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I'm almost finished with my setup... I dropped my car off this morning to have a Powerbond UD 25pct pulley installed. I've read about gains of 2RWHP to 12RWHP, so I'm not real sure what to expect... My car consistantly dyno's 442-443RWHP and 411-412RWTQ. I'll try to post the sheet later this evening good or bad... Anyone want to take a stab at my gain? I'm going to guess 7RWHP.....
Here it is guys.... I picked up 10RWHP at 6500... From 5900 rpm up, the gains are real nice.. Peak 6RWHP gain... I think my torque down low is down because it's warmer today... Sorry about the quality of the photo...
Here were two of the runs before vs after. Not sure why the numeric numbers are showing 2-3 less than the graph, but it still gives you a good idea of the actual gains... apples to apples...
Here were two of the runs before vs after. Not sure why the numeric numbers ae showing 2-3 less than the graph, but it still gives you a good idea of the actual gains... apples to apples...
What else did you do to get that much HP (400 PLUS RW)?
Rick, thanks for taking the time to help dispel the myth that UD pulleys dont serve as good mods. Please report back on charging and drivability issues as you live with it to set the record straight for those who insist it kills batteries and dims lights.
Just remember that you have just reduced the power output of your alternator since you slowed down the speed......
Just remeber that this mod is almost always with a cam that required the idle to be bumped up. A stock 625 idle increased even to 700 will exceed the 10% reduction.
The charging system is also coupled with a voltage regulator and you will notice even if you dont bump the idle that nothing dims.
One day hopefully, people will run out of juice on the argument that UD's suk.
Just remeber that this mod is almost always with a cam that required the idle to be bumped up. A stock 625 idle increased even to 700 will exceed the 10% reduction.
The charging system is also coupled with a voltage regulator and you will notice even if you dont bump the idle that nothing dims.
One day hopefully, people will run out of juice on the argument that UD's suk.
It seems like the car revs quicker for sure.. I'm holding over 14 volts with the mini battery 15lbs .... The Volts seem to be holding the same as they were.
I think this is a great mod. Now I don't have to worry about the stock crank pulley flying off...
Just remeber that this mod is almost always with a cam that required the idle to be bumped up. A stock 625 idle increased even to 700 will exceed the 10% reduction.
The charging system is also coupled with a voltage regulator and you will notice even if you dont bump the idle that nothing dims.
One day hopefully, people will run out of juice on the argument that UD's suk.
Just remeber that this mod is almost always with a cam that required the idle to be bumped up. A stock 625 idle increased even to 700 will exceed the 10% reduction.
The charging system is also coupled with a voltage regulator and you will notice even if you dont bump the idle that nothing dims.
One day hopefully, people will run out of juice on the argument that UD's suk.
I think I am mis-understood. I believe they work for people that drive their cars allot or live in summer climates, the alternator will keep up.
Most cars at idle do not have enough alternator output to keep up with the loads. Just think if you live in Buffalo and it is 22 degrees out and you have the heated seats, rear defroster and the heater fan blowing. The output doesn't keep up with the demand. I know I used extremes here, but it was just to make the point.
As a battery manufacturer, we get blamed for every electrical deficiency in the car, so I get concerned when we do things that impact the electrical system.
I think I am mis-understood. I believe they work for people that drive their cars allot or live in summer climates, the alternator will keep up.
Most cars at idle do not have enough alternator output to keep up with the loads. Just think if you live in Buffalo and it is 22 degrees out and you have the heated seats, rear defroster and the heater fan blowing. The output doesn't keep up with the demand. I know I used extremes here, but it was just to make the point.
As a battery manufacturer, we get blamed for every electrical deficiency in the car, so I get concerned when we do things that impact the electrical system.
I live in LI, NY and it was 11 degrees last week. With both heated seats on max, stereo near clipping, lights, fogs, heater/fan on max, defroster on in the rear, there was 14.1 volts. When is experience going to be enough for you?
Dayum phone was also in the car with the chaarger...
I would also like to point out that in my C5 there was an aftermarket sub with a 700watt amp. That didnt even dim the lights with the UD pulley.
You have heard this enough times in the threads you have participated in and still ignore the input of people who have direct experience with the issues you bring up. Let it go already. It confuses people who ask for creditble info from those with experience and they think you had one. Maybe you should preempt you statement with a disclaimer that it is a theory you have with the use of the pulley but you have not actually seen any of these issues hold up in use. The fact is that I have not heard even one person with an UDP state there is a dimming/voltage issue even if they live in the north.
One the idle is raised 10% there is never ever a point in time that the alternator is spinning slower than stock or charging the system less than stock.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Mar 11, 2007 at 04:18 PM.