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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 04:15 PM
  #21  
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It's just the way it is with cars. I know exactly what you feel and it's not bump steer, I'm an expert at that, I drive a Jeep Wrangler. I have an S-turn on my trip home each day with a bump right in the middle of the curve. The first time it scared the hell out of me, but you get used to it and it's nothing more than the stiff suspension. I can go through this curve bump and all at speed with anything I own and never feel an issue or unsettleness except for the Vette and that damned Jeep. Push it and you'll get used to it, almost feels as if it's hopping sideways.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #22  
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okay...my 2 cents ....there are some explanations here that are right and some are humorous.not poking any fun...cept some shouldn`t offer advice unless they are sure of what they are saying. jabbott is right...but i can tell you in laymans terms what he is saying and how to do it if you want to. First...bump steer is not caused by bumps! the term is confusing and I learned the facts from a nascar veteran many years ago when i scca raced. if a car is not proppery "bump steered"...the end result will be speed scrubbing off thru turns on a track when the suspension is loaded because the wheels will toe in or out under load in a car that is not bump steered. How we bump steered our race car simply and effectively....(easy on a race car that is taken apart routinely.) car on stands,two pointers (steel rods) attached across the brake rotors so they are pointing forward and close to a wall or other suitable surface.no springs in car!!! suspension free to manually move up and down. from the lowest point to the highest point of suspension travel...the rods will make a straight vertical line against the wall("0" bumpsteer) this is ideal. If a car is not ideal,as you move the suspension up and down the vertical line will arc as the toe changes during travel which would cause speed loss scrubbing in a turn under load. to correct this...one must move the steering rack to different mounting positions (shims) and you will immediately see a change in your "arc"on the wall. it is trial and error until you have found the best/optimal setting.In daily driving...most will never know or feel a car that doesn`t have perfect bump steer....cars darting because they hit a bump...well that is not "bump steer"...that is just what happens with stiff suspensions....why when you drive a "mushy" suspended car over washboard bumps while in a turn you never feel it,but in your vette you do??? because of the stiff suspension setting.A trade off for the super grip and cornering we get on a smooth road....hope I made this clear and helped....
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:24 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by marysc6
No, this is not a suspension ad. Just asking you all about hadling.
Here is the entire Longacre dissertation on bump steer: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/longtech3.htm

JAbbott knows of what he speaks - he just didn't provide the whole thing,,,
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:36 PM
  #24  
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hmm,read the lonacre...deffinatley more scientific than what i could muster. my home-made "tool" of two rods was taught to me by an old nascar crew chief....which did indeed work....my visual of the "arc" made by a car not set correctly was how the whole thing became clear in my mind....expert i`m not...just adding what i know and learned a long time ago....we shimmed our steering rack which ultimately was changing the the tie rod positions....after reading the longacre article...i feel only half right...hope my "visual" helps someone understand....
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Old Jan 6, 2025 | 06:21 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ScottJ03
If you lowered it you would get bump steer more likely, it feels like darting left or right when going straight. I lowered mine and get bump steer. I got bumpsteer kits from Zip. I am putting on next week will let you know my results.

did it help?
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