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I received my FAST intake and will start the install as soon as my garage warms up enough to where I can stand it. Denver in the winter....I digress. I read Spinmonsters post on the Fast install and it is a tremendous help. Thanks for that complete post. Here is my question:
1. How do I know after it is installed that I dont have any manifold air leaks? I remember many years ago my father using a manifold vacuum gauge after he did some work on his carburated car.
2. Do I really need a special tool for the 'quick disconnect' between the fuel line and the rails? I'm not being cheap here, it just looks like a pair of needle nose will do the job. Maybe not.
The directions make a big deal out of ensuring you dont break the top of the oil transmitter. Any tips other than lift up on the manifold before you pull forward.
Yes you will need a specal tool to take the quick disconnect fuel fitting off. Just go to the auto parts store and tell them what you are doing and they will sell you the tool. It will cost 3-4 dollars. I installed mine with no difficulcy. I did not worry about leaks because if you do it right there will not be any. I used the stock gaskets. The firewall mod. was easy as well. Good luck. I sure would not hire anyone to put it on because it is not difficult at all.
Yes you will need a specal tool to take the quick disconnect fuel fitting off. Just go to the auto parts store and tell them what you are doing and they will sell you the tool. It will cost 3-4 dollars. I installed mine with no difficulcy. I did not worry about leaks because if you do it right there will not be any. I used the stock gaskets. The firewall mod. was easy as well. Good luck. I sure would not hire anyone to put it on because it is not difficult at all.
How hard or bad was the cutting? I am just hesitant on cutting my cowl.
Yes you will need a specal tool to take the quick disconnect fuel fitting off. Just go to the auto parts store and tell them what you are doing and they will sell you the tool. It will cost 3-4 dollars. I installed mine with no difficulcy. I did not worry about leaks because if you do it right there will not be any. I used the stock gaskets. The firewall mod. was easy as well. Good luck. I sure would not hire anyone to put it on because it is not difficult at all.
I removed my intake and had it ported by C. Harris. I didn't need any special tool for the quick disconnect. I guess for 3 or 4 bucks it may be worth having, your call.
I suggest not cutting your Corvette, cut the manifold. Just use a Dremel tool to do the cutting and the sanding, take your time. I wish I would have seen Spinmonster's procedure before I modified mine, although I modified mine very close to what he did except I didn't keep the "lip" in the back, he did, which is better.
The quick disconnect has 4 little fingers inside to hold it in place. So, one only needs to compress all 4 fingers at the same time, which is what the special tool does. I didn't have the special tool at the time, so what I did was cut a piece of copper pipe about 3/4" long that has a slightly larger diameter than the fuel line, then slit it lengthwise so you can open it up, wrap it around the fuel line and close it up snug, and simply push it into the connector with your fingers. This compresses them and you can pull off the connected hose.
IMO, inserting the injectors and the fuel rails onto the FAST was a b*tch. And, the LT1 o-rings that Spin mentions I got from the Chevy dealership are for a 1997 Camaro. I don't know if these were the right ones to use or not, but they worked.
One more thing I found, keep the brake hose on the manifold and remove the hose on the brake booster side, it's easier than trying to get your hand and a pair of pliers in the back to remove the hose from the manifold. Same thing when installing the manifold, put the hose on the manifold and "thread" it thru all the wiring. Good luck!
I suggest not cutting your Corvette, cut the manifold. Just use a Dremel tool to do the cutting and the sanding, take your time. I wish I would have seen Spinmonster's procedure before I modified mine, although I modified mine very close to what he did except I didn't keep the "lip" in the back, he did, which is better.
The quick disconnect has 4 little fingers inside to hold it in place. So, one only needs to compress all 4 fingers at the same time, which is what the special tool does. I didn't have the special tool at the time, so what I did was cut a piece of copper pipe about 3/4" long that has a slightly larger diameter than the fuel line, then slit it lengthwise so you can open it up, wrap it around the fuel line and close it up snug, and simply push it into the connector with your fingers. This compresses them and you can pull off the connected hose.
