Check Engine Light just came on . . .Darn
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Brandon Mississippi
Check Engine Light just came on . . .Darn UPDATE!
[COLOR="Red"]My 2006 MN6 Coupe with 12k miles decided to turn on the check engine light. I had just filled the gas tank up and had about 30 miles on it when the light came on. The car runs fine no warnings in the dic. I have since checked the gas cap for tightness, it was ok. I then filled up with gas again and made double sure the cap was on tight turning it for several clicks. My only mod is a cags eliminator and it still works fine. Is there a chance it is still the cags? If not I will have to take it in and in that case should I remove the cags?
Anyone else with this situation
UPDATE
Removed the CAGS eliminator last night. One of the wires in the eliminator just came right out in my hand,
Here is the surprize. the CEL went out on its own on the 3rd engine start
I thought it was going to take a reader, neg battery terminal removal or 40 starts to do that. Any thoughts?
Thanks for all the input. Oh yea buy the way I changed out my Diff fluid for AMSOIL and their additive. Last dealer change lasted 2000 miles before groan and occasional chatter came back. Time will tell.
Anyone else with this situation
UPDATE
Removed the CAGS eliminator last night. One of the wires in the eliminator just came right out in my hand,
Here is the surprize. the CEL went out on its own on the 3rd engine start
I thought it was going to take a reader, neg battery terminal removal or 40 starts to do that. Any thoughts?Thanks for all the input. Oh yea buy the way I changed out my Diff fluid for AMSOIL and their additive. Last dealer change lasted 2000 miles before groan and occasional chatter came back. Time will tell.
Last edited by nalto; Sep 8, 2007 at 04:52 PM. Reason: UPDATE
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 6
From: Montreal Qc
My 2006 MN6 Coupe with 12k miles decided to turn on the check engine light. I had just filled the gas tank up and had about 30 miles on it when the light came on. The car runs fine no warnings in the dic. I have since checked the gas cap for tightness, it was ok. I then filled up with gas again and made double sure the cap was on tight turning it for several clicks. My only mod is a cags eliminator and it still works fine. Is there a chance it is still the cags? If not I will have to take it in and in that case should I remove the cags?
Anyone else with this situation
Anyone else with this situation
When you install the CAGS you unplug the harness from the transmission which will right away disable the "forced shift feature", by plugging in the cags device you just fool the car into thinking it is still hooked up and working correctly. What seems to be happening is the resistor in the cags is probably too cheap and/or too small in wattage and it burns out. Once this happens the CEL comes on because it thinks there is a problem with the circuit.
Many places will clear the CEL for you at no charge. You could get it cleared, then reconnect your cags for a week or two, if you don't get the CEL back reconnect the cags and see what happens. If the CEL comes on you will know it is a defective cags.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 2
From: Dallas Tx
If the CAGs defeat is still working it's probably not the CAGs causing the light.
Many parts stores will read codes for free. Stop at a big Chain parts store and see if they will plug in a scanner and check the codes. If you have Onstar, they can also check codes.
Might just need a new gas cap. The slightest leak can trigger the light to come on.
Many parts stores will read codes for free. Stop at a big Chain parts store and see if they will plug in a scanner and check the codes. If you have Onstar, they can also check codes.
Might just need a new gas cap. The slightest leak can trigger the light to come on.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Brandon Mississippi
It is very possible it is the cags. I know of several vette owners who are having a similar problem.
When you install the CAGS you unplug the harness from the transmission which will right away disable the "forced shift feature", by plugging in the cags device you just fool the car into thinking it is still hooked up and working correctly. What seems to be happening is the resistor in the cags is probably too cheap and/or too small in wattage and it burns out. Once this happens the CEL comes on because it thinks there is a problem with the circuit.
Many places will clear the CEL for you at no charge. You could get it cleared, then reconnect your cags for a week or two, if you don't get the CEL back reconnect the cags and see what happens. If the CEL comes on you will know it is a defective cags.
When you install the CAGS you unplug the harness from the transmission which will right away disable the "forced shift feature", by plugging in the cags device you just fool the car into thinking it is still hooked up and working correctly. What seems to be happening is the resistor in the cags is probably too cheap and/or too small in wattage and it burns out. Once this happens the CEL comes on because it thinks there is a problem with the circuit.
Many places will clear the CEL for you at no charge. You could get it cleared, then reconnect your cags for a week or two, if you don't get the CEL back reconnect the cags and see what happens. If the CEL comes on you will know it is a defective cags.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
Likes: 26
From: Austin Texas
First thing to try would be a re-boot. Disconnect the Neg terminal on the battery for a couple of minutes then reconnect it (you'll have to re-index your windows and you probably lose avg speed and avg mpg). Then if the CEL comes back on you can pull the code and find out why.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 2
From: Dallas Tx
If you feel like crawling under the car, take an ohm meter and see if the CAGs defeat module still has resistance. Should be around 2K Ohms I think. When they are bad, it will show open.
If you don't want to crawl under, stop at a parts store that offers free code checking.
After the problem is fixed it takes a few drive cycles to turn the check engine light off. So if you find a bad CAGs and unplug it, don't be surprised if it takes a couple days for the light to go off. Or a scan tool can be used to clear the codes and turn off the light.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Buford Ga
Did you leave your car running while you put gas in it? I have done this before and it cause a Service engine light. I know on alot of cars the service engine light is usually only related to emissions problems. Wouldn't a service trans. light come on if it were the cages.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Brandon Mississippi
Did you leave your car running while you put gas in it? I have done this before and it cause a Service engine light. I know on alot of cars the service engine light is usually only related to emissions problems. Wouldn't a service trans. light come on if it were the cages.
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That was my problem and solution when my check engine light came on with 4K miles on it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Brandon Mississippi
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 0
From: az
UPDATE
Removed the CAGS eliminator last night. One of the wires in the eliminator just came right out in my hand,
Here is the surprize. the CEL went out on its own on the 3rd engine start I thought it was going to take a reader, neg battery terminal removal or 40 starts to do that. Any thoughts?
Removed the CAGS eliminator last night. One of the wires in the eliminator just came right out in my hand,
Here is the surprize. the CEL went out on its own on the 3rd engine start
I thought it was going to take a reader, neg battery terminal removal or 40 starts to do that. Any thoughts?