Just want to get some opinions here.
I got a 170 Thermostat with tune(fans)
I live in florida and I know some other people might be in the same boat about the temp going up regardless of the thermo or fan setting.

What I mean by temp going up is that the vett is running 195-205 and some times 208 in traffic.

Well, seems to me that from people that live in the hot states that seems lower than normal but, correct me if I am wrong about 210-215 is normal with stock set up. hhmmm....

My point is, what percentage of coolant are you putting in the car to lower temperatures a lil more
I had 50/50 then I drain the reservoir and added two bottles of Watter Wetter and distelled water and seems like no change....( rember a tuner told me that watter wetter with too much coolant will cancel out)

Well I am thinking of draining and put 2 bottles of Watter Wetter and the rest distelled water with a few onces of coolant.



And one more thing...the reservoir gets dirty fairly quickly....kinda like fungus...mud....

What do you all think?

 

Well since it doesnt really freeze up in florida you could run straight water + water wetter. That would cool things down a bit. But 215 isnt hot. Seems like the cars like to vary between 198 and 210ish no matter what they are doing. Wouldnt really worry about it if i were you..

 

A 160 stat will get you about 180-182 at cruise. For reduced temps in traffic you will need the fan reprogrammed. I added 2 bottles of water wetter and reduced the Dex-cool to about 30% before changing the stat and it made no difference on the temperatures.

 

You're on the right track. Most of the boilover protection comes from the pressurized system, coolant does little there. With no fear of freezing, straight tap water or distilled, not de-ionized water with some water wetter or similar product will help. I run 25% coolant, but it does get cold here, as well as hot. The major change was the lower temp thermostat and fan tuning. Make sure the radiator is clean of leaves and debris, our cars are like 400+ horsepower vacuum cleaners and it all ends up in the radiator.

 

i run 25% antifreeze / 75% distill water with 160 stat & water wetter.

to give you an idea of ECT on high way / high air flow through radiator..

last year when ambient 118*- 70mph for 30 minutes - ect stay at 188*

every summer i can still kept ECT at 178* up to 100* ambient temp, again under high air flow situation (over 45 mph). below that speed slightly higher, more like 185* ish.

 

70 water and 30 coolant for summer weather is plenty good then?

I run at 178 at cruise and sometimes hit 203-205 when at lights. I was seeing higher temps at 50/50. I know what the best is for aluminum engines and longevity but cooler running temps sit better with sensors that pull timing due to heat. I scan regularly and have zero KR issues without the timining being pulled.

 

I HAVE A STOCK STAT and it was 95 here yesterday and it was 190's on the run and 205's at the light.z51,mz6 btw.

 

I live in Florida too: 160 stat, 25% antifreeze, distilled water, Purple Ice, fans were adjusted with the tune. Runs 185ish even when it was 98F over the last few days...maybe as high as 200 sitting in traffic but not much more.

 

 

So VA 160 TStat - w/temps @ 90 I cruise @ 180-185. City stop & go I'm at 190-200. Rarely over 200.

1. Brush the bugs & stones from your radiator
2. Reverse blow the rad w/ air
3. Ensure your cap is functional.

20% coolant should be fine.
If you go straight H2O be sure to add an anti-corrosion solution

 

ok, will drain and refill to see if it helps. Thanks everybody!

Is there a plug below to drain the radiator?

 

yes passager side way on the bottom, no tool require, just turn it.

 

...but pliers might be needed.

 

Thank you!
Now I can re-tune and get another 8-10HP!
I flush and added 2 bottles of Watter Wetter, about 30oz of coolant and the rest distilled water
Now it stays around 188-198!!
Stay cool and get the right mix

 

Hey cbr this is fmatic from the other forum...what coolant do you use?

 

Your not going to overheat if that is what you are worried about! Dont start adding chemicals and changing the ratio of coolant mixture only to cool it down, what??? 10 degrees???

The car isnt really going to perform any different. If you really need it to be cooler just go with a 160degree thermo!

 

went with 160 stat and no changes to coolant. I maintain 176 -178 cruising temp at 95 degrees in central Okla.. and fans at 100% when it hits 195 ... I haven't seen top side of 196 since change/tune..

 

TESTOSTERONE C5-R, the temps you are seeing are normal.

At the risk of verbal abuse, I suggest you NOT go with water only in your cooling system.

The water-coolant mixture is a much more an engineered solution for our car than something only relating to its antifreezing properties. In fact, the science is getting down to measuring the "ph" of the coolant-water solution.

Below are 3 paragraphs on this subject from The "Engine Coolants ©" book. First let me state I have NO affiliation or even know anyone associated in any way with this Book. I just searched and located this info to support my knowledge on this subject. After all, you are seeking opinions and I generally deal in fact supported opinions.

The author states the "Engine Coolants ©" book "is designed to provide practical knowledge of the coolant to those involved with engine cooling systems and their maintenance. It is NOT a chemistry book. If you still think coolant is just antifreeze, this book is for you."

Here are the 3 paragraphs......
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Until the early 1990's, few outside the OEM gave much thought to engine coolant except for its heat transfer and antifreeze properties. Solutions of ethylene glycol and water blended with an additive package consisting of predominately inorganic corrosion inhibitors, buffers, anti-foaming agents, a bitterant and a characteristic yellow-green dye had been in service for decades and become "conventional". These provide effective but relatively short-term protection against corrosion (and thus a short service life) due to the rapid depletion rate of the inorganic inhibitors.

Starting with its 1996 Model Year, GM installed a then new to the US coolant in the cooling system in its vehicles, a Texaco formulation based on the same ethylene glycol and water solutions, but using a vastly different corrosion inhibition technology based on organic acid technology, referred to as OAT, with DexCool its trade name. OAT coolants have much lower inhibitor depletion rates than conventional coolants, offering longer corrosion protection and service life than green conventional antifreeze, thus labeled Long Life Coolants. Since 1999-2000, essentially all OEM have switched to different permutations of the organic acid corrosion inhibition technology, some reinforcing the formulation with some inorganic inhibitors, referred to as hybrids (HOAT).

Every year roughly 17 million new vehicles are sold into the US vehicle park, replacing older vehicles at the end of their service life and/or damaged by accident. By now we have perhaps 100 million vehicles in service using OAT and HOAT coolant and have become acquainted with their benefits as well as the issues invariably introduced with the implementation of new technologies. For example, the electrochemical corrosion characteristics of aluminum, electrolysis, plugged radiator, heater core tubes and radiator caps, damage to hoses, and composite nylon/silicone gaskets and seals. These issues are now largely addressed and words such as carboxylic acids, DexCool, GO5, Toyota Long Life Coolant, etc. are commonplace. Even Prestone has replaced its venerable green conventional antifreeze with a new Long Life coolant.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


So, IMHO do not use water-only in your cooling system. Your water temps are not out of line because it is not "just water." However, it IS your vette and your decision.

Hope this helps.