss of a couple mL of oil per oil change simply won't matter. Better to just drain it and be done with the collected waste. Up here in the NW I get a lot of condensation with the temp swings and large amount of moisture in the air.
If you connect a "t" with the valley hose feeding into the catch can you should definitely catch some oil vapor. I've seen a lot of LS2 intakes come through my shop and all have an oily film throughout... thats right - ALL of them.
Thanks for posting this Zig. Looks like the ticket for me. I'm FI'd, and see a LOT of oil through the intake. According to Magnuson, there was a lot of oil in the Maggie intake when they took it apart to upgrade the blower case. Probably the reason why there's always a large "puff" of smoke when I jump on it (rings and valve seals are fine).
Since all the catch-can systems folks here have shown are DIY's (and no one has really shown a "commercially available" system) methinks I'm gonna give this one a shot.
Lord knows I've got a pile of junk that DIDN'T work for me - I think I can invest $20 to try this...
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by SickRick
Thanks for posting this Zig. Looks like the ticket for me. I'm FI'd, and see a LOT of oil through the intake. According to Magnuson, there was a lot of oil in the Maggie intake when they took it apart to upgrade the blower case. Probably the reason why there's always a large "puff" of smoke when I jump on it (rings and valve seals are fine).
Since all the catch-can systems folks here have shown are DIY's (and no one has really shown a "commercially available" system) methinks I'm gonna give this one a shot.
Lord knows I've got a pile of junk that DIDN'T work for me - I think I can invest $20 to try this...
Rick
let me just point out, this 'catch can' is on the vent side.
if one gets blow-by out the vent it is an indication that there are issues.
there are 'professional' catch cans, i saw one listed on the forum for something like $74 or so.
however, most if the installs i have seen are using a catch can on the tb conection, not the vent.
Is this just a simple prevenative measure thingy? If the can starts collecting oil, its an indication of valve guides, valve seales or oil control ring failures? I can see where this might be a valuable tool on an FI car.
let me just point out, this 'catch can' is on the vent side.
if one gets blow-by out the vent it is an indication that there are issues.
there are 'professional' catch cans, i saw one listed on the forum for something like $74 or so.
however, most if the installs i have seen are using a catch can on the tb conection, not the vent.
On an FI system, crankcase pressures are higher. I wouldn't call it "blow by" per se' (as in cylinder pressure escaping via rings or valves), just the potential for there to be a higher output of oil vapor in the PCV line. I'm also running a high pressure/high volume oil pump and my oil pressures are considerably higher than with a stock pump...
In either case, the catch-can would be a good diagnostic tool to examine the amount of oil/vapor actually coming out of the PCV system.
Do these engines have that much blow by when you don't have a blower?
All 4 cycle motors have blowby into the crankcase. Even with 3 sets of rings the ring seals don't stop some combustion gases from reaching the crankcase. The crankcase gets pressurized at normal compression ratios as well as with forced induction, the higher the compression ratio the more blowby. Catch cans allow you to meet pollution requirements AND reduce the amount of junk going into the intake. The best of both worlds?
The PCV valve is there ONLY for pollution control, it stops the blowby gases from polluting the atmosphere by re-routing them into the intake. If you want to entirely do away with the gases reaching the intake just put a breather on the crankcase (but you won't pass the visual part of the inspection) and plug the line to the intake. Or do like the big boys do and add a vacuum pump to the crankcase (still won't pass inspection).
Zig has a great, low cost way of solving the problem. If you don't like DIY you can find aftermarket catch cans for as much as $300 that do the same thing.