Hey Guys. I posted this in another thread further down the list and I suspect the experts did not see it. This is my first V-8 in years and first ever header install and I don't want to screw it up.

Ordered AR Headers. Plan to install this weekend. Some of you have installed headers without removing the spark plugs.
1. Will the header flanges pass by the plugs without a problem?
2. What procedure did you use to remove the plug wires? They're on pretty tight.
3. Does the dip stick interfere? Is it necessary that it be removed?
4. Do the header bolts need torqued? What specs?
Thanks,
Bob

 

I pulled the plugs, its easier to pull the wire off the coil then the plug
I also pulled the dipstick, starter and there is a cable on the dirver sides that mounts to the back of the motor that will need to be removed. there is a clearance issue on the passanger side where it meets the frame rail. One of my club members bent it down. We took a smidge off w/ a die grinder. It took us 7 f'n hours. But we did have to make one tool run. Torque specs are 11 lbs first pass and 18lbs 2nd pass. If you have more questions pm me and i'll give you my number.
dlj

 

Most headers are a little different by brand. I installed Kooks. Did not remove spark plugs. Moved dip stick. Didn't remove anything else as stated above. Total time was 4 hours.

 

Thanks, guys. Anybody have an idea of how to remove the wires from the spark plugs? I tried pulling on them and they are really on there. Was afraid to pull too hard for fear that I would break a wire or connector.

 

pull them off the coil pack first, Then it will be easier to remove it off the plug. They are hard to get on. Also pay attention when you put them back on as they may not be as attached as you think. You'll get the hang of it.

 

All outstanding advice from everyone here. I'll add my 2 cents:

1. Will the header flanges pass by the plugs without a problem?

I did not remove the plugs when I put on my LG Pro's. I put them on by myself and had no problem getting them by the plugs. If you have 2 people then it's really easy, one person under the car, one above.

One other trick I learned on this forum. Remove the exhaust manifolds and cats as one unit. Saves a lot of time and it isn't that hard to wiggle them out together.

2. What procedure did you use to remove the plug wires? They're on pretty tight.

Yes, take off the wire at the coil first, then grab the spark plug boot, not the wire and pull. As a friend has told me, just grab it and growl! Do NOT pull the wire, you'll pull it out of the boot (please don't ask me why I know this!).

3. Does the dip stick interfere? Is it necessary that it be removed?

Yes, I removed the dip stick first. It's really easy, it pulls right out after you remove the bolt that holds it down.

4. Do the header bolts need torqued? What specs?

Someone else already listed the torque values.


Good luck, it's an easy install.
Glenn

 

Thanks, Glenn. You're the man!!!

 

Hi Bob -

All good advice above. Also, I'd really encourage you to treat the header bolts with anti-sieze before installing. I like the copper stick type.

GM uses a combo threadlock/antisieze treatment at the factory that you cant buy over the counter. One of those propriety deals... As long as you don't clean up the threads before installing, some of the compound remains. Most don't have a problem with these bolts loosening up. For the really ****, you can buy a set of bolts from GM that have the treatment applied.

Good luck

 

what am I?
chopped liver?

 

Ooops! Sorry. I cut and pasted your advise into my installation book as well. I hope to do this right and you all have added good stuff.
Thanks again.

 

Hayseed,
Nick at AR said I could just reinstall the OEM bolts as is because they'll still have he factory coating. But I plan to buff off the original stuff and reapply Permatex antiseize. Does that procedure coinside with your opinion? I am really the amateur here.
Thanks.

 

Here are a couple of things:

I used a bungee cord to "lighten" the header when I was working under the car by myself. Imagine the cord wired to the rear most collector and streched to an over head eye bolt. Kinda handy trick.

I put everything together , lined all the pipes up and slowly tightened all the bolts at the heads and connectors to make sure there we no interference issues.

Make sure nothing touches( wires connectors , etc ) the headers

and lastly Enjoy!

 

No leave it on but add a little more antiseeze

 

Yeah, I think that's right. The problem with cleaning the bolt up is that you lose your threadlocker too. I don't think there's any good way to apply aftermarket threadlocker and antisieze together...