First off, if I offend anybody I'm sorry.

Last night my shocks came in and after reading a previous post where many members beat the crap out of some poor guy about his install and non use of fancy ratchety straps or sacrifices to Zues, or whatever I had to approach this with an attempt to duplicate his simplistic method of just "pushing them in".

I've been doing this all my life, so perhaps I have an advantage, I dunno. These cars have transverse leaf springs. So, I find it easier to jack up a SIDE at a time. I do the front and rear driver's side at the same time. So, here's how it goes. Jack up the car using the rear jacking location. Have a second jack handy and of course support the car so you don't kill your self. Remove wheels. If you don't have an impact gun you should probably loosen the lugs before you jack the car up, but if you are doing this yourself I would figure you got at least that much sense.

FRONT:
Using the second jack raise the front lower control arm. Loosen the top shock mount. Its 15mm and to hold the shaft use an adjustable wrench or long 1/4". Loosen the top ball joint nut. Now here is where we get into arguments. I've heard all the whining about taking the suspension apart. This takes 20 seconds. Seriously I timed it. And I was handing out candy from the garaga and drinking a beer. Remove the 18mm nut, slap the upper area of the spindle with a chinglealie (hammer) enough to get some resonance and pull the spindle away from the upper arm. If you think strapping a shock is easier than this you probably should not be working on cars. I make tools all the time but to say this is impossible without this ratchety strap thing is just misleading. Lower the jack on the control arm and keep an eye on the brake line. Loosen the 13mm bolts/nuts on the lower shock mount and push slightly up and over towards the back of the car and the shock comes right out. I have a Z51 no problem. New shock goes in like the old one comes out. Slide it in from the back side with the bushing in place on the shaft. Push slightly up and over and done. The lower mounts will not be at the right angle so you may have to finagle with the bolts and apply some form of pressure (chinglealie, thread them in) to get it lined up. Top nut should b e tightened with wieght on the car. I just jack up the control arm cause I have to put the spindle back together. Don't overtighten the top nuts and mushroom out the bushings too much. I'd use loctite on the bolts but I was out and I take the thing apart every other week anyway. You people use locktite.

Rear:
Remove two 13mm bolts on the top shock mount. The nuts are welded to the body so don't worry about them. Remove lower 24mm nut and bolt on shock. Push slightly up and toward rear and it will come slide out. No need to disassemble anything. When I went to put the Bilstiens in they were actually a little too short. I had to pull down slightly to get the bolt in. Remember to assemble the top shock mount the right way. It won't fit upside down Ask me how I know.

This took me 2.5 hours sipping beer, handing out candy and laughing at the poor guy who nobody believed. While ingenious, there is no need for a strap, or compression system. Just load one side of the car at a time. Granted I did take apart a control arm, but its just so friggin easy I didn't even want to try to fight it in any other way.
I think I could have easily just pushed it in. If you are going to do this I suggest this method with all my heart. If you want to do it anyother way, hey its your party.

Reviews:
Car rides much nicer. I actually love the feel now. Wheel hop. Its about 1000 times WORSE. I rolled into the throttle at 30 mph and it was just ungodly horrible. It hopped thru 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. If I had a C6 rear in my car it would have exploded.

I'm not too concerned because these dampers have a known break in period. They are suppsoed to work better after a few thousand miles. So, We'll have to wait and see. Unfortunately I'm going to Kuwait for a long time to go fight for freedom We'll have to wait till I get back to see if they get any better.

 

I had the same reaction when testing wheel hop. It was there until the shocks broke in. It seemed to be gone in hot weather and greatly reduced in cold weather.

It took me 90 minutes for all 4 to go in.

I wish I had wheel hop in 3rd. It would mean I had the TQ to spin out the gear on a throttle roll-in.

 

I only make 470rwtq. Thats not all that impressive.

Call me I have to ask u something.

 

I had the bilsteins installed at belle tire. Good job too. Went to the track in lapeer Mi and wheel hopped like crazy. I could'nt even post a decent time due to wheel hop and worries of blowing something up. I thought this was supposed to stop wheel hop. I have about 500 miles on thim now. I still have my Z51 shocks and am thinking of putting them back in.

 

Nice write up!

 

Thanks for the instructions, maybe I will go ahead and try the shock replacement at home.
I remember reading long time ago that the rear lower shock bolt needed to be replaced because it is tightened to a tension that makes the bolts not recommended to reuse? I think it was a TSB or something. Is that still a concern or no big deal?
I've replaced struts many times on my previous cars and never replaced any bolts during the swap and never had problems...

