Is the Z06 Brake upgrade worth it?
03-16-2007, 09:34 PM
#41
Pro
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I have them, and I can tell you no, it's not worth it for anything other then bling. The brake system cost around $1,500.00. Not a hard job to install at home, then your wheels will not fit over the calipers. There goes another grand for wheels that will clear the calipers. But wait, that's not all. The OEM tires won't fit properly on the wider wheels, so there goes another $1,400.00 for tires. When you get done, you have more brake dust on bigger wheels to clean, and the car does not stop any better.
TRR
TRR
:
03-16-2007, 09:40 PM
#42
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Fred Beans - Z06 BBK kit $1,729.12 incl. shipping, but kits are now available for ~$1,550 + shipping from various vendors.
Fred Beans - Z06 rear quarter panel kit $785 + shipping. Unpainted, these kits are now available pre-painted on eBay. Note: I also had to order the plastic R&L rear brake duct tube(s) and rear quater panel weatherstrip seals which were not inculded in the kit. (~$32).
Factory '06 GM polished Z06 wheels, tires & sensors purchased used (w/ 1k miles) from a forum member for $2,500, local pick-up.
Paint & installation of quarter panel kit at local bodyshop, $615.
SS brake line kit, ~$125. Brake installation, install ss brake lines, purge & bleed brake system, ~$450. (I should have done it myself).
Total......$6,336.12
...."There is no cure, run now while you still have a chance!" This doesn't include the headers/Maggie & tune.
Fred Beans - Z06 rear quarter panel kit $785 + shipping. Unpainted, these kits are now available pre-painted on eBay. Note: I also had to order the plastic R&L rear brake duct tube(s) and rear quater panel weatherstrip seals which were not inculded in the kit. (~$32).
Factory '06 GM polished Z06 wheels, tires & sensors purchased used (w/ 1k miles) from a forum member for $2,500, local pick-up.
Paint & installation of quarter panel kit at local bodyshop, $615.
SS brake line kit, ~$125. Brake installation, install ss brake lines, purge & bleed brake system, ~$450. (I should have done it myself).
Total......$6,336.12
...."There is no cure, run now while you still have a chance!" This doesn't include the headers/Maggie & tune.
I don't want to be cured! I plan on eventually doing the entire C6 ZO6 Body Kit on my car ( Minus the Badges-not cool if it ain't the real deal) I just love the more muscular look of the car
THANKS FOR THE 411-Who is Fred Bean?? website please!
03-16-2007, 09:52 PM
#43
Drifting
I actually still have the rotors but they need total reconditioning. I am probably going to put the Hawk pads on my C6, then go from there. If I find someone top recoat the rotors I will throw those on as well.
03-16-2007, 10:14 PM
#44
The Z51 (and F55) rotors can be turned. You need to use positive rake tooling (normal brake lathe tooling is negative rake). Using positive rake tooling prevents snagging on the holes when turning the rotor, but requires more force to make the cut, so a very rigid brake lathe is required.
03-16-2007, 10:29 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
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03-17-2007, 12:08 AM
#46
Instructor
I would say stay with the current setup and do some work. I have been with my car for a very brief period of time, so i dont even know rotor sizes or, lines or fluid it uses, however unles you are racing semi pro scca, you will have more than enough braking power with racing brake fluid, stainless steel braided lines, professional bleeding ( very friggin imporant, even stock vacuumed lines can use some work, belive me factory doesnt do a perfect job with that, if you dont belive me, ask your self, why your bake pedal feels mushy) and some hardcore racing pads. These pads will have a lot of metal in them and eat thru your rotors very quickly, i also dont recommend them for the street since it takes longer to heat them up on the streets and they may create squeeking noise due to metal to metal contact.
This setup will take you all the way, until your lap times go low enough to be sponsored by a big brake company. For street use, dont touch it, dont even bleed it, its more than enough anyways.
This setup will take you all the way, until your lap times go low enough to be sponsored by a big brake company. For street use, dont touch it, dont even bleed it, its more than enough anyways.
