Well done. Thank you.

 

Great post on DIY Door Speaker Replacement w/PICS !!! Thanks.

 

I appreciate the writeup.

THanks

DC

 

I replaced the door 3.5s w/ BA S3.5s a few months ago. Then changed the front 3.5 and the rears w/ BA 5.5s. It sounded better, but I would say it is a modest improvement at best.
I disconnected the front center speaker and that was a little better. All though the speaker swap helped, it still sounds muddy and distorted. I'm going to add amps, get rid of the Bose 8" door speakers and replace w/ a component set and also add a stealth sub enclosure along with a bunch of sound deadener and acoustic foam. The speakers alone just didn't do the trick for me.

 

What about the base system????? - What speakers to use????

 

Good write up and pix! I'm waiting for the Boston Acoustics S35s to arrive from Crutchfield so the timing was perfect!

 

It's exactly the same proceedure to replace the 3.5" speaker for the base system. I know, because I've done it in my base 'Vette, and it was exactly as described. I also removed the center channel speaker, which made a huge improvement.

The changing of the front 3.5" speakers made a noticable improvement for sure, but if I were doing it again, I would custom modify the inner door panel, to mount the front speakers such that they are angled TOWARD the driver, rather than away, as they are stock. What a terrible design! With my current system (stock w/removed center and 3.5" Eclipse speakers), if I simply put my hand in front of the drivers door speaker at an angle such that the sound is "bounced" toward me rather than shot at the base of the steering column, the imaging improves dramatically. Imagine how much better it would be if both front speakers were actually points in the general direction of the driver!

 

Thank you for the "replace door speakers for Dummies" thread. It was the best thread I've seen that was right to the point and included pictures to make it that much easier. I've been meaning to do this upgrade for a while now, and your thread made it easy. I did it today...installed the Polk speakers. As most people seem to agree, there is not a world of difference, but it is noticeable. Thanks or making it easy!

I think I'm just going to disconnect the dash speaker...I'm not sure.

 

Thanks! saved me loads of time trying to figure it all out!


B.

 

Great writeup! Thank you. I've also done this.

Removing the center speaker made worlds of difference as well, once I replaced my door speakers.

Just pry up the center grille, and pop that puppy out of there for much cleaner sound, and much better seperation.

 

I just picked up a set of Eclipse 8233's and a set of BA FX3's (was bidding on both sets and happened to win both so one set will end up for sale). I'm familiar with the swap but I currently have a bad rattle in both doors that I'd like to remedy when I have the door panels off. Apparently this is common, anyone have any insight?

 

nice write up

 

I just wanted to say thanks for the pictorial on replacing the door speakers. It was very well written and even the color coding for the wires was a great help.
I printed it out a while back and just got around to doing my speakers and have now passed it on to a friend to replace his.

I replaced mine with Boston Acoustics S35's and they do sound better.

 

Thanks for the well done DIY. Added on my 'to do' list!

 

thanks for the info

 

Does crutchfield sell the harness adapters?

 

Does anyone have detailed pictures of the "mousepad" they use to secure the speakers, I think I understand what is going on but I'd like to see a detailed picture to be sure.

 

Here's another speaker thread that shows the wire adapter part no. from Circuit City

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1562586389-post124.html

 

Just an update. Obviously Circuit City is out of business and, nowhere locally to get the wiring adapter, so I decided to cut the factory female connector from the speakers. I replaced the paper cones with Boston Acoustics S35 (door) speakers last night. Using the included wiring with the BA's I soldered and shrinkwrapped the new wires to the factory wires for a good connection.

The most important thing to keep in mind in the OP's instructions is LIGHT BLUE is negative (-) on the driver side and GREEN is negative (-) on the passenger side.

While I was in there, I did the door insulation....

The sound is moderately better to me - it's a little better but I just drove around with it for 15 minutes after the install to make sure everything worked. I will update after a week or so. The door panels are a PITA to get off and I would recommend buying a $5 plastic prytool kit from Harbor Freight as this helps keep you from scratching the hell out of your car and interior bits. It takes a little muscle getting the panel off. Getting them back on is easier IMO.

The metal clips at the top are no sweat. What I did was match up the pins all the way around and push them in a bit. I closed the door and pulled REALLY HARD on the top of the panel from outside the car and the clips popped themselves right in. You might need to get your thumbs in there and slightly bend the top of the panel upwards while you pull. The clips were no problem. Once the first one goes in, the rest are cake. Keep in mind I had new insulation under this, so you may not need to pull as hard. Use the palm of your hand to pound the nylon pins in the rest of the way.

Those door panels are tough, so don't worry about hurting them!

That's it!

RMX

 

and TheKomoman is the guru on this matter IMO.
Jeff