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I'm going to be installing my g5x3 cam along with some LG headers soon. I was wondering if anyone has posted a how-to or write-up? I know there is a link in the FAQ but it really doesn't have any details. I've done cam swaps on c5's before and I hear its similar with some differences in the steering rack, etc? Any help appreciated. Thanks
I'm going to be installing my g5x3 cam along with some LG headers soon. I was wondering if anyone has posted a how-to or write-up? I know there is a link in the FAQ but it really doesn't have any details. I've done cam swaps on c5's before and I hear its similar with some differences in the steering rack, etc? Any help appreciated. Thanks
Just had one installed last week, but I had my shop do it Horsepower Sales in Pompano. LS1howto.com has a great tutorial, there aren't that many changes to the LS2, you'll figure out the differences.
The LS2 computer is much faster than the LS1 computer, so far I'm finding only minor tweaks needed from my mail order tune and the drivability on the G5x3 is great so far.
Where did you get the 3.90 rear? I got one for my old 03 Z06 from West Coast and it howled like a wherewolf. Have you been successful getting the speedo corrected for the gear? I would like to put some decent gear in my new Z51 but don't want the wife driving around at 30mph thinking she's doing 50.
Where did you get the 3.90 rear? I got one for my old 03 Z06 from West Coast and it howled like a wherewolf. Have you been successful getting the speedo corrected for the gear? I would like to put some decent gear in my new Z51 but don't want the wife driving around at 30mph thinking she's doing 50.
My shop Horsepower Sales in Pompano gets them. I think they have an account with DTE. I had one on my C5 and one on my C6 and both have been silent. Proper break-in is important. 500 miles, several heat cycles, before beating on them is the key.
No need to tune your car with gears if it's a manual. Speedometer reads off the input shaft and will stay correct. If it's an automatic you'll need a tune to adjust your shift points or they will be screwed up. Tune on an LS2 is a great performance bargain. ONe table will give you 20 hp. 10 degrees of timing is pulled at 100 degrees IAT. Stock IAT will be in the 150 range while sitting at a light. You will feel the change from those mods, trust me. I dropped 1.1 seconds and added 10 mph in the quarter from CAI, gears, headers and tune.
Appreciate all the info so far. Joe_G, you say the drivability is good so far? This isn't my DD, but I would like it to drive that way should I choose to take it to work or on a trip. Do you feel confident enough with the way it drives to do so?
Appreciate all the info so far. Joe_G, you say the drivability is good so far? This isn't my DD, but I would like it to drive that way should I choose to take it to work or on a trip. Do you feel confident enough with the way it drives to do so?
I'm now tuning myself but bought a mail order baseline tune to get me going. I have been tweaking my mail order tune for 2 days now. I have it 95% perfect. I am flat out surprised by the power of the Ls2 computer. I had a 226/226 585/585 on a 112 in my C5, and it NEVER ran this well even after several cracks at it with my professional tuner.
I'm telling you, after 2 days I am really amazed how well the LS2 computer reacts compared to the LS1.
My car NEVER dies, always finds its idle (900, but I'm going to try to lower it) just like stock, and I've got the hot start 99% there. Cold start is fine. I might increase starting airflow a bit more (I went up to 25% over my baseline m/o tune) and it's very close. Before I adjusted that you had to hit the gas to start it. I also had to decrease the 400-1200 rpm rows in the VE table, but that got the car "snappy" again. I like to heel and toe downshift so I need a quick throttle response. I'm 95% there.
It does have a little low rpm surging. And I mean just a little. I notice it at 40 in 6th at about 1100-1200. I will continue to work on that, I think I can get that tuned out when my buddy helps me.
Wow great info. Who did your mail order? I went with LGM, so I'll see how that works but like you I needed something to get me up and running first. I can't believe your only surge issues are that low. I had a much smaller X1 cam in a c5 and I had surging issues below 1700 and that was after two professional tunes. I'm starting to get really excited. Keep me posted on your tune. I appreciate the info and all your hard work.
Where did you get the 3.90 rear? I got one for my old 03 Z06 from West Coast and it howled like a wherewolf. Have you been successful getting the speedo corrected for the gear? I would like to put some decent gear in my new Z51 but don't want the wife driving around at 30mph thinking she's doing 50.
