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Quick question: Has anyone had any C6 clutch problems? By that I mean it's sticking to the floor...Down in Eureka Springs a friend with an 06 C6's clutch got stuck (this happened way back when they had about 500 miles on it...but it fixed itself and never happened it again) until this weekend. Except this time it didn't fix itself! Had to call a tow truck!
Another friend SAME WEEKEND with an '07 Z06 JUST had it happen to him this weekend (i'd say the Z has about 2500 miles on it) but his fixed itself
Pretty ironic to have 2 C6's have their clutch pedal stick to the floor
Can anyone shed some light on this so i can pass the information along?
I checked NHSTA for service bulletins and recalls...NOTHING
look for "ranger" post. he does it all and it may even be in a sticky at the top. turkey baster, 5 or 6 emptyings and refillings, pumping pedal a lot, maybe again in a week or so if DD, good to go.
Quick question: Has anyone had any C6 clutch problems? By that I mean it's sticking to the floor...Down in Eureka Springs a friend with an 06 C6's clutch got stuck (this happened way back when they had about 500 miles on it...but it fixed itself and never happened it again) until this weekend. Except this time it didn't fix itself! Had to call a tow truck!
Another friend SAME WEEKEND with an '07 Z06 JUST had it happen to him this weekend (i'd say the Z has about 2500 miles on it) but his fixed itself
Pretty ironic to have 2 C6's have their clutch pedal stick to the floor
Can anyone shed some light on this so i can pass the information along?
I checked NHSTA for service bulletins and recalls...NOTHING
Yes...this is EXACTLY what i was looking for....me being a female and all.... guys usually "thinking" that we don't know what we're talking about....I needed this info in black and white! Thank you sooo much!!!!
This is due to a design flaw (effects more than just Vettes) in 1) how the clutch line is run on the car (it is run REALLY close to the exhaust which helps boil the fluid under regular driving (time depends on driving style)) 2) the type of clutch fluid that is in the car from the factory (DOT3 = lower boil point) and 3) clutch itself has a pretty poor pressure plate.
There is a guy on here named Ranger that has suggested a procedure in which you routinely flush the clutch fluid and add DOT4 fluid (procedure is easily found with a search on this forum). This works BUT imo, is band aid fix. Again, it does work but it does not fix the root problem.
If you are fine with flushing the fluid every couple weeks/month, then by all means, use that method.
If you want the real fix for the root problem, then you should wrap the clutch line in some sort of heat shielding AND replace the OEM clutch with a stronger aftermarket (I used Centreforce) clutch.
This is due to a design flaw (effects more than just Vettes) in 1) how the clutch line is run on the car (it is run REALLY close to the exhaust which helps boil the fluid under regular driving (time depends on driving style)) 2) the type of clutch fluid that is in the car from the factory (DOT3 = lower boil point) and 3) clutch itself has a pretty poor pressure plate.
There is a guy on here named Ranger that has suggested a procedure in which you routinely flush the clutch fluid and add DOT4 fluid (procedure is easily found with a search on this forum). This works BUT imo, is band aid fix. Again, it does work but it does not fix the root problem.
If you are fine with flushing the fluid every couple weeks/month, then by all means, use that method.
If you want the real fix for the root problem, then you should wrap the clutch line in some sort of heat shielding AND replace the OEM clutch with a stronger aftermarket (I used Centreforce) clutch.
The real issue here is that the clutch slave cylinder in located in the bell housing where all the high heat is. The Ranger method will work, but you should really hit the dealer and get it flushed out and refilled with dot 4 sync.
look for "ranger" post. he does it all and it may even be in a sticky at the top. turkey baster, 5 or 6 emptyings and refillings, pumping pedal a lot, maybe again in a week or so if DD, good to go.
Ranger is the man- done everything possible w/ the C6, wise men say.
