C6 cam help
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
C6 cam help
I did a search, but didn't find the answer, so here's my question
I have an 06 C6 Automatic. It has a K&N intake, kooks headers, FAST intake manifold, upgraded rods and springs, a custom grind cam, and Borla exhaust. Note: The headers were added after the last tune, which was when the cam was installed.
Currently, my computer says that I'm running lean. However, this all depends on the outside temperature. When it's colder, I get the code. When it's warmer, usually the CEL is off. The CEL came on pretty much right after I left the dyno. Did I just get a bad tune or could there be something worse?
Also, since the cam was installed, (had a shop do it that with the rods and springs since my technical knowledge doesn't extend that far) the car will shake violently when not in neutral or park while I'm stopped at a light or in traffic. Even then, it still shakes pretty hard. It's nice and smooth when going though. I was told that, to fix this, a new torque converter would need to be installed but there was nothing available yet. This thing was installed back in January. Since then, I have called about once a month and just been told that nothing new was available.
Does anyone know of anything, besides going back to stock, that can fix my problems?
I have an 06 C6 Automatic. It has a K&N intake, kooks headers, FAST intake manifold, upgraded rods and springs, a custom grind cam, and Borla exhaust. Note: The headers were added after the last tune, which was when the cam was installed.
Currently, my computer says that I'm running lean. However, this all depends on the outside temperature. When it's colder, I get the code. When it's warmer, usually the CEL is off. The CEL came on pretty much right after I left the dyno. Did I just get a bad tune or could there be something worse?
Also, since the cam was installed, (had a shop do it that with the rods and springs since my technical knowledge doesn't extend that far) the car will shake violently when not in neutral or park while I'm stopped at a light or in traffic. Even then, it still shakes pretty hard. It's nice and smooth when going though. I was told that, to fix this, a new torque converter would need to be installed but there was nothing available yet. This thing was installed back in January. Since then, I have called about once a month and just been told that nothing new was available.
Does anyone know of anything, besides going back to stock, that can fix my problems?
Last edited by wcfarr4015; Nov 13, 2007 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Clarification
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,824
Likes: 3
From: The left Coast
St. Jude Donor '08
I sounds like you've got a pretty nice set there. The cam will cause the car to shake. Most of love the shake because it feels like the beast is trying to escape. I guess the interpretation of "violent" shaking is up for interpretation. Does the shop have a history of doing vettes? You may want to have reputable tuner check it out for you.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 8
From: NJ
The shake might get better with some tuning. You can screw with the AF tables and it will lope less. I've done it on my car, but I like the shake. My cam is bigger than yours I promise.
As far as the fueling issues. If it was tunes right, the car would compenste and never throw a light. If it is in fact a lean or rich bank as you say then you tune sucks. If its an O2 cide it may not. I like to turn my rears off, Spin leaves them on. Sometimes, and its very rare my rears throw a code. I turn them off and don't worry bout it. If its fueling then you need to tune it. I spend upwards of 15 hours tuning mine, so does Spin. Quick dyno tunes will give you peak power, but unless the guy is a complete expert, you will get issues like you describe. It takes a long time to get it perfect. Good shops can do it quick, shops with less experience will get you close but sometimes no cigar. Get it tuned and your troubles will go away. It may still shake, but if you didn't want a hot rod you should have left it stock.
Cheers!
rj
As far as the fueling issues. If it was tunes right, the car would compenste and never throw a light. If it is in fact a lean or rich bank as you say then you tune sucks. If its an O2 cide it may not. I like to turn my rears off, Spin leaves them on. Sometimes, and its very rare my rears throw a code. I turn them off and don't worry bout it. If its fueling then you need to tune it. I spend upwards of 15 hours tuning mine, so does Spin. Quick dyno tunes will give you peak power, but unless the guy is a complete expert, you will get issues like you describe. It takes a long time to get it perfect. Good shops can do it quick, shops with less experience will get you close but sometimes no cigar. Get it tuned and your troubles will go away. It may still shake, but if you didn't want a hot rod you should have left it stock.
