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Has anyone installed Z06 mufflers on their C6? I was wondering how they connected the vacuum system. Without a vacuum source to the mufflers they are in the open position.
Last edited by blown34; Dec 21, 2006 at 11:24 AM.
Reason: Spelling error
I'm really surprised that no one has installed Z06 mufflers on their C6. I installed a pair on my car and they sound great; a very deep throaty tone without all the lound noise that old guys like me don't like
I think that exhaust baffle fuse position is blanked out on the base c6 box. but no worries, I blanked it out on my z06 as well, the fuse has been pulled since day 1. i think chevy claims the butterflies closed does increase low rpm tq, but I've never really noticed a difference to be honest (besides it's way too quiet). the only negative is the two inside tips get sooty much faster
I'm always in the open position, that is why I'm asking if anyone else has installed them and how they open and close them. They're not very loud in the open position, but I'd like to close them once and a while. I'd like to find a manually operated valve that I can mount on the console that will open and close the vacuum to the mufflers, but it has to have a way to release the initial vacuum at the muffler.
I'm always in the open position, that is why I'm asking if anyone else has installed them and how they open and close them. They're not very loud in the open position, but I'd like to close them once and a while. I'd like to find a manually operated valve that I can mount on the console that will open and close the vacuum to the mufflers, but it has to have a way to release the initial vacuum at the muffler.
about to install a set tmr
did you just weld the mufflers straight to the stock pipes right where they ender the canister or did you use the Z06 3" over-axle pipes and conect it to the the exhaust in the stock location the axle-back clamps onto?
I cut the pipes at the back side of the mufflers, after removing the x-pipe. Tacked the pipes to the mufflers, put them back in to check the fit, then removed them again to do the final welds. Looks factory, but with the 4" tips and sounds great, but I do still need to develope a vacuum set-up
I cut the pipes at the back side of the mufflers, after removing the x-pipe. Tacked the pipes to the mufflers, put them back in to check the fit, then removed them again to do the final welds. Looks factory, but with the 4" tips and sounds great, but I do still need to develope a vacuum set-up
yeah I had the shop weld the stock 2/5 pipes right into the back of the mufflers, you probably noticed the stock 3" Z06 pipes neck down to 2.5" when they enter the muffler anyways so its like they were supposed to be 2.5" mufflers in the first place, lol
great rumble at idle but hoo-boy, talk about a DRONE!!! to 2K, I think hooking up the vaccum to keep those baffles closed till after 2K RPM would tame alot of that, Im thinking I will just run a Summit RPM switch I have stashed in my garage with a 12v boost control valve to control the baffles at whatever RPM sounds best
yeah I had the shop weld the stock 2/5 pipes right into the back of the mufflers, you probably noticed the stock 3" Z06 pipes neck down to 2.5" when they enter the muffler anyways so its like they were supposed to be 2.5" mufflers in the first place, lol
great rumble at idle but hoo-boy, talk about a DRONE!!! to 2K, I think hooking up the vaccum to keep those baffles closed till after 2K RPM would tame alot of that, Im thinking I will just run a Summit RPM switch I have stashed in my garage with a 12v boost control valve to control the baffles at whatever RPM sounds best
problem with this switch or the E-cutout is they are meant to work with the 12V vacuum solenoid on the Z06 that controls the valves on the mufflers, C6s dont have the Vacuum solenoid
the trick is finding a good way to control these, the mild-2-wild switch is just a novelty think for when you want to open the baffles, but its not like you can just keep switching them manualy the whole time your driving, I'll probably just use an MSD RPM switch to control the solinoid and call it a day, everything can be sourced for about $50-60
Here's a quote on how to do it (that I read):
"Controlling the vacuum valves is easy … Just run a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the exhaust valves. The valves are spring loaded in the open position, and only close with vacuum applied. Therefore, the valves will be open when you first fire it up J . When cruising there will be manifold vacuum to hold the valves closed, when you use heavy throttle, the manifold vacuum goes down and the valves open for unrestricted performance and incredible sound. You can also wire in a solenoid valve and switch so you can make it loud anytime you have the switch on, including cruising."
This may be the easiest/cheapest way. If I were going with these exhausts, I would try this first.
Here's a quote on how to do it (that I read):
"Controlling the vacuum valves is easy … Just run a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the exhaust valves. The valves are spring loaded in the open position, and only close with vacuum applied. Therefore, the valves will be open when you first fire it up J . When cruising there will be manifold vacuum to hold the valves closed, when you use heavy throttle, the manifold vacuum goes down and the valves open for unrestricted performance and incredible sound. You can also wire in a solenoid valve and switch so you can make it loud anytime you have the switch on, including cruising."
This may be the easiest/cheapest way. If I were going with these exhausts, I would try this first.
yeah i hadnt tried that yet since I didnt know how they would both close AND open under Vacuum
I installed mine using a F55 suspension control switch to open and close the control solenoid. I have Z51 suspension so I was able to use the F55 location and switch. My car is an A6 and there is drone below 1800 RPM in the closed position. I either down shift or open the cut outs if and when it is annoying. The mufflers are connected to American Racing headers and 3" x-pipes modified by ARH to match to the mufflers. The length of the ZO6 pipes over the axle is longer than the stock pipes so the length of the x-pipe tubes was shortened. Also, I couldn't get the longer length pipe to fit over the axle. The problem appeared to be A6 wiring on the right side and the A6 shift lever on the left side. I was told that removal and installation in the ZO6 is difficult to start with. My solution was to cut the x-over pipe and use a 3" female coupling (Auto Zone) to joint them back together after installion in the car. Overall, I am very pleased with this arrangement. Give me a fax number and I will send you GM's vaccum line routing, part numbers and prices from Fred Beans, special connector P/Ns to connect to the F55 switch ( although the connector is in the wiring harness of non-F55 cars.) I ended up cutting it out and using it instead of the special connectors.
I'll be doing this in about 3 weeks. Rick also helped me put together my parts list.
As of now, I have everything I need except the aluminum tubing to route from the master cylinder to the rear of the car.
I am going to use Ed's Mild to Wild module to activate the solenoid valve.
I've personally heard Ricks Z06 mufflers behind his catted American Racing Long Tubes and brother it sounds mean. I am smitten with the idea of being able to nearly silence a healthy sounding headered LS2 on command. As for me I leave my driveway at 5:30am for work and I don't need to wake the neighborhood leaving my subdivision.
I'll be watching this thread, and will post one of my own once my project is complete.
Hey bob, i've installed the mufflers already and haven't heard back from Rick yet. Could you email me the parts list / setup info and I can throw it all together with info and install tips? I'd really appreciate it.
I'm driving around right now with the butterflies open and it's really not that bad. A little drone from 1600-1800rpms but such a mean, subtle idle!