l am having problems with my clutch it is staying to the floor when the rpm sre up but it is a 2006 and the recall is for an older vin anybody have any answers thanks

 

Change the fluid-

 

I had that problem the first time down the track, the clutch was glazed and needed to be replaced. Put in the RPS stage 4+. What a difference.

However, I already had 25k on the car and it is supercharged with 586rwhp.

 

if this is the issue, short of keeping the rpms down during the shifts, only replacing the clutch with one that has a higher rating (stronger/stiffer springs) will resolve it.

"Clutch Pedal Does Not Return to Up Position During Shifts at High Engine RPMs (Inspect Date Code and Replace Clutch Kit) 2005 Chevrolet Corvette, SSR

with Tremec T56 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPOs M10, M12, MM6)

Condition
Some customers may comment that while shifting at engine speeds greater then 6000 RPMs, the clutch pedal does not return to the up position. As the engine speed decreases, the clutch pedal will return to the up position.

Cause
It is possible that when the engine speed is greater than 6000 RPM and the clutch pedal is depressed, centrifugal loads on the clutch diaphragm spring may be greater than the clutch return load from the diaphragm spring. This force created by RPM would be directionally opposite to the clutch bearing force, causing a near net zero or less than zero return force. As a consequence, the clutch pedal may be stuck at the bottom of travel at the floor. Once the engine speed reduces to less than 6000 RPM, spring return load dominates and the clutch pedal returns to normal function."

 

my 05 has the same problem. Took it do the dealer w/ the same TSB but they couldn't duplicate the problem.

 

You do need to change the fluid. I do it about every two weeks to keep it fresh. Trouble free so far and I've done <ahem> a few drag races with it.

 

your dealer was willing to accept liability for a 6k rpm shift ? where are they located on a drag strip.

the tsb doesn't say replicate it says to inspect (tear down) the date code on the clutch pak.

 

not trying to be personal or anything like that but that is ridiculous. no amount of clutch fliud is gonna overcome weak return springs.

this is directly from the tsb:
"centrifugal loads on the clutch diaphragm spring may be greater than the clutch return load from the diaphragm spring. This force created by RPM would be directionally opposite to the clutch bearing force, causing a near net zero or less than zero return force. As a consequence, the clutch pedal may be stuck at the bottom of travel at the floor."

should we also change the brake fluid every two weeks, isn't it the same fluid just in a different reseviour ?

 

As others have written, first thing to do is get on the clutch fluid changing protocol. Haven't posted the links on this board in a while, so here they are:

Here is the protocol in brief.

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

C6 Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit

A Pictorial On How to Clean Out the Clutch Fluid Reservoir

If you do 5-10 consecutive changes via the protocol, you will have achieved clean fluid thoughout the clutch hydraulics for less than $10 in less than an hour.

With clean clutch fluid, you should have a normal clutch pedal on all shifts, even at high rpm.

It's still possible to overheat the clutch on launch by slipping it, that is, a slow release of the pedal. I suggest a very fast release with minimal slip. That puts the premium on finding the ideal launch rpm. But in return, it offers a much long clutch life and less trouble along the way.

Ranger

 

<deleted argument. life is too short to waste time arguing on the internet>

Huillery, I bet if you check your clutch fluid looks like coffee and is thick. My theory is it gets gummed up in the slave cylinder so it hangs it up at high speed when centrifugual forces are high. Clean fluid doesn't seem to do this.

It's also almost free to try and it worked for me and several buddies so I recommend that you try it. It can't hurt.

 

i gave them the TSB. They couldn't find any problem with my car/clutch to warranty pulling the clutch to find the inspection date. My build date is 3/14/05 & the pressure plate as to be dated prior to 12/14/04. you cant just put the car in the air and look for a date. you have to drop the clutch

I couldn't even duplicate the problem, I tried high rpm shifts and couldn't get it to stick. My clutch stayed on the floor for me @ the track w/ sticky tires. Maybe I'll duplicate that scenario and see what happens

 

You never want to change the clutch, unless absolutely necessary. Every thing the car does depends on the clutch and many swaps generate post-install vibrations. The law of unintended consequences.

