Removing brake rotors
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 0
From: Anderson, SC
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08
The oversimplified directions are... Put the car on jack stands, remove the wheels, then the calipers and the rotors come right off.
Good luck with your project,
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 264
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
On the fronts turn the wheels to get access to the caliper mount bolts, they are on tight with lock tite from the factory. A long breaker bar helps.
On the rear there is less access. If you don't have an impact, you might try a little heat (carefully) to break the locktite the factory installed.
On the rear there is less access. If you don't have an impact, you might try a little heat (carefully) to break the locktite the factory installed.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: South Park (Pittsburgh) PA
From memory, I don't remember sizes but they are standard metric
Fronts... support front of car with jack stands
remove wheels
remove the TOP bolt from the caliper. TOP BOLT ONLY
rotate caliper toward rear of car and when it clears the rotor/pads. slide the caliper toward the center of the car and place on something so that the brake line is not under load, I used another jack stand. The caliper will slide off the bottom pin without removing the bottom bolt.
remove pads from bracket.
remove bolts holding bracket on. As others have said, these will be tight but the large one is torqued to 125 ft/lbs and should come off without too much effort.
remove the flat retainers that hold the rotor on and throw them away.
the rotor will come off easily.
The rears are the same BUT both bolts must be removed from the caliper. make sure the parking brake is off.
install in reverse and be sure to use silicone grease on the brake pins in the calipers and use brake cleaner on the rotors .
Hope this helps you. This was my first disk brake job on cars. I had done them on motorcycles so I was a little nervous but it went very well.
Bob
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 2
From: Munich Bavaria
I have an instruction on my website www.corvettec5.de in german language. But there are a few pictures to check. Just use Bobs written instruction with my pictures...
http://www.corvettec5.de/D/Technical/FDisc.html
Hope this helps!
Jochen
http://www.corvettec5.de/D/Technical/FDisc.html
Hope this helps!
Jochen
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 844
Likes: 21
From: W. Covina CA
I have an instruction on my website www.corvettec5.de in german language. But there are a few pictures to check. Just use Bobs written instruction with my pictures...
http://www.corvettec5.de/D/Technical/FDisc.html
Hope this helps!
Jochen
http://www.corvettec5.de/D/Technical/FDisc.html
Hope this helps!
Jochen
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 375
Likes: 8
From: Boise Idaho
Here's another step by step. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1558729397
Just got my calipers back from Mike and will be putting them back on this weekend.
Just got my calipers back from Mike and will be putting them back on this weekend.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Copperas Cove Texas
Here's another step by step. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1558729397
Just got my calipers back from Mike and will be putting them back on this weekend.
Just got my calipers back from Mike and will be putting them back on this weekend.
The instructions on the link say to replace the bolts? Call me crazy but I have never heard of that and I dont think I will ever do that......
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 3
From: Penn Valley California
Make sure to wire brush all residual loc-tite away on the mounting bolts,apply blue loc-tite and reinstall.The 100+ lb/ft torque on the caliper mounting bracket bolts is a tough one with a short handled torque wrench that fits inside the wheelwell-kinda like doing bench presses with 100 lb dumbells!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 9
From: Jacksonville FL
I've done many disc brake jobs and never have I replaced the caliper bolts. And also never have I had a problem with them. I actually have a drawer full of new ones from when you buy the pads from a dealership they come with the new bolts.
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 0
From: Roseville CA
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix AZ
The bolts you are supposed to replace are not the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. They are the ones that hold the bracket to the hub. When doing a brake job you do not touch these bolts. You only remove the caliper to caliper bracket bolts.
All bolts deform a little when torqued. The high torque on these bolts does cause them to deform and reusing them can cause stress that could cause the bolt to fail. They are requiring that you replace the bolts in their concerns for your safety.
Also following the service manual when performing your own maintenence is crucial if you want to not void your warranty
All bolts deform a little when torqued. The high torque on these bolts does cause them to deform and reusing them can cause stress that could cause the bolt to fail. They are requiring that you replace the bolts in their concerns for your safety.
Also following the service manual when performing your own maintenence is crucial if you want to not void your warranty
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 375
Likes: 8
From: Boise Idaho
Are you talking about the smaller caliper bolts or the larger caliper bracket bolts? You only need to remove the two small caliper bolts to replace the pads - not the two large bracket bolts. The smaller ones are only torqued to 25 lb/ft which doesn't stretch the bolt much. The bolts the service manual says to replace are the larger ones that are torqued to 125 lb/ft.
