OK I'm ready to take the plunge and get 4.10's on my 2005 Z51 (6 speed). Since I only live a few hours from DTE I've decided to purchase from them. My question is which package should I go with? I love to drive spiritedly, but don't plan on tracking the car. Any advice? I'm leaning towards the stage 2 or stage 3, but don't have a clue on which options if any I should go with.

Here is a link:
http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dte_c6_diff.htm

 

I just ordered stage 2 3.90. because of my mods and driving style. Just ask to speak to Phil he's the owner there, and he'll make right recommendation. My tuner recommenbed 3.90than 4.10 because better fuel mileage and I don't plan to track the car much.
Bruce

 

Hi Jim and thanks for the consideration. As Bruce said, just give me a call and I'll discuss your application with you to get you the correct model for your intended usage. Thanks and take care. 260.407.5455


Best Regards,
Phil

 

Phil,

In looking at the site it seems like the C6 stage 2 and greater diffs only have the DTE clutch pack belleville washer while using the OEM clutch packs whereas the C5 stage 2 includes DTE HD clutch packs and DTE belleville washer. Why is it the HD clutch packs are not offered for the C6 diffs?

Just curious.

 

PM sent!

 

Got it Jim, thanks.

Phil

 

So, Phil, can you help me out with a little discount?
You know I'm going to post result after it is install.
Bruce

 

I'd say go with the stage 2 if you are not tracking the car at all... I am also looking to upgrade to a DTE rear as my next major upgrade. I however, would like to keep the 3.42 ratio ... Oh well, I'll probably just spring for the 3.73's then...

 

On the 27th of this month in go my DTE 3.73s . I have a 2005 A4 with stock 3.15s. I will post after install. Im sure there will be a bunch of these!!!!!!!!! after the text that will be typed. I can hardly wait. I think this will be the cherry on the cake to go along with my other mods. I dont drag trace so Im gonna hold off on ther Torque Converter for now, even tho I know its better to do both at the same time for primo results. With a head full of sawdust I dont think a guy like me needs to be going much faster unless im at the strip.

Pete

 

None of them. See if they will install a C5 rear in your car. If not, drive over to Cartek and in a single day they can do a C5 rear diff swap for your 2005 which is the strongest you can get the car to be. They run 10.2 on thier R&D car. I was surprised that it was only a few hundred more than getting a stage 2 diff and having it installed. The C6 2005 case is the weakest vette diff ever and the C5 rear diff has been in the 9's on many c5's. It makes the 2005 from worst to first in terms of rear diff configurations.

Keep n mind that Cartek has built many rediculously fast cars and has proven their rear diffs to be able to handle anything. ECS in south jersey builds their own in house too and has a proven track record.

If you buy a diff from a vendor and use someone else to install it they each point the finger at the other for who pays the labor if something is wrong at the get-go. Have it built and installed by the same tuner unless the tuner is getting the rear for you. Check on the prices before you buy. Most tuners install and built rear for the exact same price as some builders' unit is sold for. Cartek and ECS are in this category. 4.10's with a shaft is 1700 of so from Cartek last I checked on thier site. Ecs was about that or slighty less....installed.

 

very nice, but I live in South Louisiana, so what would be most option to have the C5 diff installed?

thanks,
Lusky

 

Spin, where are you getting this infromation from, pardon the pun but you are creating a spin zone. The 04 and 05 housing are almost identical except the mount is missing from the 05. We upgrades all of our WC diffs in early 05 to the new diff because it was stronger. The housing itself is not where the weakness is at anyways, the reason it is always broken is becuase of collateral damage from the side cover breaking. The 05 rear seems to be stronger because the side housing is bolted down, even though it needs to be stronger, it is better than a C5 diff.

 

Negative ghost rider. The C6 cases break in the back. The pinion drives right out the back of the case. The C5 case is stronger in this area and that's wear the mount is. Every C6 case I've seen broken, including mine, was in this fashion. I'm not saying everyone breaks this way, but I'm saying the dozen or so I've seen have. I saw a bunch on the floor at Cartek that were broken this way and I've seen a bunch of people post pics of the same breakage. The additional advantage of the C5 case is cost. You can get cores all day long for less than $1k. Not so with the C6, not yet anyway.

I have a Cartek C5 rear in my car. Looks like GM put it there. I promise to beat the living hell out of it and see if it breaks when the snow is gone and my new heads are back together. I'll see if Dave Busch can comment.

 

You think I make this stuff up. Cartek runs 10.2 with their C6 and its 2004 C5 rear diff.


SPINZONE

The 2005 case is breaking up the center. The 97-04 has a center mount that strengthens the center of the case. The C6 2005 diff is the weakest case ever made. Many people break the case with all internals being reusable. Hardened everthing for internals will do nothing for the strength of the diff.

 

Well I'm not going to argue with you about it, but I will also bet you don't build them. We have two full sesons and if you add both series that would equal 4 seasons plus with the new C6 housings. I have never broke a C6 housing yet and we are talking about cars that are 150+ mph. The C5 housing will fit right in a C6 with the side covers no trick here, but the even with the mount on the C5, it is not stronger than the C6. The cartek cars, are those manual or auto? Ane "Negative ghost rider" ok fill me in, please tell me how I am wrong or how to build a diff.

 

Sorry for the hijack Phill, I'm only here to answer the questions asked. We will start a separate thread about the conversion, and if any one wants to discuss it further please do so there. Thanks

Lusky,
We can send the rear complete with the new mount, and bracket. The new bracket must be weld to the sub frame. The bracket and sub frame are made of aluminum, so you would need some one capable of welding aluminum. The install it's self takes about 5 to 6 hours.

 

Here is the link to the new thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1653879

 

The internals are all most identical.

 

No it doesn't just bolt in. The housing needs to be clearanced to clear the C6 frame. The mounting location is different. I call on your 150+ MPH and not breaking if we are talking drag racing. Road racing does not stress the rear the same. We broke as well as many other 05 owners, the rear while still stock. We have seen the rear section on the housing fail due to lack of pinion support. The rest of the housing is also stressed by the mounting location. GM corrected a lot of the problem on the 06's by beefing up the housing. DTE has the right idea, by making a stronger case made out of cast iron. As far as stick or auto, we have seen both break. Obviously the sticks will break the housing long before an A4.

 

No problem Dave....I know how it is. Carry-on and thanks.