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I have seen two ways. One is with the bolts the other is with pads that go on the oem bolts. Has anybody lowered their car and if so,did you use any of these ways. Thanks for any help.
Don't waste your time for "normal lowering" by buying lowering bolts. If you want a normal lowering look, you have everything in place that you need.
You can jack up the front of your car and take the weight off of the leaf spring ends and screw the lowering bolts so there is less space between the bolt and the frame (do a search for lowering for instructions or E mail me.
The fronts will lower more than the rears. When it come to lowering the rears, I found the best way is to cut the hard rubber bushings with a sawsall. If you picture a donut mounted on top of another donut, this is what your rubber bushings look like. Simply raise the car in the rear, take the weight off of the leaf spring ends and run a sawsall through where the rubber donuts meet in the middle. The donuts are actually one piece but look like one on top of each other. You will still have rubber left on each side for protection, just 1/2 the amount that you started with.
See my picture. You should have the car re-alligned afterwards to prevent uneven tire wear. The car should drop a little more after a week after cutting the bushings as the cut bushing will even out a little more afterwards with normal driving. When cutting with a sawsall, go slowely as the blde will heat up.
As for Lowering don't forget to put a 2x10" board under each wheel - makes it easer to get the jack out. Locate the the threaded rod and mark a line from top to bottom and on the spring. (Lets you know how many turns you have made.) You need a 10mm wrench or socket then turn the adjuster counter-clockwise to lower the car. And viola you now have a lowered vette!
Don't waste your time for "normal lowering" by buying lowering bolts. If you want a normal lowering look, you have everything in place that you need.
You can jack up the front of your car and take the weight off of the leaf spring ends and screw the lowering bolts so there is less space between the bolt and the frame (do a search for lowering for instructions or E mail me.
The fronts will lower more than the rears. When it come to lowering the rears, I found the best way is to cut the hard rubber bushings with a sawsall. If you picture a donut mounted on top of another donut, this is what your rubber bushings look like. Simply raise the car in the rear, take the weight off of the leaf spring ends and run a sawsall through where the rubber donuts meet in the middle. The donuts are actually one piece but look like one on top of each other. You will still have rubber left on each side for protection, just 1/2 the amount that you started with.
See my picture. You should have the car re-alligned afterwards to prevent uneven tire wear. The car should drop a little more after a week after cutting the bushings as the cut bushing will even out a little more afterwards with normal driving. When cutting with a sawsall, go slowely as the blde will heat up.
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don't want to hijack the thread but, does it hurt the car in anyway by cutting the bushings?
don't want to hijack the thread but, does it hurt the car in anyway by cutting the bushings?
well a week ago i had the bolts turned but i dont think the shop cut the bushings, so far i dont see much of a difference what happens if i dont cut the bushings?
If you want the look, cut the bushings off and put the Zip cap on. It will stop the metal to metal contact and squeaks. I ran my spring bolts to the stops with the bushings cut off. GET AN ALIGNMENT PRONTO after you lower. I got about an inch and a 1/4 in the back and an inch in the front. Personally, I think it handles better.
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