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Shocks can HELP wheel hop, but from testing on several other cars (some GM, some not) I've found wheel hop to be a function of drivetrain wind-up. Stiffening up the drivetrain mounts addresses the root cause, but you pay a penalty in NVH.
Lol, this thread makes me smile. I can't drive my car with 463 rwhp, so lets give it 650 and see how it goes. Sorry, no offense you just remind me of... well me.
I have Bilstiens I'm installing tomorrow. I've got a lil north of 500rwhp we'll see how it goes. When the blower goes on, all bets are off.
Shocks can HELP wheel hop, but from testing on several other cars (some GM, some not) I've found wheel hop to be a function of drivetrain wind-up. Stiffening up the drivetrain mounts addresses the root cause, but you pay a penalty in NVH.
There are several contributing factors, including IRS suspension, compliance of tire sidewalls, and suspension movement control (damping). The C6 has it all: IRS, rock-hard EMT sidewalls, and shocks that have particularly weak rebound control. Because the tires are ultra- stiff, they tend to bounce when oscillation begins, magnifying the effect and feeding back into the system. The shocks fail to control this. Bilsteins, Koni FSD, Penskes etc have far more effective wheel control because thay have larger pistons, and so help control wheelhop.
They will make it better, but the danger is always there when you have EMTs.
Stiffer control arm bushings, as you indicate, can be an important factor in improving suspension control (and reducing wheelhop) by limiting deflection.
Last edited by TTRotary; Oct 29, 2007 at 01:19 PM.
These were shocks from my C6 Z51 with 6000 miles on them. I will admit that when I first helped my friend change shocks on his C5 Z51 that we did use rope. However, when it came time to change the Z51 shocks on my C6 I didn't want to go to the hassle of tying everything up. If you ever need to replace shocks again, try the brute force method. If I can do it, so can you.
I tried the Brute Force method. There was no way I was going to compress them. I even tried using a crow bar. That compressed them, but extended out again.
I agree....My Fresh Base shocks carried a LOT more pressure than the Bilsteins. It was impossible to compress them by hand for removal while on the car..
the base had more pressure than the bilsteins, that don't make sense, the bilsteins are suppose to have a higher rebound rate.
I'm not saying they won't help anyone, but they didn't help me. A lot depends on the driver and mods, gears, etc. I looked into adjustable shocks and there are people that will make them for about $1500. They were mostly road race guys that would adapt something for drag racing....with NO Guarantees?? I need more practice....I'm trying to talk Dave into a track rental again this year at Atco. That was the way to go. Start putting pressure on Cartek....we need a track rental
We'll see how it is in a few weeks with 650hp....bet it will just smoke
Rob your right we need a late nov or dec track rental. with lots of track prep. i wont take that bet, with all that power you will be smoking something, clutch or tires. but maybe with ets streets and cautious driving it will be in the 9s
the base had more pressure than the bilsteins, that don't make sense, the bilsteins are suppose to have a higher rebound rate.
they are thicker also
It's not about the pressure...It's about the valving....Gas pressurized shocks are that way primarily to keep the shock fluid from frothing so they remain more consistant..I would think extremely high pressures would have more affect on COMPRESSION damping which does seem to be a bit high in these cars (hence the harshness)
The Bilstein's are a great upgrage. Putting them on was a breeze in comparison to doing struts.
I would recommend retaining and using the front upper bushing in lieu of that provided bushing. Just looks more substantial.
Also, if you remove the front upper control arms, be sure to keep track of where the rear spacers go, as they are used to control the front end alignment. Carefully reinstall the control arm bolts as the bushings have a tendency to keep the mount somewhat on an angle. Surely don't want to cross-thread one of the frame tappings.
Lastly, I found that by using the jack under the lower control arm, I was easily able to compress the shock and get everything aligned properly.
on my base model the ride got much better!!!!!!!! {sports} I used mechanic's wire to keep the shock compressed for install. shockwarehouse.com $304.00 shipped all four
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Originally Posted by KarlK
hahaha......installation of links and urethane bushings went fine and it feels a bit firmer in corners, minimal body roll if any at all.
The stock bushings were already showing some wear and the rubber material is very soft compared to the Pfadt urethane bushings.
That makes sense. @ 27K on my yr old Z51, I can already tell that the suspension has gotten soft. Compaired to most, I've already racked up 3 to 4 times the normal miles driven so it is time to tweek things. I do appreciate the reply.
From: Beats UD regularly playing 3D chess, and at life
Originally Posted by MikeyTX
That makes sense. @ 27K on my yr old Z51, I can already tell that the suspension has gotten soft. Compaired to most, I've already racked up 3 to 4 times the normal miles driven so it is time to tweek things. I do appreciate the reply.
I had the stock links go bad at 16K and went ahead and ordered the urethane bushings with the heavy duty links.
I belive the Urethane bushings make the difference.
The stock bushings were rounded out and much softer than the Pfadt urethane bushings.
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