I counsel exhausting all the easy alternatives, fluid swaps and technique adjustments, before going to the dealer with a clutch issue. By far most clutch issues can be remedied by the owner.

Ranger

 

Sorry, I missed the second portion of your post and as a matter of fact, the answer is YES depending again upon the usage of your car.

I do in fact change my brake fluid before I do road course events no more than a day or two before. I decided my month old fluid was fresh enough one event and got a foot full of floor board heading into a 90 degree turn at Homestead Miami Speedway at about 110. I had boiled my brake fluid and very nearly soiled my pants.

Brake fluid is very hydroscopic and that's why you see a "dry" boiling temp and a "wet" temp on the cans of high end brake fluid. It becomes "wet" shortly after it's taken out of the can, even in a sealed system like a car.

For most drivers and most circumstances the wet boiling point is never reached in day to day driving. However, at the road course you routinely reach the wet boiling point and sometimes the dry if your brake cooling is not adequate. Boiled fluid feels like there is air in the system. Most road course clubs won't let you on the course with brake fluid more than a day or two old but the tech is on the honor system. I'll never cheat that again after my lesson I luckily lived through.

It seems to me logical that high rpm shifts put extra strain on the slave cylinder, and if the fluid is not fresh and has been boiled from drag strip use we see these problems.

So to answer your question, if you drive to car shows on Sundays and spend your time waxing your Vette, no, you probably don't need to change either fluid.

On the other hand, if you take your Vette to the road course or drag strip or even plan to do some 6500k shifts, I highly recommend you change both. Brake fluid is cheap.

 

thanks for the additional info/insight.

i found the 6k clutch problem when i had my car for approx. 5 days, it was new when i purchased it, 10 miles on the odo. and i did 4 or 6 miles with the test drive.

yes, i've also been into the 'pucker factor' with the 'stock' brakes (on my f55), that was the reason i replaced them with the larger/thicker z06 rotors.

imo, unless you are working the track full time, the frequent fluid change process (save for regular maintenance), is at best a 'band-aid' fix.

 

Before I Bought My 07 Vette I Had A 2000 Transam Ws6 That If I Drove It Hard The Clutch Pedal Would Hit The Floor And I Would Have To Pull Over And Set For About 5 Minutes And The Clutch Would Come Back. This Drove Me Crazy. I Ended Up Putting A Vortec Charger On It Thinking That Would Probably Kill The Clutch But It Just Kept Giving Out But It Would Always Come Back. So Isold The Trans Am And Didnt Have To Worry About It. The Day I Got My Vette Home With 9 Mile On It
I Parked It In The Garge. I Thought The Clutch Was Very Strange Feeling. I Went To The Garage A Day Later And The Pedal Was On The Floor. I Cannot Believe Gm Has Had Clutch Issues For Over 10 Years And Still Have Not Fixed It. I Am Very Fustrated And Not To Sure What To Do.

 

I've helped on a couple of C5 clutches, but I'm sure not an expert so this idea might be crazy.

I know the throwout bearing is held in place on the slave with a rather large diameter spring. You sort of "click" it on there IIRC. Normally the throwout bearing is pushed back into the slave by the spring pressure of pressure plate, but I believe this spring also helps return the bearing to its normal (pedal up) position.

When the pedal sticks down the clutch is not slipping, so the pressure plate HAS engaged the clutch, but apparently due to centrifigal force the clutch diaphram fingers have not gone back far enough to force the throwout bearing back onto the slave so the slave can cycle (and of course the pedal to return to its proper position).

Would a stronger spring between the slave and the throwout bearing pull the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate with more force and thus cause the pedal to go up and allow normal cycling of the clutch?

Or I suppose, if the throwout bearing is not properly "clicked" onto the spring, I guess the spring couldn't do it's job of helping pull it back if that is indeed the spring's function which I think it is.

Has anyone tried this? I can't recall seeing it discussed, have any of you guys?