I've made about 500 passes at the drag strip and 70K street miles without clutch pedal woes by following this protocol: Taking Care of Your Clutch
C6s come stock with GM-brand Super DOT4 brake fluid in the clutch hydraulics, but only DOT3 in the brake hydraulics. That tell you that GM knows that heat and moisture absorption present a bigger issue for the clutch than the brakes.
Keeping the clutch fluid clear and clean will normally prevent pedal woes.
On the C6Z there is a separate issue with overheating the clutch on launch by performing a slow clutch release. That is a launch technique to avoid.
There are actually 3 reasons I know of for clutch stickage.
One is the TSB related to the defective clutch that applies only to a few cars, and only at high RPMs.
Two is the bad clutch fluid. Ranger's the expert on this, and it certainly won't hurt (and almost certainly will help) to follow his advice.
Three is the frickin' frackin' clutch return / assist spring. This contraption is meant to serve as a return spring, returning the pedal to the full up position but also serves as an assist spring, making it easier to hold the clutch pedal down. In addition to making the clutch feel very non-linear it can get out of alignment and cause the pedal to stick on the floor. The best fix I know of is to replace the miserable piece of metal with a C5 spring, which is similar but less aggressive.
The racers in our Corvette club keep their clutch fluid clean by frequent changes. A mix of C5s and C6s, all have stock clutch pedal springs. None have ever seen the need to experiment with pedal springs because their pedals remain totally normal with clean clutch fluid.
I had the same thing happen twice. After reading ranger's post on the issue and looking at the greasey gunk in my clutch reservor I started removing and replacing fluid regulary. Very simple to do, I use a suringe to suck the fluid out, w hole process takes about five minutes. I do it about every two weeks. Have not had a problem since.
The real issue here is that the clutch slave cylinder in located in the bell housing where all the high heat is. The Ranger method will work, but you should really hit the dealer and get it flushed out and refilled with dot 4 sync.
Brian
Yeah, you are right. The clutch slave within the bell housing is def another design flaw and helps cook the fluid and should have been a 4th reason in my post.
Thanks for your post man, I printed it out and brought it to my dealer. They are doing the fluid flush and putting in DOT4 sync at my request all under warranty. Thanks again.
Owners need to keep in mind that bleeding the clutch at the dealer is a short-term fix. If you drive the car aggressively, the clutch fluid degrades rapidly and the pedal will begin sticking again, certainly within 500-1000 miles or 10 passes at the drag strip.
By far the easiest path to keeping the fluid fresh and clean is via the reservoir.
Owners need to keep in mind that bleeding the clutch at the dealer is a short-term fix. If you drive the car aggressively, the clutch fluid degrades rapidly and the pedal will begin sticking again, certainly within 500-1000 miles or 10 passes at the drag strip.
By far the easiest path to keeping the fluid fresh and clean is via the reservoir.
Ranger
I agree - and as a second data point, I've got 44,000 miles and 200+ drag strip passes on the stock clutches in 2 Vettes, no problem with either, once I started using the frequent syringe and refill method. Before I learned about the method I had the stuck clutch at the track on my C5. I knew better by the time I got my C6.
I do it each time before I go drag racing and after I get home. When your fluid is basically clean it takes 1 minute tops to keep it that way. I forgot to do it once and my pedal got a little spongy at the track. The technique works and is so easy to do I can't believe people argue about it.
On the C6Z there is a separate issue with overheating the clutch on launch by performing a slow clutch release. That is a launch technique to avoid.
Ranger
This isn't just a deal with the C6Z, this has been a problem with the C6 since they first came out in 2004. Remember the TSB they had a few years ago on this exact problem? Something to do with a chitty pressure plate or something. Don't remember the details.
Ride the clutch a little too long and expect it to stick.
UPDATE on the problem. Hey i just spoke to the couple that broke down in Eureka Springs....turns out "she said" it was the master cylinder! I found that kinda odd if the clutch was sticking to the floor...but i'm a chic and what do i know anyway!!!
They also said it took so long to get the part because the master cylinders were backordered!!!!! Could this mean theres a big problem/recall with the C6 masters?