I am looking to add a cam. I have AR headers, x-pipe with cats and tune making 378/371. This is a C6 Z51 with manual tranny.

I want to add more power on the top end but still keep most of my low end torque(2k-3k). This is a daily driver and my only car. I definitely like the sound of the cam at idle, but don't want too much shake.

I will add ported TB and intake too with underdrive pully.

I am thinking of a 224/228 with 59x lift. I am not sure about the LSA, 112-114. What do you think? Any recommendations.

 

The comp cams 224/228/581/588/114 is what I used with headers, cat back, 160 stat, stinger intake, and a tune. got 410rwhp/384rwtq. Great daily driver cam. Idle quality Etc. Added a FAST 90 intake and jumped to 425/405. Added 215 E heads jumped to 461/435. It was still a great daily driver and got 28MPG highway. The cam worked with everything I added. I stoped there because I wanted to have it live a long life with stock internals. That motor now lives in my son's 2002 C5. It went in at 50,000 on the motor and is still going strong. Since I wanted more I moved to a forged 427 motor, and it's still my daily driver making 525rwhp/500rwtq.

 

I started out just like you - I went with the G5x3 and by putting in a Cometic .040 gasket I kept my low end basically the same.

The key is to raise the compression to keep low end reasonable.

I also recommend the 114. I had a 226/226 on a 112 cam in my C5 and it didn't run nearly as well around town. My car runs basically like stock, always idles, never dies, hot starts fine, etc. The ls2 computer is faster and easier to tune IHMO but the 114 makes it more like stock.

Here's my write up with more details and video including my dyno sheet stock, bolt on only, and with cam.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1769681

I posted up a dyno sheet of my car and my buddy's C5 Z with a G5x2 overlaid in that thread. Take a look at how much his low end torque is - partially from having a 18 CI smaller engine but more importantly, he didn't put in the thinner gasket and thus increase compression so his low end is much lower.

 

Thanks for the input. I love the way the car feels from idle to about 4500 so I am hoping to add some at the top without losing the bottom.

It sounds like an LSA of 114 is the way to go. I am hoping to get close to 420rwhp with a underdrive pulley, ported intake and TB without losing the fat torque curve. I am in CA so raising the compression ratio scares me with the 91 gas.

I know I will need new springs, but is there anything else I should consider on the stock heads; different lifters or pushrods?

 

Tony - Advanced Dyno installed a 228/232 .588/.595 on a 115 in my car (I also have dynatech headers, x-pipe, cat, Halltech CAI) and here are my numbers:

 

If what you're shooting for is 420 rwhp, then Lingenfelter's GT16 cam (224/228 .581 .588 114) will put you right there with the underdrive pulley and a really good tune.

 

Lifters are fine, you need hardened pushrods but they are cheap. I like Patriot Gold Extreme dual springs, great value at <$300 including seals and TI retainers.

 

I just made an appointment with Vengeance Racing for a cam & pulley.
I am in the same situation.
My C6 is my DD and like to take long road trips.
Here are my choices:

VRX1- 220/220 .581/.581 112/113/114 LSA

VRX2- 224/228 .581/.588 112/113/114 LSA

VRX3 226/228 .585/.588 112/113/114 LSA

VRX4 228/230 .588/.592 112/113/114 LSA

VRX5 236/238 .601/.605 112/113/114 LSA

VRX6 238/240 .605/.609 112/113/114 LSA

VRX7 244/248 .612/.596 112/113/114 LSA

I am thinking of the VRX5 on a 114 LSA???
I heard a CTS-V with the VRX5 on a 113 LSA, sounded very good, just don't want too much chopp.

 

Originally Posted by MAJ Z06
Stephen it's Todd,

Here's the deal, if I get stationed in Germany I want my '05 to pass the visual inspection so no headers, and I want a cam that is close to stock in idle and drivability. The only aftermarket cam I'm familiar with, and like, is my brother-in-law’s in his LS1 Camaro here is what he says about his: “Thunder Racing 224/224 .563"/.563" with 112 LSA.It's a mid-size cam that's a good daily driver. On most installs, it'll start right up and run fine without even a tune. And run the a/c full blast in 100+ heat. Lots of folks with stock 346 LS1s can crank out 380rwhp all day long w/o heads. If you stepped up to a stroker or even an LS2, you might could get away with something a
little bigger, like 231/231. I made 404rwhp and 386rwtq with that cam, MTI stage 2 heads, some cheap Pacesetter headers, and a poorly designed catted Y-pipe.”

I believe a cam in this range with 4.11 gears would be a great sleeper combo and over come the extra weight of the C6 Z51 compared to my old ’02 Z06. What do you think and what do you recommend?

Todd,

Sounds like my "Bunny" cam - a sleeper all the way on a 115LSA, the idle is almost completely stock. 380rwhp is possible without headers and a moderate tune. Yes, you could go bigger like up to my Monster but it will not sound stock - but it will make more power.

Let me know if this helps.

Stephen
www.englandgreen.com

 

I need to plead ignorance on the cam install as it "really is". What exactly do you need to upgrade or replace to put in a new cam without changing heads etc... From what I see it looks like the cam itself, lifters and push rods?? Is a tune mandatory afterwards? Last, how long and/or how much should it cost?

Thanks
Dennis

 

A cam swap is pretty simple with a LS1/LS2. You do not need to pull the intake manifold and lifters like on the old small block.

Parts needed: New cam, new valve springs, new front harmonic balancer bolt. Parts recommended: titanium valve spring retainers, new hardened push rods. I also replaced the timing chain on my LS1, but it's not necessary with the LS2 unless it's a high mileage engine.

Procedure: pull or move steering rack, radiator, & a/c condenser. Pull front harmonic balancer (need 3 jaw puller). Pull water pump and front cam cover. Pull coils & valve covers. Take off the rocker arms and pull all push rods. Take off timing chain and gear. Spin the cam, put in some 5/16" rods to hold up the lifters (or just take the chance called the Russian roulette method). Pull out old cam, lube up and put in the new cam. Use either the top dead center method or compressed air in the cylinders along with the "Larry" or "Crane" tool and remove and replace the valve springs. Go in reverse and replace everything.


Good luck,
Glenn