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I am seriously thinking of doing nitrous on my 05 C6. I will probably go with all the bells and whistles with it for safety and convenience. Any info on must do's or don'ts any help would be well appreciated. Thanks Bill
I currently have a vortex ram air with kook headers and route 66 exhaust. I also have a EFI tune and a wide body Z06 rear fender kit and wheels.
I am seriously thinking of doing nitrous on my 05 C6. I will probably go with all the bells and whistles with it for safety and convenience. Any info on must do's or don'ts any help would be well appreciated. Thanks Bill
I currently have a vortex ram air with kook headers and route 66 exhaust. I also have a EFI tune and a wide body Z06 rear fender kit and wheels.
get good tires, race everyone make sure bottle full and hot and turned on. and dont race for free nitrous cost good money
Necessary items: Window switch, bottle heater, purge and as I found out the hard way... an aluminum intake. I would highly recommend going with one of the aluminum intakes(I saw professional products just came out with one for the LS2) because in my ZO6 the nitrous backfired in the intake and the plastic intake exploded and my car caught fire. You may have seen the video of my Yellow ZO6. The aluminum intake would be cheap insurance to prevent from totalling the car in the event that it does backfire.
Necessary items: Window switch, bottle heater, purge and as I found out the hard way... an aluminum intake. I would highly recommend going with one of the aluminum intakes(I saw professional products just came out with one for the LS2) because in my ZO6 the nitrous backfired in the intake and the plastic intake exploded and my car caught fire. You may have seen the video of my Yellow ZO6. The aluminum intake would be cheap insurance to prevent from totalling the car in the event that it does backfire.
It was a wet system that you had, yes? I'm looking at putting a dry system on my C6 with the following safeties: window switch, low fuel pressure cutoff, and wideband A/F with lean cutoff. It seems to me that the dry system has fewer things to go wrong (ie. fewer solenoids, no fuel in the intake, etc.). What did you end up with or did you take the system off?
My ZO6 ended up getting totaled out and I ended up getting a new C6. Mine was a wet kit, which from the research I had done was supposed to be more safe for the engine. I had not heard of anyone having problems with backfires in the intake. Now that I know, it makes sense that the plastic intake was not designed to flow anything but air through it, especially fuel! I loved having the nitrous and was able to run low 11's in my Z06 but I am personally done with nitrous.
I was running a window switch that came on at 3000 rpms... I believe the window switch malfunctioned because the intake exploded right off the line at the drag strip. Since, the car was totaled and the whole top of the motor burned up it wasn't possible to pinpoint the actual malfunction in the system. But, I had been running the same setup for over a year and had used it alot...then one day BOOM! Anyways, I still wouldn't discourage people from using it but if you are going to run a wet kit get an aluminum intake to reduce the damage if it does backfire!
My ZO6 ended up getting totaled out and I ended up getting a new C6. Mine was a wet kit, which from the research I had done was supposed to be more safe for the engine.
I've heard the same thing from some on the wet system being safer, but I don't see how that can be. It puts fuel into a section of the engine not meant for fuel. Even worse, it puts fuel in the presence of an oxidizer in a mixture that will burn. All you need is a spark, right? Wet has more failure modes because of more moving parts. Given the conservative size of shot I am looking at (150 or less), I don't see how you can go wrong with a well put together dry system. I will likely put more safeties on than most, but I have alot in my engine to protect.
I was running a window switch that came on at 3000 rpms... I believe the window switch malfunctioned because the intake exploded right off the line at the drag strip. Since, the car was totaled and the whole top of the motor burned up it wasn't possible to pinpoint the actual malfunction in the system. But, I had been running the same setup for over a year and had used it alot...then one day BOOM! Anyways, I still wouldn't discourage people from using it but if you are going to run a wet kit get an aluminum intake to reduce the damage if it does backfire!
What size shot were you running? Would you say most of the damage was done by the intake actually blowing apart, or by the fire?
I run a wet system with a 150 shot and its really fun but im always concerned about what could happen.