IMO, inserting the injectors and the fuel rails onto the FAST was a b*tch. And, the LT1 o-rings that Spin mentions I got from the Chevy dealership are for a 1997 Camaro. I don't know if these were the right ones to use or not, but they worked.
One more thing I found, keep the brake hose on the manifold and remove the hose on the brake booster side, it's easier than trying to get your hand and a pair of pliers in the back to remove the hose from the manifold. Same thing when installing the manifold, put the hose on the manifold and "thread" it thru all the wiring. Good luck!
This may seem like a ridiculous question, but can I assume the vacuum line at the booster end is the same in diameter inlet as the manifold side. You're right it will be a lot easier to take it off the booster, but I want to have the fitting installed on the FAST done when I pull the OEM intake, so no trip to the hdwr store in the middle of install.
Also what's necessary re: oversized washers as Spin mention instead fuel rail adaptor. I am aware of the LS1 o-rings. Thanks in adavnce.
Yes, the hose is the same diameter on both sides. Just get some washers that are about 3/4" in diameter, the problem is the hold-down tabs on the fuel rails will not line up with the holes on the FAST, not even close, so the washers are used just get a good grip on those tabs to hold the fuel rails down.
I've swapped my intake a couple of times without disconnecting the fuel rail fitting, I just put a towel on the windshield and lay the connected fuel rail on it updside down. It's out of the way when you do this.
I'm in Kuwait, too bad. I live in Co Springs and would be glad to lend you a hand or a warm garage. I've do a bunch of work, a lot of it has been with Spin. I get home in June, be sure to PM me if you need a hand.
Yes, the hose is the same diameter on both sides. Just get some washers that are about 3/4" in diameter, the problem is the hold-down tabs on the fuel rails will not line up with the holes on the FAST, not even close, so the washers are used just get a good grip on those tabs to hold the fuel rails down.
So washers just go over the 4 tabs of the fuel rails? I'm not sure if I follow. 3/4 outside diameter, inside? I'm guessing just large enough to get the mounting bolts through. Do the mounting bolts go through washer then the tabs or through the washer then rest on the tabs w/ enough surface to pull it down? Everything is still on the car, so it hard to picture, how the washers will work. With this set up, do the fuel rail tabs actually tightnen down flat to the FAST, or does it just pull down enough to be secure? Again, I hate getting neck deep in a project & running to the hdwr store, hence all the questions. Thanks again.
Yes, the hose is the same diameter on both sides. Just get some washers that are about 3/4" in diameter, the problem is the hold-down tabs on the fuel rails will not line up with the holes on the FAST, not even close, so the washers are used just get a good grip on those tabs to hold the fuel rails down.
So washers just go over the 4 tabs of the fuel rails? I'm not sure if I follow. 3/4 outside diameter, inside? I'm guessing just large enough to get the mounting bolts through. Do the mounting bolts go through washer then the tabs or through the washer then rest on the tabs w/ enough surface to pull it down? Everything is still on the car, so it hard to picture, how the washers will work. With this set up, do the fuel rail tabs actually tightnen down flat to the FAST, or does it just pull down enough to be secure? Again, I hate getting neck deep in a project & running to the hdwr store, hence all the questions. Thanks again.
Your stock fuel rail doesnt line up with the bolt holes on the FAST but they are close. So if you use big oversized washers with the stock bolts in the stock holes the over sized washers catch the fuel rail and hold it down.
Thanks, you've been so helpful, I felt guilty calling during the holidays & taking your time. I have the info I said I would send re: this area, but I have been trying to get as much done on the car while I am off. It'll be in the mail Weds.
I've swapped my intake a couple of times without disconnecting the fuel rail fitting, I just put a towel on the windshield and lay the connected fuel rail on it updside down. It's out of the way when you do this.