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What all do you have to remove to get to the flywheel?
Has anyone done a write up with pics?
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You need the manual. If its a Z51 then you have trans cooler lines. The cradle comes down while the dirveline is supported by a jack. Exhaust is off and the tunnel plate gets removed. Unbolt the TQ tube from the bell housing and be careful to not break the slave cylinder line by slowly separating the two and taking off the 2 slave cyl monting bolts then pulling the Tq tube/transmission/diff out of the car ----and this is a 2 man job. To access the bell housing bolts you need to have the intake manifold off.
The flywheel must be zero balanced as should the clutch. They dont come zero balanced and my Z06 pressure plate was the worst out of balance unit S&K speed had seen in 30yrs by their words.
C5 and C6 clutch swaps are evil... you have to pull the entire drive line. Then you run the risk that your oem clutch is purposfully off-balanced to bring your motor assembly within spec at final assembly.
If you install a properly zero balanced clutch assembly on a motor that had one purposfully off-balanced you'll get a driveline vibration. I did this... it was hell and I couldn't get any straght answers from GM. Early service manuals state to transfer balance weight from the old flywheel to the new one, and later manuals say do not transfer balance weights as clutches come as a balanced assembly, install as is.
The moral of the story? Always take your stock clutch assembly to a machine shop and have it checked.... they can tell you if it's out of balance, where, and by how much. You'll then have them match the new clutch to it. This is what I ended up doing to correct all my issues. It's also what all of the major tuners do when a car has balance issues.
Now if your doing a new motor that's been verified zero balanced then you obviously want a zero's clutch assembly.
I love my fidanza aluminum flywheel, the car screams. You will have more idle hunting in stop/go traffic as the car will rev down quicker. After my cam install it was really bad and took a great tuner to restore oem like drivability. Many will also say that you have to slip the clutch more and they suck for daily driving, but that has not been my experience at all.
Thinking about installing clutches and an aluminum fly wheel. Can anyone give info on an available assembly. Textrilla is not available. Whats next? Have the drive train removed and trying to decide what to do. Car has a proCharger on it. Installing rpm's stage 5 rear and trans. Got to address the clutch, but with what? Frustrated and at a standstill, tired of waiting to Textrilla.