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I would say the plastic ribbed pins are the worst part. I broke 2 of them removing it. The good news is you can pick up a box of them at the auto parts cheap. After you get all the pins out and disconnect the air temp sensor and remove the bolts, it should come out fairly easy.
Just take your time and it will all come together......err I mean apart. Took me about 1.5 hours roundtrip on my honker install.
You don't need a lift, it just makes things easier. You will need to get the front on a set of ramps in order to be able to get that shroud out. It will only come out of the bottom of the car.
As for the push connectors holding that shroud on, I agree thay are a pain to get out. I took a dinner fork from our silverware and it took them out pretty easy (needs to be a thick fork and it will get ruined). My wife wasn't happy about that,but I did what I had to do.
You don't need a lift, it just makes things easier. You will need to get the front on a set of ramps in order to be able to get that shroud out. It will only come out of the bottom of the car.
As for the push connectors holding that shroud on, I agree thay are a pain to get out. I took a dinner fork from our silverware and it took them out pretty easy (needs to be a thick fork and it will get ruined). My wife wasn't happy about that,but I did what I had to do.
Good luck
Those push pins can be difficult, especially when you fail to identify a couple of them as push pins like I did and simply cut the heads off of them.
Someone has already said that you can get replacements in a box of 6 or so from Pep Boys or Auto Zone.
There is a small slot along side the head of the push pin and it's base. Put a flat blade screwdriver or knife into that slot and pull the head of the pin towards you. That will allow you to remove it.
The temp sensor and the underhood light, along the passenger side of the shroud will have to be disconnected too.
Make sure that when you put the shroud back in that these wires in front of the shroud. I got mine back in only to discover that these wires had to be brought around front of it so that they could be reconnected.
You don't need a lift, it just makes things easier. You will need to get the front on a set of ramps in order to be able to get that shroud out. It will only come out of the bottom of the car.
As for the push connectors holding that shroud on, I agree thay are a pain to get out. I took a dinner fork from our silverware and it took them out pretty easy (needs to be a thick fork and it will get ruined). My wife wasn't happy about that,but I did what I had to do.
Good luck
My shroud came out the top (with a lots of cursing, pushing, pulling and a little blood). After cutting the shroud it went back in a little easier since it could be bent and folded better with the big hole in it.
Do a search and look for the many post.
All I can say is that the shroud will not break when bending and flexing it. Above all wear mechanics gloves to keep your hands from cuts.
Do a search and look for the many post.
All I can say is that the shroud will not break when bending and flexing it. Above all wear mechanics gloves to keep your hands from cuts.
I've heard than any manipulation of the shroud (i.e., cutting it) may in fact increase the risk of getting water up in the engine. Is this true, and if so, what is the outcome?
I've heard than any manipulation of the shroud (i.e., cutting it) may in fact increase the risk of getting water up in the engine. Is this true, and if so, what is the outcome?
Depending upon the amount of water, the engine may very well stall. Damage to the engine could also result if enough water gets into it.