Changing to 3:90 or 4:10 will not affect speedometer reading.
I would encourage you to consider the 4:10. At 75 MPH I'm just about at 1900-2000 RPM. I'm of the opinion you'll have a little more fun and more available torgue quicker with it. I have 2007 C6 and I couldn't be happier with the 4:10. Depending on where you live, there is a great builder and installer here in the NY metro area by the name of Corvettes of Westchester in Ossining NY.
Charlie @ rpm-motors-inc.com from here did my mail order tune. You can reach him at sales@rpm-motors-inc.com. Tell him I sent you. lol
I've tracked every gallon of gas put into my C6 from the day I got it. I have lost exactly 1.0 MPG after going with the gears, headers & tune. From 19 to 18 in my mostly city daily drive, including all drag strip runs.
From: Objects in your mirror are losing , Long Island, NY
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by redrokit8
Changing to 3:90 or 4:10 will not affect speedometer reading.
I would encourage you to consider the 4:10. At 75 MPH I'm just about at 1900-2000 RPM. I'm of the opinion you'll have a little more fun and more available torgue quicker with it. I have 2007 C6 and I couldn't be happier with the 4:10. Depending on where you live, there is a great builder and installer here in the NY metro area by the name of Corvettes of Westchester in Ossining NY.
Yes chuck did my 4.10's with HD driver shaft and c5 casing 6 months ago, no issues. Best bang for the buck. I just dropped a 228-232 575/588 113 LSA cam also. I have observed as much as 33mpg on level roads. It's all about the right combo and tune. The LS2's are extremely efficient at 2,200 rpm.
Last edited by welcome2try; Jul 19, 2007 at 07:23 PM.
Thats a great link, although I've never tried dropping the front cradle. Wonder if that is easier than removing the PS rack, anyone tried that method?
I did both, the rack was easier to move for me, do not remove it, simply push it out of the way, you'll see in my pics.
You will have less surging/stallind/idle issues with the LS2, it seems to swallow up larger cams more easily. An X5 will drive better in an LS2 than the X1 did with a LS1, I promise.
Swapping cams in the LS2 is 85% the same as the LS1, both are extremely easy and require patience more than mechanical skills. The trick to swapping a cam is to not have a deadline. Give yourself a large amount of time and work in 3-4 hours bunches. If this is your first swap give yourself about 14 hours including the springs, and of course some beer.
Thanks for the info Dave. I sent you my email address so I can't wait to check out your install write-up. I'm going to give myself two full weekends just in case. If there is one thing I learned last time is not to rush. You'll enevitably find out you need a gasket, or a new bolt, or... Also, what type of valve spring compressor did you use, just the cheapy lever type that you bolt one side where the rocker arm goes? Thanks again everyone.
You will have less surging/stallind/idle issues with the LS2, it seems to swallow up larger cams more easily. An X5 will drive better in an LS2 than the X1 did with a LS1, I promise.
Dave
I second that. The faster computer makes a HUGE difference. My G5x3 runs 10x better than the 226 cam I was running in my C5. With my stock mufflers, an untrained rider in my car wouldn't really notice anything other than some shake at idle. It drives like stock almost. My cammed C5 was almost impossible to drive until you learned its tendencies. Particularly when cold. My c6 does have some cold running surging that I'm working on. Doesn't die but does surge when cold.
Matter of fact the thieves who stole my C5 killed it 3 times trying to get it out of my driveway, giving me a wakeup call and enough time to have the cops on their butt 1/2 mile from house. Of course as soon as they hit the highway it was gone.
Also, what type of valve spring compressor did you use, just the cheapy lever type that you bolt one side where the rocker arm goes? Thanks again everyone.
I used both kinds, actually I prefer the one you are referencing, you have more control over the spring than the tool from crane where you just bolt down the spring. The cylinders near the firewall are a bit more difficult with it though.
Keep a pen magnet handy, you will drop a keeper or 2, also I filled up the oil holes in the head just so I didn't accidently drop one through it, just a precaution.