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The track prep was real good at HRP on Friday. Generally I drive around the water, back into the water box to wet only the rear tires. Punch Traction control off, put it in first gear with the paddle. It won't say first gear paddle but it is in 1st. I pull up a few feet, hold the brake and spin the tires until I see just a tad of smoke. Let off the brake while still spinning and pull to the line. Shift to D or S. I have D & S programmed so they are identical. Stage then torque up to just above an idle. I still need to play with the amount of brake torquing but don't think it's going to make much of a difference with this very tight converter. And I don't think we are going to see much more than a 1.9 60' with this converter and stock gearing. Even if you add a cam and headers they aren't going to improve 60' that much because they don't add torque at 1700-1800 rpm. The right converter would put my car in the 1.60 60' range, with traction. I did it with my Camaro running the same mph.
I was using 26 psi in the tires. If you go below 25 you get an error message. These run flats were sticking like glue. Could have probably ran a little more pressure.
I do have the Z51 rear bar mounted in Polyurethane bushings and Z06 shocks. The Z06 shocks totally eliminated my wheel hop.
Great description of how you achieved the 1.92. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
One suggestion for Callaway: quit showing your prototype Honker on your website and your instructions. The Prototype is smoother and better looking than the production unit. It's a little misleading.
Plus show some more detail and photos of how to remove the radiator shroud. I couldn't do it by myself, plus I missed removing some of the bolts underneath. I had to have one person under the car forcing the plastic wings inward while I tugged upwards on the shroud from above.
I am also going to order a Honker (the real one, not the Chinese knock
off). In fact I will put an order in with T-Byrne now!
The only thing I can see that would make the instructions easier is
to include more photos, what I have seen in the past is to include
a picture at each action step.
For example in step 7 the items that say:
Remove X screws...
Remote Y screws...
Those could benefit from a picture.
Other than that, this is probably one of the best instruction sheets
anyone will find.
Originally Posted by mcv
Thanks for the compliments on the Honker.
Any suggestions on improving instructions?
One suggestion for Callaway: quit showing your prototype Honker on your website and your instructions. The Prototype is smoother and better looking than the production unit. It's a little misleading.
Plus show some more detail and photos of how to remove the radiator shroud. I couldn't do it by myself, plus I missed removing some of the bolts underneath. I had to have one person under the car forcing the plastic wings inward while I tugged upwards on the shroud from above.
Point taken on using a prototype unit when we printed the instructions. The prototypes were built with fiberglass, which had a smooth exterior. We actually think the pebbled finish of the production pieces looks better, but that's subjective I guess. Plus, we didn't think it would be "bait and switch" because if you had the instructions, then you'd have already bought the Honker system. Then, we put the instructions on the website and, you're right, it's not completely accurate. This spring we'll get working on an update to change pictures, and to add more pictures to illustrate more of the individual steps that are just described now. Radiator shroud R&R seems to be an area that could use more detail. Thanks very much for your input.
Glenn, I seem to remember that you purchased the Honker Copy. I guess the Callaway instructions should have been better for the knockoff company to copy.
Point taken on using a prototype unit when we printed the instructions. The prototypes were built with fiberglass, which had a smooth exterior. We actually think the pebbled finish of the production pieces looks better, but that's subjective I guess. Plus, we didn't think it would be "bait and switch" because if you had the instructions, then you'd have already bought the Honker system. Then, we put the instructions on the website and, you're right, it's not completely accurate. This spring we'll get working on an update to change pictures, and to add more pictures to illustrate more of the individual steps that are just described now. Radiator shroud R&R seems to be an area that could use more detail. Thanks very much for your input.
Glenn, I seem to remember that you purchased the Honker Copy. I guess the Callaway instructions should have been better for the knockoff company to copy.
I think Callaway is a classy company. You have a good memory, I had a deadline for our yearly quarter mile club and I had a Callaway Honker on order from TBryne for a month. Unfortunately, you guys couldn't deliver due to a lack of green filters.
I ended up getting the Xcelerator, I felt bad because they copied your design even down to getting a filter from the Green Filter company (I emailed Green Filter USA to confirm this). They also did a pretty good job of copying your instructions.
Again, I would have gotten the Honker, but they were not available. In the future, I'd highly recommend that Callaway get a patent on their designs. I have my name on 6 patents where I work. It amazes me what you can patent. Just hire a good Patent Law firm and go to town. It's worth it to protect your intellectual property.
Had the Stinger, not impressed with the build quality. Just picked up a used K&N aircharger and think it has much better quality. For instance the plastic airbridge is about 2-3x thicker on the K&N. The Halltech airbridge popped off the filter on mine and other folks because the plastic is easily deformed....over time the filter can slip off no matter how much you tighten the clamp.
My vote goes to the K&N, it can also be found on Ebay in the $250-$280 range brand new so comes out cheaper then a new Halltech by about $50.
You won't really see any gains from CAI on the dyno if you do the pulls with the hood open. The real gains are on the track from lower IATs. I would stick with your CAI.
K&N Aircharger, Blackwing or Haltech and use the free cold air posting I have on this forum. I don't think any of the shroud cutting mods is substantially better, and rather than getting air from in front of the condensor/radiator, you get it directly from outside the car through the grill and under the car funneled upwards from in front of the airdams.
You are also introducing more under hood air and increasing front end lift at speed. For every additonal under hood intake opening there needs to be an exit for the addtional air or you are reducing overall perfromance IMO.
You are also introducing more under hood air and increasing front end lift at speed. For every additonal under hood intake opening there needs to be an exit for the addtional air or you are reducing overall perfromance IMO.
I took that into consideration. The air will flow high to low pressure and the venturi effect upwards to the filters will continue into the engine compartment. The original shroud up direct does this anyway. What air the lip of the shroud now takes in correspondingly decreases the air flow to the condensor area. Should that create an overpressure in the engine bay, the low pressure area (for exit) will be downward and out under the car much closer to the cg, firewall, therefore not affecting lift much. Also, at the speeds I normally drive, I don't see it as being much of a problem. When I open it up this summer to the 150 range, I'll have a better feel for it.