Since I made so many statements bashing the L92's I was called out concerning installing the L92's for my own observations. The project examines their use with a supercharger.

The idea here is to drop compression for S/C use but in this first stage I am exploring 2 cam options. The first is my existing 228/232 cam, and the second is a custom 220/230 blower cam with an LSA in the 118-121 range. Lift is soft and not in the XER range. It will likely be a XE-type lobe. The second cam caters to the low end issues seen with torque on this cam.

The only change to this plan will be the install of a 416 L92 stroker for which these heads will absolutely shine as noted in all L92 stroker applications. But first another data point for 6 liter users.

This install is a huge waste of time for some since I am doing everything twice for the gain of knowledge that is to be shared with others so they can make sane choices about cams to use with this head in several application.

On to the install. I have already installed the first head and seen the first round of 'issues'. I used manley race flow valves for the exhaust and didnt receive the intakes. When I measures the valves I freaked when i saw a .04 difference in height when I stood them next to each other. (Yes I actually measured) When installed they would require different length pushrods. While that would sem bad enough, I installed them to check the installed height. That was within .005 between the intake and exhaust. Looking at the installed tips, I noted they all seened to be the same height. When I helda stright edge across all 8 valves in one head, they were all the exact same height and will all work perfectly with the stock pushrods.

So where was the added material on my manler exhaust valves? In a worse place. The head of the valves are .040 thicker! That is bad because they reach down toward the piston another .040 eating up some precious piston/valve clearance. I clayed up a piston and installed the first head and with pushrods and rockers on one cylinder to measure. With thinner gaskets I got .110 for the exhaust valve. I measured 2 times for accuracy. If you advance this cam 1 degree or install is on anything tighter than a 114LSA with heads milled .030 or more, you will barely fit. The 232/234 xer cams will not fit. One answer is to avaoid these valves.

The intake valves had to be stock as the manley 2.165 intakes are on backorder untill mid-late June which means July or August. It turned out great since the stocker is so thin at the tip, it gives more clearance. If I had the stock exhaust valve, a slightly bigger cam would fit. Anyone planning a good build needs to notch pistons for more cam choices.

Anyway, the first head is on the car and buttoned up with exaust and cleaned up pistons. I was blown away by the amount of carbon build up in there. The car was running a perfect 13:1 af ratio all along. Oil ingestion sux.

I measured pushrod requirments and 7.4 is about as perfect as it gets which is good.....I only had one set of hardened comps at 7.4. The rockers were tightened to zero lash and it was 1 1/2 turns to the tq down. I also used a pushrod length checker. It was adjusted to 7.4 minus .060 preload and was off .005 or so showing the perfect pusrod to be 7.395 for .06 preload. Anyone know what the range is for acceptable? I heard many silly extremes and I am open for other opinions.

The next point of concern you all need to be mindful of: When you order parts from anyone, open everything when you get it. Get on here and ask questions about fitment and compatablity. If you dont get the answer, ask again. Get info from a variety of sources. As SPDC said to me on the phone, everything was wrong with this order. I was given the wrong gaskets, I opened one head to look at it and didnt open the second one until I was nstalling it.....on a Sunday.....to note a deck surface that was so damaged even milling wont fit it. It was garbage. I am waiting on the second head to get ready to button it all up and tune quick like. I will try to remember to bring my camera and shoot some pics.

Feel free to throw question/observations/tomatoes at me in this thread.

Why is it I always feel the need to take a perfectly fine car apart over and over. I doubt I will like the results but it a hobby. Please God, dont let the low end be super bad. I just keep thinking: superchrager+ 345 drag radials under Z06 fenders.

 

Good luck, Spin Looking forward to the outcome.

 

By the way, if you need a cam, get it from Cartek. While they are 400 just like comp charges for a custom, Cartek cam doctors the cams to be sure the specs are right. Many cams come in that have errors. I was there when Julio had caught a major error on a cam they ordered where the intake and exhaust vales were reversed! Comp makes mistakes. A verified cam is one reason to get the cam from these people. They check everything twice.

Even if you get the secret cam specs on something, you arent getting an off-the-shelf-unverified bump stick from someone else.

When I pull this 228/232 xer out of my car I am having them check it. I have so much lope there is no way it is on spec. I've been in other 228 cammed cars.

 

Assuming you start with a stock LS2, what do you need to get it to a 416 stroker. How much do you bore the cylinders? What kind of crank/ pistons, etc do you use?
GM

 

Good luck with this project. It sounds like a monster of a project that will eventually be a monster of a car!

