Should I try another clutch?
I can't promise it'll fix the problem....but it did work on my C5 the only time I had the sticking clutch problem. And it's free.
Did you try the MityVac with some pipe thread sealer on the bleeder? You were sucking air past the threads on the bleeder I'm sure...forgot to tell you about that. Sorry buddy! Speed bleeders come with thread sealant on them and you have to reapply it every so often depending upon use.
Goodwood, I use exclusively Motul 600 fluid in my clutch and I never have any problems. I have doubt that it'll fix your problem though, but again, cheap to try.
Now, I can throw a wrench into this thread with my clutch issues!!! My problem has to do with my clutch developing a mind of it's own after 4200 RPM. My pedal actually builds pressure and will get hard on my foot, restricting me from being able to press the clutch down to switch gears. If I do push hard enough, the clutch sqeezes to the floor and goes flat. On top of that, if I am in high RMP range and I just tap the clutch while in gear the clutch will dis-engage completely and will not re-engage no matter what I do with the pedal. I have to pull it out of gear and pump the clutch.
AS far as fluid, I agree with Joe on the Motul. I have done many track events and love that fluid for brakes and clutch. AS far as clutches, I have had Spec 3, Spec 3 plus, C6 Z06, and C5 Z06 clutches in my car. Stay away from SPEC!!! C6 felt great but is a pita to get in and out with the flywheel cover on. I currently have the C5 Z06 clutch with about 440RWHP and it hooks just fine. I think my issue is in the Hydro portion of the clutch system. Oh, I failed to mention, I replaced the slave, master, clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel 2 times and my problem never went away. The only part I kept between swaps was the remote bleeder. Hmmm!!!!!!!! Any suggestions?
Now, I can throw a wrench into this thread with my clutch issues!!! My problem has to do with my clutch developing a mind of it's own after 4200 RPM. My pedal actually builds pressure and will get hard on my foot, restricting me from being able to press the clutch down to switch gears. If I do push hard enough, the clutch sqeezes to the floor and goes flat. On top of that, if I am in high RMP range and I just tap the clutch while in gear the clutch will dis-engage completely and will not re-engage no matter what I do with the pedal. I have to pull it out of gear and pump the clutch.
AS far as fluid, I agree with Joe on the Motul. I have done many track events and love that fluid for brakes and clutch. AS far as clutches, I have had Spec 3, Spec 3 plus, C6 Z06, and C5 Z06 clutches in my car. Stay away from SPEC!!! C6 felt great but is a pita to get in and out with the flywheel cover on. I currently have the C5 Z06 clutch with about 440RWHP and it hooks just fine. I think my issue is in the Hydro portion of the clutch system. Oh, I failed to mention, I replaced the slave, master, clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel 2 times and my problem never went away. The only part I kept between swaps was the remote bleeder. Hmmm!!!!!!!! Any suggestions?

The C6 spring is heavier than the C5 spring I understand too. My C6 spring actually broke in stop and go traffic, and the clutch was a lot harder.
I've got my fingers crossed for you!! The new bleeding technique with remote bleeders is showing great promise with 2 guys by the way. Jury is out on Doug at the moment but Taaz above had great results last night.
The C6 spring is heavier than the C5 spring I understand too. My C6 spring actually broke in stop and go traffic, and the clutch was a lot harder.
I've got my fingers crossed for you!! The new bleeding technique with remote bleeders is showing great promise with 2 guys by the way. Jury is out on Doug at the moment but Taaz above had great results last night.
Will it be ok to just start mixing it with the OEM stuff til the old stuff eventually gets flushed out?
I will say that the effort to push the pedal down is much greater now, and that's something I don't like, esp at the stoplights, but am willing to live with it if this spring removal (and regular purging) fixes the problem.
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Doug, it's pretty obvious if you look at it. Putting the spring on is harder than taking it off.
Doug, it's pretty obvious if you look at it. Putting the spring on is harder than taking it off.
I suspect that the changing of the fluid is what is doing it right now, but that too, will only be temporary.
















