Cam affect on reliability/longevity?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,891
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From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
...If you want max reliability and a full uncompromised warrantee, leave the car stock. If you want to mod, roll the dice and have fun... but if you approach it intelligently and aren't afraid to spend some bucks for top of the line parts and service, I'd think you'd be ok...
Originally Posted by LS1LT1
I wouldn't even bother changing the rockers, they could actually cost you power in some cases. The stock ones are fine until you go way up in power or certain forced induction applications but yes the better springs and retainers etc can actually increase reliability/longevity especially with the not so radical cams.
Originally Posted by LS1LT1
Depending on the size/specs of the cam it is possible that the valve springs might need to be replaced over time but what few people also realize is that even the factory stock springs with the stock cam (in LS1s, LS6s, LS2s etc.) go bad over time as well (especially with hard driving/high rpm use) and technically should be also be changed for maximum performance (ie: to avoid valve float).
Originally Posted by hiznhrz
Here's a thought, you can do far more damage faster with a moderately bad tune than with a moderately agressive cam (and top end).
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,990
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
There's a risk with anything. Now I did the rocker thing, my thinking was just a bit more power without going internal. Perhaps I'm one of the few but I used "supposedly" better springs, retainers, etc and a spring fails with less than 1000 miles on it. Granted I made more hp/tq across the rpm range but it almost cost me. I was lucky not to drop a valve or do any other damage. If I had to do it over, a cam and FAST intake is what I would have done. It would have come close to what I paid in the end for the rockers, install and breakage.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 4
There's a risk with anything. Now I did the rocker thing, my thinking was just a bit more power without going internal. Perhaps I'm one of the few but I used "supposedly" better springs, retainers, etc and a spring fails with less than 1000 miles on it. Granted I made more hp/tq across the rpm range but it almost cost me. I was lucky not to drop a valve or do any other damage. If I had to do it over, a cam and FAST intake is what I would have done. It would have come close to what I paid in the end for the rockers, install and breakage.
I am going AFR 205. Double springs, hardened push rods. A cam of 224/228 585 lift, LSA 114 and a three degree advance. And I dont know what the hell all of that means. But Im doing it.
Seems to be a reliable package worthy of about a 50 RWHP gain.
The seasoned folks tell me the thing to watch out for is the #7 cylinder as alot of turbulence occurs there and lean is not mean but a killer.
So, I am taking the advice of Tony at AFR and sending my injectors out to be flow tested and the one that flows the best, will go back into #7 and the next to #8.
I think as you approach 450 rwhp, things to think about is output shaft, clutch and other potential driveline issues.
But hey, isnt this all part of the fun?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 1
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
I am on the fence a little, but reading posts like this and others helps make up my mind. (Yes Joe, screw it. Its going in)
I am going AFR 205. Double springs, hardened push rods. A cam of 224/228 585 lift, LSA 114 and a three degree advance. And I dont know what the hell all of that means. But Im doing it.
Seems to be a reliable package worthy of about a 50 RWHP gain.
The seasoned folks tell me the thing to watch out for is the #7 cylinder as alot of turbulence occurs there and lean is not mean but a killer.
So, I am taking the advice of Tony at AFR and sending my injectors out to be flow tested and the one that flows the best, will go back into #7 and the next to #8.
I think as you approach 450 rwhp, things to think about is output shaft, clutch and other potential driveline issues.
But hey, isnt this all part of the fun?
I am going AFR 205. Double springs, hardened push rods. A cam of 224/228 585 lift, LSA 114 and a three degree advance. And I dont know what the hell all of that means. But Im doing it.
Seems to be a reliable package worthy of about a 50 RWHP gain.
The seasoned folks tell me the thing to watch out for is the #7 cylinder as alot of turbulence occurs there and lean is not mean but a killer.
So, I am taking the advice of Tony at AFR and sending my injectors out to be flow tested and the one that flows the best, will go back into #7 and the next to #8.
I think as you approach 450 rwhp, things to think about is output shaft, clutch and other potential driveline issues.
But hey, isnt this all part of the fun?
I guess it depends on your opinion of "fun". I tell, you me and my wallet have had enough of that kind of fun. But in my research it appears that a not too aggressive cam coupled with the necessary supporting mods and upgrades will make for a good reliable street set up. I'm not looking for 450+rwhp. I'd just like 400+ and good driveability.
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Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Short Hills, NJ
I wouldn't do rockers at all. No matter how much power I was making or what they were capable of. I've seen/heard too many horror stories about rockers failing and taking out the entire valvetrain. So they are not even a consideration for me. Sorry, just my own personal bias.
Typically, yes it might be but again most people likely still think that their stock springs are operating just as well at 30k miles as they were at 1k miles when in fact they might not be holding up/causing some valve float at that point and are in potential need of replacing anyway. Of course the cost of stock springs is lower than the quality aftermarket ones.
The need to replace one's aftermarket springs after say, 30k or 40k miles is a relatively small price to pay for the performance gains achieved from executing a proper cam/spring/tune project IMO.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 1
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
Typically, yes it might be but again most people likely still think that their stock springs are operating just as well at 30k miles as they were at 1k miles when in fact they might not be holding up/causing some valve float at that point and are in potential need of replacing anyway. Of course the cost of stock springs is lower than the quality aftermarket ones.
The need to replace one's aftermarket springs after say, 30k or 40k miles is a relatively small price to pay for the performance gains achieved from executing a proper cam/spring/tune project IMO.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 4
I guess it depends on your opinion of "fun". I tell, you me and my wallet have had enough of that kind of fun. But in my research it appears that a not too aggressive cam coupled with the necessary supporting mods and upgrades will make for a good reliable street set up. I'm not looking for 450+rwhp. I'd just like 400+ and good driveability.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 1
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