 

What supercharger are you planning to use ?

This build up will be great fun to follow, good luck!

 

Spin, I don't see how you have time to do all this work. You're always on the Forum

Rock On Guy & Good Luck

 

A true enthusiast who experiments on his own vehicle, to better the knowledge of the forum as well as feed his own twisted curiosity. Love him or hate him, but this community needs more people like Spin. Best of luck Guy and keep us posted.

 

I am retired (not retarted RJ), broke up with the woman, and I dont watch TV.

 

Hey Gary,
The L92 shortblock has a starting bore of 4.065 and when you add a 4" stroke crank you get 416 or so. It will not be a LS2 bored.

It will either be a stroker OR a S/C from Cartek and it will be a P1. I dont keep cars long enough to warrant the $$ outlay for both. Dave did a great job of convincing but I didnt slide the card yet. I'm also losing interest.

Anyway, both heads are on, everything is bolted to the motor, and I have one header and the valvetrain left. Should take 30 minutes to get it passable for the tune so I predict friday will be a late night.

Too many things to do tomorrow so I dont think much will get done. I verified the clearance for the exhaust side is way over the .08 needed so I was mistaken about the cam size being the end. It can go a little bigger.

Thanks to RJ and his metal polishing abilities, the alternator and its braket are the nicest things under the hood. The L76's new fuel rail looks almost chrome too! I may get a nice chrome water pump to have some bling......maybe. I'm a cheap azz.

 

There are a few

 

If you keep making my head swell with such statements, my head will be too big in proportion to my arms, legs, chest, ect...

If this happens then I will have to stay in the gym more for better proportion and symmetry. Then I cant work on the car as much. I'm heading out for some errands, then, if there is time I will button up the motor. I doubt I will have time for any tuning until late night when the roads are really, really, clear for as far as I can see down the runway.

There will be no secret cam specs or other nonsense in this build.

 

Hey dorkus, I told you to take my solid lifters to do the claying. Keep in mind the stock lifters will give up a little which may put you closer than you already think you are. If you want me to drive up the solid lifters I will just give me a call. If you have a set of old stock ones, remove the spring and turn the plunger upside down... solid is the only way to properly clay it, the hyd ones give.

 

I dont see how you can bolt up a solid lifter to a set 7.4 unless you have an adjustable rocker which is not the case here.

It fits. I will drive down satatay to polish my newer and prettier non-wobbling alternator but your's is sure pretty under the hood!

Thanks for the offer. You buying the pizza for calling me dorkus, dorkus.

 

Best of luck with the project Guy.

 

The solid lifter is used to clay the motor. It's not going to stay in there. It simulates a fully pumped up lifter, or max lift situation, something you can not do with a hyd lifter unless you use claying springs on the head. You put this lifter in with your intended pushrod and roll the motor over. I guess if you wait long enuf the lifter will expand but its much easier and more accurate to use a solid test lifter. Its the same height as a stocker, there is just no movement in the plunger. Besides I went through the trouble of making the damn things somebody should use them.

My wobbly alternator worked just fine. I think its your head that's wobbly.

 

Spin's Latest Photo . . . .

 

My motor is back together and the tune is in left field. I lost a bit in the midrange. The loss of wheel spin in second is really bad....meaning it isnt breaking loose too easy...not good. I was surprised. I used to get a piece of third on a throttle roll-in.

The compression was dropped to 11:1 from 11.4:1. The temperatures here in NY were 90 and the IAT temps were 120-140 at times. My driving with the old set-up was always with cool ambient temperatures.

The 40lb injectors are proving tough to tune. Some of the issue is a weird fueling/map reading in the 3000rpm area which doesnt surprise me since that is where these heads have their power issue.

The problems are in the tune and it isnt going to be easy to get it to run without issues. After I get the fueling the stock timing table can be messed with. Even with the hot temps, there wasnt any KR. I hope it takes 3-4 degrees in key places.

The cam is a 228/232 xer 114+0.

Just some observations but feel free to make fun of my plight.

The happy thing is that the 416 stroker would fix all the head issues since they shine on that bore/stroke. I'm leaning that way instead of the supercharger. 500rwhp all motor....

 

Yeah, all motor baby. LOL. My motor got shipped today. I am probably a week out from getting mine running again.

Dougie

 

Spin,

Are you having problems tuning your base ve tables or are you talking about WOT power enrichment?