Cheers!
rj
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Pa
I sounds like you've got a pretty nice set there. The cam will cause the car to shake. Most of love the shake because it feels like the beast is trying to escape. I guess the interpretation of "violent" shaking is up for interpretation. Does the shop have a history of doing vettes? You may want to have reputable tuner check it out for you.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll take it by a different shop this week to get it checked out. Hopefully the LS2 edit I think they used didn't lock it out so only they can edit it.
I don't remember the cam specs right now, but the card that has them is about 80 miles away at my parent's house.
Right now it idles around 700 rpm.
I know that the cam is supposed to make it shake, but when it gets to where the car is bouncing this much, it seems like something is wrong.
I don't remember the cam specs right now, but the card that has them is about 80 miles away at my parent's house.
Right now it idles around 700 rpm.
I know that the cam is supposed to make it shake, but when it gets to where the car is bouncing this much, it seems like something is wrong.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 292
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From: Chandler Arizona
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
Really? This settles it for me then. I'll admit that, beyond the basic bolt ons, I'm pretty much ignorant. I do my homework but some things still fly over my head. Guess I just need to start throwing the 
a little sooner.
Sometimes I just wonder if I did the right thing by modding my vette in the first place. But it's too late now I suppose.
a little sooner.Sometimes I just wonder if I did the right thing by modding my vette in the first place. But it's too late now I suppose.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,094
Likes: 197
From: Colorado Springs, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll take it by a different shop this week to get it checked out. Hopefully the LS2 edit I think they used didn't lock it out so only they can edit it.
I don't remember the cam specs right now, but the card that has them is about 80 miles away at my parent's house.
Right now it idles around 700 rpm.
I know that the cam is supposed to make it shake, but when it gets to where the car is bouncing this much, it seems like something is wrong.
I don't remember the cam specs right now, but the card that has them is about 80 miles away at my parent's house.
Right now it idles around 700 rpm.
I know that the cam is supposed to make it shake, but when it gets to where the car is bouncing this much, it seems like something is wrong.
Next issue is the addition of the headers. All headers make the car breath better. In closed loop that means the car willl run more lean and in WOT it will run richer. You have to retune for headers to account for the changes. The reason it has a CEL in the cold weather is that the air is more dense and it makes for a leaner A/F ratio.
There you have it.....get a 2800-3200 stall and raise the rpm to 800 and retune for the Long term fuel trends.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Nov 14, 2007 at 01:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
That seems to make sense from what little I know. The problem with the CEL is that it was coming on even BEFORE I put the headers on since I did it a little bass ackwards and did the cam before the headers. But I suppose that it just worsened when I added the headers to it.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,094
Likes: 197
From: Colorado Springs, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
That seems to make sense from what little I know. The problem with the CEL is that it was coming on even BEFORE I put the headers on since I did it a little bass ackwards and did the cam before the headers. But I suppose that it just worsened when I added the headers to it.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
I fixed the bio information like you recommended.
Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate it. Most of the time I just feel stupid reading some of this stuff, but I'm trying to learn.
My next question would have actually been for people to recommend a shop in the metro Atlanta area, but I decided to be mildly resourceful (imagine that from a newb) and scroll down. I saw that there were some forum vendors in my area in a post a little farther down the page that were recommended.
Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate it. Most of the time I just feel stupid reading some of this stuff, but I'm trying to learn.
My next question would have actually been for people to recommend a shop in the metro Atlanta area, but I decided to be mildly resourceful (imagine that from a newb) and scroll down. I saw that there were some forum vendors in my area in a post a little farther down the page that were recommended.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 8
From: NJ
Then the tune you had wasnt correct. Long term fuel trends would be zero or non positive so you wouldnt get a CEL for that. The tune was bad not the order you did things in. If some of you new guys would fill out the minimum bio info asked of you such as what town and state you are in, then recommendations of where to go to remedy the situation can be given or even if you were near me, I would fix the situation for free.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
If only I lived in NY I'd be glad to take him up on the offer. So far I have only been able to get in touch with MTI here in GA and they are going to charge me at least $100 to just look at it. No clue how much it will be to actually fix it.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Dawsonville GA
Just went to MTI Racing today. Started with 357 Horsepower and 350 Torque, cane out with 403 RWHP and 394 TQ. Not to mention the ride is a lot smoother now. Apparently the original tune was completely horrible. The guys at MTI did a great job! I'm definitely going back to them for the rest of the work I get done on my car.