I've heard the same thing from some on the wet system being safer, but I don't see how that can be. It puts fuel into a section of the engine not meant for fuel. Even worse, it puts fuel in the presence of an oxidizer in a mixture that will burn. All you need is a spark, right? Wet has more failure modes because of more moving parts. Given the conservative size of shot I am looking at (150 or less), I don't see how you can go wrong with a well put together dry system. I will likely put more safeties on than most, but I have alot in my engine to protect.
one injecter problem sometimes wont cycle from to much fuel pressure there goes a piston.
I was running a window switch that came on at 3000 rpms... I believe the window switch malfunctioned because the intake exploded right off the line at the drag strip. Since, the car was totaled and the whole top of the motor burned up it wasn't possible to pinpoint the actual malfunction in the system. But, I had been running the same setup for over a year and had used it alot...then one day BOOM! Anyways, I still wouldn't discourage people from using it but if you are going to run a wet kit get an aluminum intake to reduce the damage if it does backfire!
Yes, I had a wide open throttle switch. I had everything I THOUGHT I could do to keep it safe. I was running the TNT 150 shot with the ring. From what I had read the Wet Kit was supposed to be safer for the engine internally because of less chance of running lean. On the dry kits they rely on your MAF to tell the motor to add more fuel and a lot of people say they dont want to rely on the MAF.
The damage was a combo of both the intake exploding and the fire. When the intake exploded my hood blew open forward and the fuel injectors which are seated in the intake pulled out and were still injecting fuel on top of the motor. Also, the nitrous line pulled out of the solenoid and released all of the nitrous into the air which may have helped fuel the fire. If I had and aluminum intake, it would not have exploded and most likely would have just damaged the Throttle Body and maybe my CAI/MAF and most likely would not have caused a fire in my opinion.
The Fast intake is still a plastic(composite) intake so it wouldn't do any good in the case of fuel puddling in the intake. It would be great for a direct port nitrous kit though! If I were to ever run nitrous again I think I would definitely go with the direct port setup! But as I said before...no more nitrous for me! I am going TT.
I've heard the same thing from some on the wet system being safer, but I don't see how that can be. It puts fuel into a section of the engine not meant for fuel. Even worse, it puts fuel in the presence of an oxidizer in a mixture that will burn. All you need is a spark, right? Wet has more failure modes because of more moving parts. Given the conservative size of shot I am looking at (150 or less), I don't see how you can go wrong with a well put together dry system. I will likely put more safeties on than most, but I have alot in my engine to protect.
I run a tiny dry shot 50-75 and while I do not have issues Cartek has done testing that shows that the MAF cant keep up. With a larger shot I would follow their advice. Dry shots have issues of their own and where you put the nozzle in front of the MAF is how you do the initial A/F adjustment. An advantage of the dry shot is that as bottle pressure falls the mix doesnt richen up. A bottle heater on a wet shot avoids this.
I would highly recommend going with one of the aluminum intakes(I saw professional products just came out with one for the LS2) because in my ZO6 the nitrous backfired in the intake and the plastic intake exploded and my car caught fire. You may have seen the video of my Yellow ZO6. The aluminum intake would be cheap insurance to prevent from totalling the car in the event that it does backfire.
I run the FAST intake with burst panels installed. They are 125 bucks and burst hopefully saving the rest of the manifold. It hasnt happened so I cant comment on its affectiveness.
Your experience and ones like it is why I initially went with a dry shot. Fuel puddling isnt an issue.
I forgot that the FAST Intake offers the burst panels, are they designed for nitrous? Or is that more for boosted applications when the manifold pressure could get to high?
If you run an LS2 plate kit with WOT switch and the msd digital window switch you will have no problems. Something would have to either malfuction or the tune would have to be WAY off to have a nitrous backfire and expload the ls2 intake. I would also recommend getting a controlled nitrous bottle heater that turns off and on by itself to make sure your bottle pressure is right. If anyone has any more nitrous questions please feel free to shoot me a pm or just give me a call at the shop. We have installed hundreds of these kits on c6's and gto's with no problems.