steering wheel vibration question!!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,339
Likes: 85
From: Frisco TX
steering wheel vibration question!!!
hi have had a steering wheels vibration problem for a while now,i took 4 different shops and the vibration is still there, the vibration starts around 75-80mph, i have had road force balance done too, and i have swapped out my old wheels/tires for new wheels/tires. But still no luck, the vibration just wont go way, what else could be the problem?
thanks, shaan
thanks, shaan
---rotors,bearings?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Sioux City Iowa
St. Jude Donor '06
This may be a stretch, but since you are running aftermarket wheels, it could be a possibility. Back in approximately 2002, the factory started putting one small tin nut on a single lug bolt to hold the rotor in place during assembly. They addressed this by adding a very small countersink to the inside of the rim at all five holes to accomodate this tin nut in any position when the wheel was installed. Prior year wheels and aftermarket wheels do not have this countersink and the wheel bolts up with a very tiny offset due to the thickness of the tin nut. If this is the case, the solution is very simple - with the wheel off, take a needle nose and twist to remove the offending tin nut from the one stud. It is of no value after completion of assembly at the factory.
I'd be interested to know if you find this to be the case. it may be a long shot, but could produce the symptoms that you are experiencing. Feel free to PM if I did not explain well and you have a concern.
I'd be interested to know if you find this to be the case. it may be a long shot, but could produce the symptoms that you are experiencing. Feel free to PM if I did not explain well and you have a concern.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
From: Lindenhurst ILLINOIS
This may be a stretch, but since you are running aftermarket wheels, it could be a possibility. Back in approximately 2002, the factory started putting one small tin nut on a single lug bolt to hold the rotor in place during assembly. They addressed this by adding a very small countersink to the inside of the rim at all five holes to accomodate this tin nut in any position when the wheel was installed. Prior year wheels and aftermarket wheels do not have this countersink and the wheel bolts up with a very tiny offset due to the thickness of the tin nut. If this is the case, the solution is very simple - with the wheel off, take a needle nose and twist to remove the offending tin nut from the one stud. It is of no value after completion of assembly at the factory.
I'd be interested to know if you find this to be the case. it may be a long shot, but could produce the symptoms that you are experiencing. Feel free to PM if I did not explain well and you have a concern.
I'd be interested to know if you find this to be the case. it may be a long shot, but could produce the symptoms that you are experiencing. Feel free to PM if I did not explain well and you have a concern.
