I recorded this with my driftbox yesterday. The 60' sucks. Any suggestions on launching with the runflats.


These times recorded from non prepared concrete surface.
Accel results
Speed(mph) Time(s)
0-60 04.5
0-100 09.1

Accel Distance results
Distance() Time(s) @Speed(mph)
0-60' 02.6 34.3
0-330' 05.9 73.2
0-660' 08.5 96.0
0-1320' 12.7 120.2

 

WOW, THOSE NUMBERS ARE WAAAY OFF OF REALITY

 

How would you know?

Its impossible for a C6 on the street to run

60' 02.6
330' 05.9
660' 08.5
1320' 12.7 at 120

Remember the track does not record terminal MPH but the avg of the last 60' so it is always 2-4mph slower, with that poor of a 60' the mph could be that high.

 

NO BUT WITH A 2.6 60 A D 12.7 IS IMPOSSIBLE TO RUN UNLESS YOU HAVE A TON OF MODS. WHAT KIND OF MODIFICATIONS DO YOU HAVE?

 

Get to a real track and get real times. Theres no way to tell you how to improve because we can't know conditions or accuracy.

Right now the best advice is to just give it less gas.

I thought the conclusion was that that wasnt the case anymore in the other thread talking about that?

 

Headed to the track tonight. I will log with the GPS we will see the difference.

 

I use a combo of wheel spin and clutch slippage to avoid wheel hop. Then smoothly floor it. See Ranger's threads and web site plus his articles in Fever.

 

Cool.

25psi and 3 secodn WOT "burnout" and launching at 50% throttle and rolling into full throttle about 30 feet out gives me consistant 1.9 60's on the base runflats.

Good luck...good times come with practice

I'm interested to see the comparisons also.

 

I do exactly the same as FloydSummerOf68 except I don't have the patience to roll 30 feet. I brake it up to 1200 rpm & then stomp it once moving. Been averaging 1.93 60 footers & mid 12's.

 

Ok the 30 feet is an approximation, lol...it may be 15-20...but my point is wait until you are moving so that when you stomp it you dont put em up in smoke, lol.

Just try all sorts of ways and you will eventually figure out what works best for you...all cars WILL react differently to a degree.

 

I have the GY Eagle F1 AS-C "all season" EMT's. I dont do any burnout, and find launching just from an idle gives me the 1.96-1.99's. 24-26 psi for me too.

I get slightly better 60' by easing into it like you, but get better ET's by stomping it fully from the get-go. I wont be worrying about it as much anymore, cuz got myself some DR's

 

What is not the case anymore?

Did nhra change all the tracks timming systems?

 

their was a thread saying mph was measured 60 ft before the finish line and 60 ft after in that 120 ft, but the nhra made them stop the 60 ft after because top fuel was staying on it past the finish line and their wasn't enough shutdown room, so now its measured before the finish line

 

The track was closed due to flooding. I will let you guys know how it come out once I make it to the track.

 

If inexperienced with a clutch why wouldn't your factory TC give you what you would need for a good start without wheel spin? Are there track rules reguarding using factory TC?

 

TC off and AH on for drag strip. TC was designed to maximize safety not max launch speed.

 

www.rangeracceleration.com is a great resource.

I launch from 4500 rpm to 5300 rpm depending upon track conditions, walking out the clutch and attempting to keep the revs the same (no bog) until I feel traction then going WOT as fast as possible without causing wheelspin.

It takes practice.

I wouldn't even bother with runflats, get some drag radials. You wouldn't go bowling in baseball cleats - the proper shoes increase the satisfaction of the event dramatically.

 

[QUOTE=Joe_G;1564242820I wouldn't even bother with runflats, get some drag radials. You wouldn't go bowling in baseball cleats - the proper shoes increase the satisfaction of the event dramatically.[/QUOTE]

True...though Evilways sure seems to gets a lot of pleasure out of his at burnouts on runflats!

 

You're right about that....but I'm too cheap!! DR's are $180 each and runflats are $350!!