I am considering having a Cam installed on my 2006 C6 with the A6. Here are the Cam Specs.

Duration
Intake 224 ; Exhaust 220
Lift
Intake 581; Exhaust 581
Lobe Seperation 116

I am wanting to get some opinions on the improvements this type of Cam will deliver. My goal is to increase by 35 TO 40 hp and torq. Most importantly I am wanting to improve the low end performance as well as gain additional power. I have noticed with some upgrades Low end performance is sacrificed for High end numbers. I autocross and run track days with my car so that is why I am concerned about the low end numbers. Motorsports Tech has told me this CAM will dleiover the improvements I am looking for what do you guy's think this upgrade will deliver. If someone has their Dyno Sheet from a Cam install with similar spec's I would appreciate seeing the results.

Also if anyone has any better options I would appreciate the help.

My current mods are listed below

Vararam CAI
Ported Intake and Throtle Body
1.8 Crane Roller Rocker package
LG Long tube Headers
Borla Exhaust
Tune

After the tune several months ago I was at 374 RWHP and 373 FtLbs TQ. I am wanting to get into the 400's but retain the Low End Torq and Power.

Randy

 

Maybe gears would be a better option?
Or gears + Cam

 

I have an A6 a;so and have a 228/232 cam in My Vette.
Call Dan Millen at Livernois Motorsports{Forum vendor} and ask His opinion!
He set Me up with a GREAT cam!

 

this is an MTI Stealth 2 cam right? I heard it's great for stock cars!

 

This grind is referred to as a "reverse split" pattern in that the intake duration is greater than the exhaust. This will tend to increase combustion pressure, improve low-end and mid-range TQ at the expense of HP above 5500 RPMs. This pattern will work well with LT headers, not as well with stock exhaust.

The grind also features a fairly wide lobe separation angle (LSA of 116 degrees). This will improve your idle quality, and tend to smoothe out the TQ curve. This is good for street performance, especially for an auto tranny. IMHO, it is also probably good for autocross.

However, since you already have 1.8:1 high-ratio rockers, the .581" lift could be a problem. The cam is probably based on a Comp Cams XE-R lobe (very common), and Comp Cams usually cautions not to use high-ratio rockers with that lobe. If you want to retain your rockers, you might pick a grind based on an XE lobe, with lift in the .550" range.

 

I installed this exact cam in my 99 FRC with great results. Power everywhere from idle up to 6600 RPM where the limiter was set. Used Kooks 1.75 headers and stock heads.

Very smooth performer with a strong hit around 3K. However, bottom end appeared just as strong as stock so I can't really say there was any sacrifice with this cam.

Some lifter noise but not bothersome. Comments about hi ratio arms are probably value. I would ask MTI.........
Good luck!

 

Thanks

How much power was gain when you guys installed this Cam.

Should I consider doing the heads at the same time and if so is it any cheaper based on any labor savings..

 

I had the same concerns as you: 1. fearing loss of low end torque and 2. bad drivability on my daily driver.

But I was also concerned that if I got a smaller cam I would not be pleased with the minimal gains over my bolt on car. So I took the plunge and had a G5x3, .040 cometic gaskets and an underdrive pulley installed by Horsepower Sales in Pompano (HPSFLORIDA) here on the forum. As usual guys, great job, zero issues.

The dyno sheet below shows my G5x3 cam vs. boltons only vs. stock (stock was my buddy's identical car).

As it shows, my concern for loss of low end torque was unfounded - I actually gained 8 ft-lbs of torque at 3200, but I did lose 6 ft-lbs at 4000, so overall not bad and my torque peak is 18 ft-lbs higher. Peak HP is 51 higher. You can feel these differences. I think the .040 Cometic gasket helped a lot to keep my low end torque reasonable.

I am EXTREMELY pleasantly surprised how drivable this car is. I self tune but I'm a newbie... so I bought a mail order tune from Charlie @ RPM Motors Inc. here on the forum for $150. Best money I spent, he did a great job. Fueling was spot on - we were surprised at that. I spent a week tweaking my VE and MAF and I have my LTFT's at 3 at idle 0-1 at cruise which is great for a big cam. It starts hot & cold, runs, idles, never stalls and barely bucks (only at 1100 in 6th). I've tuned LS1 computers - the LS2 computer is so much faster and so much easier to tune. I'm so glad I didn't get a smaller cam now that I know how easy it is to tune the LS2.

Here's the dyno sheet.

 

380 bhp on a Dyno jet with stock heads on a 98 degree day with stock thermostat. Had to pull some timing out due to detonation so I would expect a few more horses are available with lower temp stat.
Idle was left untouched at 750 and a slight lope was apparent.

A great street cam with no real minuses that I could find. Good luck with your decision.

 

Joe_G: what's your idle rpm and at what rpm can you idle along in first gear?

 

850 rock solid. I never paid attention to how low it will idle in first, that part of my driving didn't change, it's fine in stop and go traffic. It will buck some at 1200 in 6th and it doesn't really like the cruise control at 40 in 6th. I used to use that to keep speed in a trap. It does better if you gear down at 40 or don't use cruise control. Other than that I've not noticed any downside to the cam. Except my gas mileage is down to 16 in my daily drive from 19 mostly city, but my recent tanks have included dyno time and a lot of HP Tuners WOT logging time on a local track so I expect it to go back up 1 mpg or so if I can ever keep my foot out of it.

Note I have 3.90 gears that help my low end response with or without cam.