 

nice write up I had Bilstiens installed yesterday, drove about 100 miles today, what can I say, on the street very nice, not a harsh ride, on the highway, the car handles like a dream, planted tight on turns, no rear hops on turns w/ bumps, off the line hard acceleration....no problems, no hopping, anyone have $350 to blow on a nice mod, money well spend!

(08 LS3, MN6, Z51)


I asked my installer, how hard was it to install? he looked at me that I'm , he said, no problem, just like changing any shocks

 

This is one reason I didn't opt for the Z51 package. I will replace the parts I feel are not adequate depending on what I decide to do with the car.

San

 

However, if you start with the Z51 package you will most likely have to replace fewer parts. The Z51 works great. I run autocrosses and a lot of people run HPDE's and the Z51 is quicker than the base suspension. Plus you get the extra coolers that would be extremely expensive to add. I like the idea of starting with the better package and making changes to suit your tastes.

 

Unfortunately I don't think any of the parts included in the Z51 package are what I want. I'm not into autocross (too short). Open lapping is more my style. If I decide to get serious, the stock parts won't cut it (imho). The shocks will be replaced by coilovers (lighter, customized rates, and allow for accurate corner balancing). The sways/mounts will be Hotchkis (lighter, stiffer, and adjustable). The tires will be be goal specific. The brakes will be upgraded (calipers, lines, fluid, rotors, braces). I don't trust cross-drilled rotors on the track. The coolers would also be replaced with aftermarket units to match my needs (coolers are cheap, go look). Even the gearing is probably a disadvantage to me as I will probably go FI in the future. There was an identical black 07 1LT MN6 on the lot when I bought mine for $1500 more. I didn't really consider it. I know once I start modding a car I won't stop. I like the idea of starting with the less expensive package that you plan on replacing. Put your cash towards modifications you plan on living with. Just my take. Yours may/will vary.

San

 

Yes, if you are that serious, those are all excellent points. However, you don't get the better gear ratios unless you swap out the tranny. Otherwise, you are right, even the transverse springs are worthless to you because of going with coil-overs.

 

One thing I noticed at the track is that close ratio transmissions aren't always advantageous. Close ratios don't always equate to speed. Shifting takes time and time is money. Obviously tracks vary.

It's not that I'm that serious at this moment (~350 miles), but I know once I assume the position there will be no turning back. I think the Z51package is a great value for almost anyone considering doing autox or moderate track days.

I don't know its limitations, but I'd be apprehensive about pushing it seriously at the track. The rotors are slightly bigger, but I doubt the brakes are substantially more effective with regards to stopping distance. I'd be more concerned with brake fade after repeated stops.

It also feels a bit "big". I've yet to push it into a corner, but coming from AWD to RWD is night and day. It's a bit heavier to boot.

I've only been in California a few months and have already bought a vette. I have three vehicles and only two arms. I'm open to any advice and/or criticism. I'm a n00b here. But I have paid my dues elsewhere.

San

 

The OEM tires and the driver are the limitations with the Z51 package. I have 5 fairly hard HPDE days on my OEM rotors and while they have surface star like cracks and are something to watch closely on the track, they are fine for the street. I only upgraded the fluid to Motul and the pads to Carbotech XP10s. For me and about 15 days of HPDEs over the last three years, the tires and me are the best upgrade for my 07 Z51 equiped C6.

Before I take it to the track next spring I will put the base C6 brakes on and they Napa undrilled rotors on. Changing rotors is about as easy as changing pads...

The C6 does not 'turn' as easy as my last car - RX8 - but it is just something to get used to. It will respond well to left foot braking, trail braking and a throttle steering. Use as you know how...

 

I like your attitude!

 

I tend to threshold brake very aggressively. Having previously cooked Motul RBF600 at the track (and a short one) with a BBK I've only used Castrol SRF and brake vents since. I seriously doubt my stock brakes will be adequate for track use. I'm comtemplating if the Z06 brakes will be up to the task. Just me, your mileage will vary.

San

 

The Z51 comes with a tranny fluid pump to pump fluid overboard to a cooler. That is going to be a little tougher to fix. I'm sure with enough money you can add an external electrically driven fluid pump and a tranny cooler.

 

If it becomes an issue I'll look into it. I'm not into drag racing. I would bet I could just order the GM part but if not, B&M makes a unit for all of $55.

San

 

The pump is internal.... ah never mind.

 

Try QA1 adjustable rears. Worked for me.

 

Additional feedback-- installed Billies this weekend and concur with the above method. Jack up one side at a time and unbolt the UPPER control arms and it is as easy as pie. I'd budget two hours for the job once the car is jacked up with wheels off.

Pfadt's install manual for their sport shocks gives you a good step-by-step with pics for removal if you need it.

No need for straps. Save the money for your suds after the job is done.

Scott