03-17-2007, 01:44 PM
#48
Safety Car
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Are Brake Mods Really Worth The Cost For What You Are Gaining And Doing?
It is interesting to look at different road tests and evaluations in different car magazines with different race cars (American and Europeans) and the stopping distants all are relatively the same and in the ball park to each other. It seems that unless you are a very serious racer trying to make a living at driving, you wouldn't be driving the cars on and off the street. You would set the cars up to basically to win in only one type of racing and not use for other uses, thus compromising the full potential of the vehicle. It seems as others have stated, it is not worth it and you are spending a lot of $ for so little gain and sometimes under some conditions, none at all. They even brough up the mod of replacing the basic C6 with Zo6 ducts for around $12 from the dealer. There was alot of posts on this subject and it was stated that this was a very, very good inexpensive mod and really helped on road racing helping to prevent brake fade. Unless you are running against the clock to win dollars on an autox or road racing, the more expensive mod are not worth it, just something to talk about. Just something to think about, almost all individuals will not do this, just strip the car and see how much better it stops. I realize that this very likely not feasable for almost all of us, just another cheaper way to stop quicker with less fade and improve handling. I think as others have stated, you need to look at the "whole package", not just part of it and do accordings and not just one part of it. Good luck and good racing, autocrossing, cruising, etc.
03-17-2007, 07:55 PM
#50
Safety Car
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that's why i only went with upgrading my rotors to the thicker, larger z06 units and better pads (z51) for my '05 f55.
03-19-2007, 05:11 AM
#55
Safety Car
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when i had my clutch replaced i needed brakes. i have an '05 f55. since i chewed through the 'stock' rotors we decided to upgrade them. Aaron at country chevy installed what i was told was the z06 rotors. since i had the f55 (or base) rotors and calipers i needed to purchase the z51 brackets in order to get the calipers to properly bolt up. based upon this, it would be my understanding that the z06 rotors should fit your setup without any problems. i still have the stock wheels.
03-19-2007, 08:41 AM
#56
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fwiw: my rotors are drilled but not slotted. they are 14" in the front and 12 something in the rear. the front wheel is filled nicely, and the rear doesn't look nearly as empty as the stock units did.
i kept the stock calipers and wheels, lines, etc. i only upgraded the rotors (z06), pads (z51), and caliper brakets (z51).
i kept the stock calipers and wheels, lines, etc. i only upgraded the rotors (z06), pads (z51), and caliper brakets (z51).
03-20-2007, 02:13 AM
#57
Racer
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fwiw: my rotors are drilled but not slotted. they are 14" in the front and 12 something in the rear. the front wheel is filled nicely, and the rear doesn't look nearly as empty as the stock units did.
i kept the stock calipers and wheels, lines, etc. i only upgraded the rotors (z06), pads (z51), and caliper brakets (z51).
i kept the stock calipers and wheels, lines, etc. i only upgraded the rotors (z06), pads (z51), and caliper brakets (z51).
03-20-2007, 08:29 AM
#59
Le Mans Master
03-26-2007, 10:17 AM
#60
Le Mans Master
Save your money. SS brake lines and Hawk HPS pads (they don't squeek at all) or HP+ for street/autox (they do squeek). Z06 front brake ducts for $13.
For less than $500 you'll be pulling your sphincter out of your mouth every time you stop.
Edit: for more info, I have z51. Still waiting for someone to come out with solid blanks, but the cross drilled ones are fine in the meantime. Haven't spiderwebbed yet, and when they do I won't really care. Buy some more cheap blanks.
For less than $500 you'll be pulling your sphincter out of your mouth every time you stop.
Edit: for more info, I have z51. Still waiting for someone to come out with solid blanks, but the cross drilled ones are fine in the meantime. Haven't spiderwebbed yet, and when they do I won't really care. Buy some more cheap blanks.
This is what I will be doing. I dont know about the *** in the mouth - I do know the brakes on my CTS-V stop better than my stock C6 Z5-1 did 