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Im considering a underdrive pulley. I understand it will net about
10 RWHP/TQ . My question is on the install you need a bolt & possibly a washer assy . I read in other posts they come loose and cause problems. Some say you can use the same serpentine belt and others
say not. I know most kits dont include a kit with a belt. What are the down sides to an underdrive pulley ststem.
Im considering a underdrive pulley. I understand it will net about
10 RWHP/TQ . My question is on the install you need a bolt & possibly a washer assy . I read in other posts they come loose and cause problems. Some say you can use the same serpentine belt and others
say not. I know most kits dont include a kit with a belt. What are the down sides to an underdrive pulley ststem.
you have to use a different belt, it comes with new bolt and washer you use the old one to install then take it out and put the new one in also drill and pin crank, the charging drops a little at idle but is fine while driving and if you add a cam you will bring the idle up
I see LGM has a UD pulley kit and they ninclude some RED LINE POWER
STEERING FLUID. Is there anything to be gained by changing the power steering fluid and is there any kits out there for less than$300.00 shipped. ??
I see LGM has a UD pulley kit and they ninclude some RED LINE POWER
STEERING FLUID. Is there anything to be gained by changing the power steering fluid
Absolutely, just as there are gains to be had by using better engine, transmission and rear end/diff fluids.
Better power steering fluid could help in the areas of longevity and maybe even steering feel to name a few, even without an UD pulley swap.
If you are going to do a pulley swap you may as well change the cam too. You have to take almost all of the the same things off the front of the engine to change the pulley that you would for a cam. Basically the pulley is a good mod but a lot has to be done to get to it in these cars.
If you are going to do a pulley swap you may as well change the cam too. You have to take almost all of the the same things off the front of the engine to change the pulley that you would for a cam. Basically the pulley is a good mod but a lot has to be done to get to it in these cars.
My plans are to produce a 400+ HP/TQ engine with bolt ons. I guess
it would be somewhat a hastle to change out that pulley but if i could get a 15 hp gain from a pulley & a ported FAST that will put me right in there. Im already at 387hp /382 tq.
Sounds like a good idea to just get the cam done at the same time then...
How much could I expect to pay for having someone do this ???
I am not sure of what your exact cost would be since shops vary. All I know is I was on the fence about the pulley when I had my cam done at LG. But when I saw what had to be done to get to the pulley I decided to go ahead and do it then instead of having the car taken apart again at a later date and worrying about paying that labor cost on top of everything else. At LG when I did the pulley and cam together there was no extra labor charge for the pulley swap so it was a 10 HP no brainer. Personally, If I didn't do a cam I would not go through the mess or labor cost associated with the pulley swap alone.
My plans are to produce a 400+ HP/TQ engine with bolt ons. I guess
it would be somewhat a hastle to change out that pulley but if i could get a 15 hp gain from a pulley & a ported FAST that will put me right in there. Im already at 387hp /382 tq.
With your numbers the FAST should get you to 400 with or without the pulley from what I have seen. If you are doing it yourself then the pulley may not be a big deal other than time but having it installed will cost due to all the wrenching needed to get to it and putting the car back together. If you ever plan on doing a cam in the future I would wait to swap the pulley at that time and save the labor cost.
With your numbers the FAST should get you to 400 with or without the pulley from what I have seen.
He could almost definitely see that last 13rwhp+ with just the addition of a ported FAST and re-tuning...the pulley will just be that last push over the edge just in case.
If you are going to do a pulley swap you may as well change the cam too. You have to take almost all of the the same things off the front of the engine to change the pulley that you would for a cam. Basically the pulley is a good mod but a lot has to be done to get to it in these cars.
I know that to change a cam you need to remove the radiator, a/c
condenser and of course the fan assy. If this stuff must be removed to replace the UD pulley your right the labor costs would be prohibitive.
I may do a H&C in the future but for now i am only considering the ud pulley, FAST & possibly a missarine electric water pump.
I purchased an SLP underdrive pulley from Summit Racing, but have not installed it, yet. Summit told me I didn't need another belt, but I think I better call up SLP to verify that before I start tearing my baby apart. I suggest whichever company you use that manufactures the UD pulley you want, check with them if the belt is truely needed.
Question for you other guys; the drilling and pin installation, is that another kit that should be purchased to keep the new UD from spinning? And, who would carry that? Thanks!
I know that to change a cam you need to remove the radiator, a/c
condenser and of course the fan assy. If this stuff must be removed to replace the UD pulley your right the labor costs would be prohibitive.
I may do a H&C in the future but for now i am only considering the ud pulley, FAST & possibly a missarine electric water pump.
The majority of those things have to be removed and/or unbolted and moved in order to get to the pulley since it is below the timing cover. The pulley sits LOW in the car. I am not sure if the steering assembly has to be taken apart for the pulley but it did for the cam. The steering rods run in front of all that above the front suspension clip. They crammed as much stuff in front of the engine as they could due to the limited space under the hood. I suggest calling a tuner and ask what it would take for them to do it first and then decide. I have changed pulleys on two of my trucks and my 57 Chevy with ease and I thought that would be the case here too. But is isn't.
The majority of those things have to be removed and/or unbolted and moved in order to get to the pulley since it is below the timing cover. The pulley sits LOW in the car. I am not sure if the steering assembly has to be taken apart for the pulley but it did for the cam. The steering rods run in front of all that above the front suspension clip. They crammed as much stuff in front of the engine as they could due to the limited space under the hood.
Yes, to do the pulley alone the front cradle/subframe has to be dropped and I think even the steering rack has to be moved out of the way as well but I'm pretty sure that the radiator doesn't have to be moved/removed (unless doing the full cam install?).
I was told by the Spinmonster that for the pulley replacement only, one only needs to unbolt the rack and pinion, remove a couple of hoses on the driver's side and simply move the assembly toward the passenger side out of the way.
I was told by the Spinmonster that for the pulley replacement only, one only needs to unbolt the rack and pinion, remove a couple of hoses on the driver's side and simply move the assembly toward the passenger side out of the way.
That's possible too I guess, I've only seen it done (on a lift of course) by dropping the front subframe as well which of course sounds more complicated/troublesome than it really is.
I was told by the Spinmonster that for the pulley replacement only, one only needs to unbolt the rack and pinion, remove a couple of hoses on the driver's side and simply move the assembly toward the passenger side out of the way.
I took a close look at it this morning and it does look like the "POWER
STEERING CROSSMEMBER " if you will call it that needs to be removed.
Its about 1 1/2" in front of the pulley. If that is not removed you will never get a puller on the wheel to start. Now I understand why LGM supplies a bottle of RED LINE power steering fluid with their UD PULLEY
KIT. Still would need more info on that.
I took a close look at it this morning and it does look like the "POWER
STEERING CROSSMEMBER " if you will call it that needs to be removed.
Its about 1 1/2" in front of the pulley. If that is not removed you will never get a puller on the wheel to start. Now I understand why LGM supplies a bottle of RED LINE power steering fluid with their UD PULLEY
KIT. Still would need more info on that.
Does anybody have a proceedure for replacing the underdrive Pulley.
It may be cost prohibitive to gain 10 RWHP if the garages charge too much.
A ported FAST is going to get you where you want to be, but all the small mods add up...I would do the ported FAST (and TB if you didnt already get one of Jeremy's) and fluids and see if you're happy (yeah right...are we ever happy and all done??? I think we just keep running out of money....). If you are really thinking about a H/C, Id wait and do it then.