Hmmmmm,
Thank you for pointing me to that thread, but after reading all about it, I think I will wait and see if I have another problem after the replacement. The old battery proved to be bad bringing me to the conclusion that the problem was not the typical dbs but just that the battery failed because of the following formula; Vegas=Nevada=desert=hot=battery failure sooner that average.

I hate to go the dealerships for anything. Got my fingers crossed.

 

Your situation sounds similar to mine.

Check my link where I went out one day and my battery was deader than Tupac.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1458040

I replaced it with an Optima Yellow Top and have not had a problem since.

 

It will still go dead if a module is draining the battery. The difference is that the Yellow Top is made to be drained and recharged, a regular SLI battery is not made to take that type of abuse.

 

I had a starting problem with my 2006 Vette that turned out to not be the battery. However, in the process the tech told me GM is having a serious problem with the batteries in all models of 2005 and 2006 Chevys.

 

You're right. I'm just saying that if he has found it to be just a bad battery that he may want to replace it with the Yellow Top.

 

The dead battery is the symptom, not the cause of the problem. Take it to a dealer, especially if your still under 36K. There is reprogramming that needs to be done. If the battery is bad, that too is covered for 3/36. A different brand of battery does nothing to correct DBS.

Contrary to popular internet rumor and speculation, Delco batteries are one of the higher quality batteries out there. I've had several last 10 years and more. It's the car that kills the batt, fix the car.

 

I let my '06 sit for about a week and when I tried to start it, the battery was dead. It measured about 8 volts whereas a fully charged battery measures 12.6 volts. I connected jumper cables to my Ford Ranger but the Vette still wouldn't start. With everything off, the Vette was drawing about 15 amps thru the jumper cables from the Ranger electrical system, ie, charging the dead battery from the truck. After about 10 minutes of this I was able to start the Vette. I drove it for an hour or so, then turned it off and measured the standby current drain. It fluctuated between 2 - 4 amps!! Since the battery in these cars is less than 100 amp-hours, you can see that letting the car stand for more than a few days will drain the battery. The manual says they will hold up for 25 days but this is pure BS. BTW, draining a car battery repeatedly is a sure way to cause its early death. They aren't designed for that.

The local dealer told me that many owners in this area disconnect the battery if the car is to be left standing any length of time (more than 3 or 4 days). Of the many presets in the '06 coupe, the only one that gets dumped when the battery is disconnected is the routine that lowers the window 1/2" when you open the door, and raises it to closed position when you shut the door. The seat, mirror, driver's name, blah blah blah... all remain unscathed. I've let my car stand for two weeks with the battery disconnected and I know that's true. Re-initializing the windows is easy. Raise the window all the way and hold the switch in the UP position for 3 seconds. Release the switch for 1 second, then hold in UP position for another 3 seconds. That's all there is to it.

The battery can be disconnected using a 10mm socket on a screwdriver-handle type extension. The positive clamp is easier to get at, but BE CAREFUL if you disconnect it. If you get your tool across the + terminal of the battery and a grounded piece of the car, you will generate one hell of a spark which could injure you and fry some of the 17 microprocessors in the car into the bargain. It's better to disconnect the negative (-) terminal. Better yet, have a battery disconnect switch installed, that way you don't take any chances, nor do you need to carry tools.

I've used Optima red-top batteries in a number of very demanding auto applications and they are worth every dime you pay. They last forever, and as others have mentioned, the Optima is a sealed gel battery and this is essential in the Vette. One of the 17 processors lives below the battery tray (nice work, guys) and dripping acid from a conventional lead-acid battery will destroy it in a hurry.

Other than that, I love my Corvette ;-)

Barrie

 

None of this is normal! Your battery is discharging far too quickly.
The C6 std delco battery is good to go 3 weeks + if adequately charged.

 

That's what I would think, too... but from what I am reading on this Forum and from what the dealer told me, I am beginning to believe the high current drain IS normal. Or if not normal, at least a very common fault. How else do you account for all these early battery failures that people report? Granted, the stock C6 battery is only a few inches from the headers and doesn't even have a blanket... oh well. It would almost be worth it to move the battery back aft where it belongs, a la Z06.

Just for fun, I measured the standby drain on my '07 Ranger and it is almost 2 amps, even though the truck doesn't have keyless entry. And yes, I am using a calibrated clamp-type DC ammeter. Mine is a pro model but a useable instrument can be had from places like Harbor Freight for less than $20. It would be interesting if more owners could buy a meter, measure their standby current and report it to the Forum. I can't find any sort of spec on current drain in all 25 pounds of the Service Manual.

Barrie

 

For what it is worth! I had three DBS incidents.

Since the reflash my car has sat for as little as two days to eight with being started and all is well. I'm hoping no more DBS

 

FYI, Optima is an AGM battery and will not leak, however a gel battery will leak. You can shoot a bullet through an Optima/AGM with not acid spillage, however with a gel, you will have a mess.

This is a very common mis perception. Gel is nothing more than a regular battery with silicone added to the acid to s "gel" the acid. AGM has an absorbent pad separator that stores the acid when it is not in the plate.