Stripped shifter bolt hole
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO
Stripped shifter bolt hole
I removed my B&M shifter a few days ago and installed a Callaway shifter in an attempt to get rid of the annoying rattle that the B&M had, however it continues to rattle under heavy throttle, guess I need to wait until GM comes out with the "softer" cup piece that snaps onto the bottom of the the shifter. Anyway, I used the bolts callaway provided to secure the shifter to the linkage base on the car and attempted to torque the bolts to 18lbs as stated in Callaway's instructions but one bolt ended up stripping or cross threading, etc and I can not get it tight, I am wondering what I can do to remedy the situation?
Would locktite snug it down enough?
All opinions and recommendations welcome, thanks.
I not sure if the bolts Callaway provided are the wrong size, or different threads, but the did not seem to work well, I used the bolts the came with the B&M after the Callaway bolt stripped the bolt hole on the first bolt I torqued, end up stripping at like 11 lbs. Kinda pissed after spending $280 ($100 more than B&M) and it still rattles and stripped the damned hole.
Does feel better the the B&M though and like the stop bolts, but still annoyed with the whole thing.
Would locktite snug it down enough?
All opinions and recommendations welcome, thanks.
I not sure if the bolts Callaway provided are the wrong size, or different threads, but the did not seem to work well, I used the bolts the came with the B&M after the Callaway bolt stripped the bolt hole on the first bolt I torqued, end up stripping at like 11 lbs. Kinda pissed after spending $280 ($100 more than B&M) and it still rattles and stripped the damned hole.
Does feel better the the B&M though and like the stop bolts, but still annoyed with the whole thing.
Last edited by jdenny21; Mar 23, 2007 at 12:29 PM. Reason: added more
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 4
There are thread repair kits made by Locktite and similar vendors that can be used to repair such things. They're essentially epoxys that can be molded in place. A coil insert is another option - you drill the hole out, tap it, then insert a spring-like thing to get it back down to the original size.
P.S. The 18 lb-ft for those bolts is pretty tight. When I changed mine, I chickened out on the 18 lb-ft and used 15 lb-ft with Locktite blue.
P.S. The 18 lb-ft for those bolts is pretty tight. When I changed mine, I chickened out on the 18 lb-ft and used 15 lb-ft with Locktite blue.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 182
From: Manassas VA
Measure what size and thread pitch the bolt is and buy a Heli-Coil kit. You will need to be able to drill and tap (with the kit tap) the hole. I wouldn't use any of the epoxy thread repair kits as they are really not that strong and strip easily. If you striped the original hole you will have no trouble with an epoxy fix.
The Heli-coil on the other hand is pretty much screw up proof. The inserts are stainless steel and almost impossible to screw up after installation. The kits go for something in the 20 dollar region.
The Heli-coil on the other hand is pretty much screw up proof. The inserts are stainless steel and almost impossible to screw up after installation. The kits go for something in the 20 dollar region.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO
How do I measure thread pitch?
Not sure I understand what you wrote:
"wouldn't use any of the epoxy thread repair kits as they are really not that strong and strip easily. If you striped the original hole you will have no trouble with an epoxy fix."
You said don't use the epoxy fill, then you say I would have no problem with it? I did strip the original hole, but not all of the way, the bolt still holds, but it will not torque down tight.
Not sure I understand what you wrote:
"wouldn't use any of the epoxy thread repair kits as they are really not that strong and strip easily. If you striped the original hole you will have no trouble with an epoxy fix."
You said don't use the epoxy fill, then you say I would have no problem with it? I did strip the original hole, but not all of the way, the bolt still holds, but it will not torque down tight.
Last edited by jdenny21; Mar 23, 2007 at 03:33 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 182
From: Manassas VA
How do I measure thread pitch?
Not sure I understand what you wrote:
"wouldn't use any of the epoxy thread repair kits as they are really not that strong and strip easily. If you striped the original hole you will have no trouble with an epoxy fix."
You said don't use the epoxy fill, then you say I would have no problem with it? I did strip the original hole, but not all of the way, the bolt still holds, but it will not torque down tight.
Not sure I understand what you wrote:
"wouldn't use any of the epoxy thread repair kits as they are really not that strong and strip easily. If you striped the original hole you will have no trouble with an epoxy fix."
You said don't use the epoxy fill, then you say I would have no problem with it? I did strip the original hole, but not all of the way, the bolt still holds, but it will not torque down tight.
B. What I meant was if you stripped the bolt hole in the metal you will have no trouble stripping an epoxy repair if you apply the same torque to the bolt.
I have used both methods to repair striped bolt holes. The epoxy is O.K. if
1. You have a through hole and you can throughly clean the hole with strong solvent before you attempt to repair it. Blind holes are very difficult to clean throughly.
2. You don't plan on removing and inserting the bolt more than once or twice. I never use epoxy unless it's unavoidable as the Heli-coils are infinitely better. Their only downside is you have to be able to get a drill and tap into the hole. In your case this should not be a problem.
Last edited by ronsc1985; Mar 23, 2007 at 05:54 PM.
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I removed my B&M shifter a few days ago and installed a Callaway shifter in an attempt to get rid of the annoying rattle that the B&M had, however it continues to rattle under heavy throttle, guess I need to wait until GM comes out with the "softer" cup piece that snaps onto the bottom of the the shifter. Anyway, I used the bolts callaway provided to secure the shifter to the linkage base on the car and attempted to torque the bolts to 18lbs as stated in Callaway's instructions but one bolt ended up stripping or cross threading, etc and I can not get it tight, I am wondering what I can do to remedy the situation?
Would locktite snug it down enough?
All opinions and recommendations welcome, thanks.
I not sure if the bolts Callaway provided are the wrong size, or different threads, but the did not seem to work well, I used the bolts the came with the B&M after the Callaway bolt stripped the bolt hole on the first bolt I torqued, end up stripping at like 11 lbs. Kinda pissed after spending $280 ($100 more than B&M) and it still rattles and stripped the damned hole.
Does feel better the the B&M though and like the stop bolts, but still annoyed with the whole thing.
Would locktite snug it down enough?
All opinions and recommendations welcome, thanks.
I not sure if the bolts Callaway provided are the wrong size, or different threads, but the did not seem to work well, I used the bolts the came with the B&M after the Callaway bolt stripped the bolt hole on the first bolt I torqued, end up stripping at like 11 lbs. Kinda pissed after spending $280 ($100 more than B&M) and it still rattles and stripped the damned hole.
Does feel better the the B&M though and like the stop bolts, but still annoyed with the whole thing.
......come on guys, we're looking bad. We're looking like a bunch of amateur ricers.
